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If you have a read through the threads, there are one or two things to look out for in all variants. But of all the RCZ’s available, I would say the diesel is probably the most reliable, so I don’t think you will go far wrong there :eusa-think:
I have only ever tried to replace 1 headlamp bulb.
It was in my Toyota Corolla Saloon. It was immediately in front of the battery, with just about enough room to slide a flat hand between the battery & headlamp.
There was a fiddly spring clip holding the bulb holder in place.
Half way though...
It really was very intermittent, and just a noise, no judder or smell or slipping, nothing. I was quite surprised when they decided to replace the entire clutch assembly, but as it wasn’t costing me anything who was I to argue.
Your third problem - this has been reported a few times on here, including by myself.
I had my clutch assembly replaced under extended warranty as they decided that it was the dmf (dual mass flywheel) that was causing the issue.
I had a similar noise to your description with no other symptoms...
Well you gave it a go. I think the sporty nature of the RCZ makes it difficult to get a quiet smooth ride. The bigger the wheels the worse the problem.
I have found my Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S tyres are quieter than the original contis. But I don’t really notice any road noise except on certain...
:greetings-wavingblue: Welcome :text-welcomewave:
Have a search through the forum, you will find many posts regarding this.
Btw. We do like to see pics on here........
Check this out ..... viewtopic.php?f=30&t=10320
:greetings-wavingblue: Welcome :text-welcomewave:
You have chosen a great car there, get ready for admiring glances (and some jealous ones) everywhere you go. :eusa-think:
You might need to get some pain killers in too, cos your neck is going to ache from all the looking back you will do...
It doesn’t sound like your system is looking in the correct place, if you have the correct files on your usb stick.
Is there a way on your system to tell it where to look for the updated files?
The wheel bearings allow the wheel to rotate smoothly, so if you have a wheel bearing that is dying, it would make sense that it would impede the rotation of the wheel. That in turn would make sense that it would cause the car to pull towards the side that is not rotating smoothly.
Turning...
You say the noise is consistent with the rotation of the wheels, just thought, maybe a wheel bearing going off?
I had wheel bearing issues with a Peugeot 405 some years ago, it was a “grating” type noise. The 405 was known for it apparently.
I’m sure they will think of all the things it could...
Tbh it could me a multitude of things. The obvious ones I think you have already covered. Wheel alignment is top of the list, followed by tyre issues.
Then you have steering rack, suspension, front struts/mounts, brakes, the list goes on.
The obvious thing would be if they can find anything...
In that case, I would put the pressures back to the correct ones, and ask them to get to the bottom of the issue while they have it in the garage.
The unknown cause could well be far more dangerous than a few psi missing from your tyres.
When I was in the Fire Service, it was the responsibility of the driver (usually that was me) to check the Fire Engine tyres, so they were checked twice daily, once by each change of shift.
If the tyres were within 3 psi of the correct pressure, we didn’t have to blow them up, so if it’s good...
I would just go 2.6 left and 2.2 right. That’s around 3 psi up and down, so a 6 psi differential over the front axle. Try that and see if it makes any difference. If not you could go a bit more and try it, but I wouldn’t go any more than your original suggestion as that’s @ 5 psi above and below...