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Amber, please excuse if I repeat myself but this sounds like a cheap excuse. What kind of issues with the discs on the R is your dealer referring to? Exactly what? There are no issues with those Alcon discs at all. The only issue existing (and you need to check if that relates to your car...

unless your car was sitting in standing water for those 10 months I don't see any reasons why brakes shall be replaced due to rust. what an excuse. go on some spirited drive and let those brakes work! this will sort it.

Thank you very much for the upload! I see the intake pressure there, very good. I will give it a try on my R. Do you use any specific OBD dongle or any blutooth will do? What app is that? :greetings-wavingblue:

don't you forget to polish that brake disc :D

Very lovely picture! Welcome to the R pack! :greetings-wavingblue: Have always room to step hard on that throttle :beer:

Ha, ha, be your hero, I like that :greetings-wavingblue: I will push to meet your expectations :thumbup: I plan to keep the R for like 3 to max 4 years. During this period I will put about 100-120.000 miles on it (currently I average at about 32k a year). Warranty runs out after 2 years. So...

Absolutely. I have been talking to a serious tuning company running RCZs in the GT series and they told me, you can push the R engine up to 310bhp without issues. But going beyond 300bhp requires the exhaust system (after downpipe) to be modified. Thus what we see here on that Bimota version.

I like it! Mainly because it is a reworked version of the standard 208 GTi. Reworked by the same guys who put their hands on my RCZ R. And the result is more than remarkable, especially when you compare an RCZ 200THP with the RCZ R. Not only the power but the handling of the car, the suspension...

Cheers. Those GYs have an 92 load index on my R. According to COC papers I can ride as low as 89 load index on the R. I agree with you that most of the options at 235/40/19 are 96 load index. Those Mich Sport Cup 2 are available on 96 only.

good choice. Those Goodyears work fine on the R. They have a very predictable behavior, especially in wet. And you can drive them off, down to 2mm and they still work fine in wet. In dry they tend to lightly understeer when you push them really hard. We are talking really hard here. And they...

a nightly winter shot

Sure, it isn't a magic toy :) It only reads what the CANBUS monitors. I already have hooked it up to do some data read outs. Works fine but I do miss few data read outs, like intake air temperature or the turbo boost pressure. I hope I can apply those standard xcodes from CANSF to get to those...

hi guys, I'm totally with you. But as I own this device since years I want to continue to use it. Do not see a reason to buy another OBD plug-in device, hook up to the phone (which I need to do calls instead to play around while driving :) and start from scratch. Yes, that scangauge is no magic...

Yes, part of the scangauge's functionality is covered by this app too. But the scangauge digs deeper with its xcodes. You program those codes into the device and then it monitors the car's ECU for those car-specific codes which give "hidden" information back, like boost pressure and many more...

hi guys, does someone happen to use the Scangauge device on their RCZ? I mean this one: http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge-commands/ I'm especially looking for some hidden Xgauge codes you can program into that device. I've been doing it on my previous cars and often you get some...

sounds interesting. Will have a look into it on my R this weekend. The R already has a quite roarty sound but a bit more of it wont hurt 8-)

THAT did say my dealer to me by the time he handed over the car keys. Together with the print out for the 12.5k service interval. But then we went back and forth with the service guys. Finally they found the service notice in the system and agreed to the 12.5k service (actually, it was 13k)

hi big blue, I totally agree with you. They'd have sorted it from the start. The thing is, those first batch pads worked very good on the race track (or when the car was driven in a race-track-equal mode, which means very hard and short braking periods with full force) but they did not work well...

In my case, there was a side note visible on the pug's service workstation. But the dealer was not keen to hand out anything to me. And towards that post here about cheap pads on the R. To the contrary, the R was equipped with very expensive pads within the first charge of R's. Just google...

I can confirm that. On my R there were wrong pads causing overheating and pad-to-disc transfer. Additionally the pads had extensive wear-off. By the time I picked my R up at the dealer it had some Performance Friction pads on it. Now pug has switched to Ferodo DS Performance pads on the R...