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From memory. Bear in mind it's about 3 years ago..
Unclip wiring, lift up the locking lever thing, (or it might be locking thing first which also holds the wiring plug on) pull upwards. No bolts, or screws as I recall.
I may have missed something but I don't think so.
Coil packs are cheap and easy.
Literally a 2 minute job.
Hopefully it is that, as a failing high pressure fuel pump can give cylinder 1 misfire codes..
Probably just be less comfortable. I think the 18s are 235 45, whereas 19s are 235 40.
So same contact patch, just less sidewall. Stock tyre sizes obviously.
Probably more expensive tyres too.
From what I recall the 200 is quite a lot different than the 156.
Different gear ratios, brakes, anti roll bars. Smaller steering wheel, shorter gear lever. A different pcv system maybe.
That's what I remember, there could be more differences.
I'm usually wary of cheap cars. I'd rather spend more on a car from a dealer with warranty.
Especially with a car that could potentially cost a significant sum in repairs.
My RCZ had its timing gear replaced at the cheapest main dealer locally, and that was over £1000.
Don't let me put you off...
Jacking points are made of papier mache.
Start it from cold if possible, saves you discovering it needs its timing gear changing the day after buying it. If it clatters - budget up to a grand if you buy privately and it needs doing. Ideally buy from a dealer with a warranty.
Another favourite...
If I were buying that I'd want the brakes doing before I bought it.
I haven't seen the advert but I doubt it says anywhere "cheap because the front brakes cost a boat load to do"
So they either know the job costs a lot and if you mention it they'll say "that's why it's cheap", or they don't know.
Just make sure they don't "refurbish" them in a single colour.
I had 19" diamond cut wheels done once, it wasn't cheap. Near on £400. So going on that they must have made a decent margin on it if they're also changing the tyres.