What's new
Peugeot RCZ Forum

Register a free account today to become a member. It's free! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, connect with other members through your own private inbox and take part in competitions!

Jacking Points

rorymonsta

New Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2023
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
New Zealand
Once you have done your one could you post your plan with dimensions etc. I've got one bent jacking point and want to preserve the others, I'm sure many others will be interested too
 

JvdBosch

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
95
Reaction score
5
Points
8
Location
Eindhoven
Ok, thanks for your help. I'll update when I've made my blocks. At least they should save those pesky jacking points from getting damaged again!
Also....I can see how you can cut out the shape with a band saw, but how did you cut out the vertical clearance 'slot' for the wider part of the jacking post, i.e. dremel, chisel?
I used a drill and chisel. The rubber is very easy to cut. The circular hole on the back was the hardest. I drilled out the shape and then used a chisel.
 

KMG

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2022
Messages
82
Reaction score
9
Points
8
Location
Groby, Leicestershire
I’ve got one with a 85mm low point indeed. When you remove the puck, it just about fits. So that’s why I cut the circular profile in the block, so the cup of the jack fits in (I removed the rubber puck and loose metal cup fro That also allows me to precisely position the load point. As you can see, the circle is not exactly in the middle of the lifting slot, but a bit inward. So the block has less chance of rotating. I think I’d even put it a few mm more inwards now.

Also, I put a few mm thick metal plate below the jack for easy rolling, so that raises it even more. All in all, with a +-85mm low profile jack you can make it work. Maybe you can make the block less high, but I wanted to keep as much rubber under the car as possible. You can see the jack connected to the block in the photo above.

I’ll try to make some more pictures when I switch back to summer tires.
I have another question...I think you said you used a band saw to cut out the profiles. Would this be a band saw with a wide blade? (in my case, we're talking a band saw in the machine shop with a blade an inch wide). I was thinking that the block would have to be 'maneuvered' around, like when actually cutting a jigsaw, using a Jig-Saw, but that isn't possible on a band saw. Looking at the block, there are really only straight lines with a slight curve on the upper inner part, (although that might not be a curve, but striaght lines at an angle). Can I assume that you used an actual band saw to cut the straight profile lines and then finish off with a chisel or similar? We have a milling machine but the operative is a bit loath to do what is quite a complicated job as a 'foreigner'. Thanks for your help...I'm in the planning stage!
 
Last edited:

JvdBosch

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
95
Reaction score
5
Points
8
Location
Eindhoven
The band saw I used was also pretty wide (made for woodworking). The profile can be made with it. Some parts need the chisel, like the bottom of the slot for the jacking point. But the rest can be made with the band saw.
 
Top