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Watch out with those jacking points. Look up some threads on it for more information, but in short: they’re very easy to bend!

Doesn’t look so bad indeed. Nice job.

Mine felt like a cv joint being broken. A knocking sound and feel every revolution or so. Scared me the first time. Maybe try it on loose sand? If it does not knock, it’s the tyres.

Some tyres have this effect. I also had it with my R on its original rubber. At full lock it skips over its own threads. Now I have conti’s and they don’t have it.

Good luck with the drive home! Drive safely! Out of curiosity, how many miles has it done? New struts seems to suggest many miles?

I used sportcontact 7’s. In tests they came in on top.

The CD version is the same as the VM I think. The diagrams are not very helpful, but maybe print them out so you can better follow the lines/wires.

The full wiring diagrams are available in the official Peugeot manuals. There are VM’s (virtual machines) to be found on the web, which run windows 95 with a hacked version of it. All Peugeot cars up to 2013 are in it. Do you have experience with this sort of thing? There are (also illegal) CD’s...

It’s possible to charge this way , to my knowledge. The car itself charges the battery at >14V or so, so it’s no problem to do that yourself.

Gefeliciteerd! Enjoy the car!

Ok, then job well done!

The round hole is part of the engine noise circuit, to hear some more engine noise in the cabin. There is a pipe which connects to it, did you remove it or was it never there? I replaced the filter cover with one without the hole and removed the pipe. It seems to me this is a sort of air leak...

Happy birthday! Hope you had fun!

Thanks Eddie! This will surely help me and many others in the future!!

Bummer. As it failed so catastrophically, must be something apparent. No loose hoses?

Mine wouldn’t start sometimes. In the end it was a not well tightened negative battery lead.

I would suspect the module on top of the battery. And don’t rule out a loose ground connection to the battery. I had this, it would not start but otherwise behave normal. And as said, alternators other than PSA will not work well.

The band saw I used was also pretty wide (made for woodworking). The profile can be made with it. Some parts need the chisel, like the bottom of the slot for the jacking point. But the rest can be made with the band saw.

I used a drill and chisel. The rubber is very easy to cut. The circular hole on the back was the hardest. I drilled out the shape and then used a chisel.

I’ve got one with a 85mm low point indeed. When you remove the puck, it just about fits. So that’s why I cut the circular profile in the block, so the cup of the jack fits in (I removed the rubber puck and loose metal cup fro That also allows me to precisely position the load point. As you can...