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looking at it again, I see I saw the block in half. So my lifting block is 60mm wide, 80mm high at the highest point and 160mm long.

80mm is perfect for the width, no need to change. So just transfer your profile and use a bandsaw to cut it. The jacking point has a thicker middle part, so that’s the cutout you noticed. This way it fits precisely. The disc is just a standard trolley jack puck. I used it to determine how and...

I got them off Amazon I think. It’s these blocks you can buy to support cars with. Mine were from Kora (160x120x80mm).

I don’t have the drawings anymore, but using the procedure above it’s not so hard. Here’s a photo while I was doing this: There’s no metal in the rubber, just a big old block of rubber, attacked with a band saw, chisels and drill. And yes, the rear can safely be jacked up from the spring. This...

Nope, sorry. But very easily made. Just buy rubber blocks (I think I paid 30/piece) and use a band saw to cut out the profile. I made the rough profile with copper wire, transferred it to cardboard and in a few iterations I got a nice fit. Alternatively a thought about a wooden beam across the...

By the way, my garage has a four post lift. You just drive on it. They have a special hydraulic system which slides underneath and with which they select lifting point to raise the car. So the original points are not even used. They just use the front subframe and rear shocks. Maybe look for...

I also use a trolley jack on a metal plate for less friction and I take extra care to push the jack towards the car when jacking op. The lifting point also moves inward, so it’s best to have the jack follow.

I made this from two blocks of rubber. Fits snuggly under the car and prevents sideways motion. For the rear, just jack under the spring, you do not need the jacking points altogether

I agree about the chain lasting. I know of a few R’s which got their chain replaced at around 90k miles. Mine is just at 12k and I was worried about the age (10 years). But thinking about it and discussing with some knowledgeable people I came to the conclusion a metal chain does not age. Only...

I wouldn’t worry too much about the chain. At this mileage there will be many still on the original chain. It’s a plus if replaced, but if everything else is according to your liking, I wouldn’t walk away. Originality is also very important imho.

Maybe is is fixable with this stuff: LEATHER RENOVATION, SKAI | Sofolk

I have no dumps, but I can make one. I’ve always wanted to update the software and tweak it a little bit (adding the screen which shows oil temperature). But as I understood you need to keep the engine running, which puts me off a little bit… I have the Peugeot OBD tool, which allows to turn off...

Very cool. It’s better to centralize all knowledge of this indeed. I’m happy to send dumps. I’ve been wanting to update mine but never did so. Still on 2015 software I think. 😂 A script to change VIN might be very nice, but speaking for myself, raw is fine as well.

A BSI reset might also reset fault codes. But there are cheap OBD modules and free phone apps to reset codes.

The BSI reset is nothing more than letting all modules sleep (> 3 minutes) and then disconnecting the battery for several minutes. Easily donebonnet open, wait more than three minutes and then disconnect battery. Do not open or close doors in this time. There is also a procedure to relink the...

Then there must be a fault with the receiver (or connector/wires)? I swapped out all 8 sensors in my wheels last year myself. They were instantly recognized. No programming needed. Do you have access to someone with DiagBox or another generic OBD reader? Maybe that points to something. And...

TPMS starts sending when moving. So that’s why at cold start no warnings appear. The facelift RCZ is auto-learning, but I do not know about the older version. You might need to (re) assign the TPMS ids using specialist hardware.

Rear lights are not so expensive around here, and front lights are shared with the facelifted 308 T7. They are still scarce, but you can find them for a lot less than £2400.

Thanks. Headlights age by UV light I think, so that also won’t be a problem (car has lived inside for at least 90% of its life). But I’ll look out for shocks and exhaust items.

Which parts are anlmost unobtainable? I have an R with only 13k miles. I’ve stacked up on some parts like wheels, brake light, front discs and pads and some small other parts. Love to get your input, so I can be on the lookout for these parts.