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Slight Turbo Oil Leak

tm2204

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Noticed a small oil leak around one of the Turbo pipes earlier.. 1.6 THP (156)

Turbo Oil Leak 01 (edit).jpg

Above is the location of the pipe & weepy leak.


Turbo Oil Leak 02 (edit).jpg

Close up of the pipe, fitting and the leak.

It's not dripping any oil just a small weepy leak at this point.

Any ideas or suggestions? πŸ‘
 

Pedro

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Replace it as that will get worse they are known for leaking & usually its the one from the block which is more prone to failure if you intend keeping the car fit the new type Flexi pipe if available they last longer
good luck with that one πŸ‘
 

tm2204

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Replace it as that will get worse they are known for leaking & usually its the one from the block which is more prone to failure if you intend keeping the car fit the new type Flexi pipe if available they last longer
good luck with that one πŸ‘

Cheers for the reply Pedro. Suspected it might be a replacement pipe rather than a simple tightening of a bolt/nut πŸ™ Any idea of the part number I should be looking to order? With servicebox no longer available to me it's a bugger trying to source part numbers for 'non-standard' parts 😬 Also is this 'flexi pipe' a newer and better replacement part? Keeping the car so I'll fit the best part πŸ‘
 

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tm2204

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Just had another look and the eBay listing states it's for an EP6CDT engine, which is my engine, so looks like this is the part alright 😁

eBay can be very hit & miss often incorrectly tagging correct parts for my RCZ 😀
 
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tm2204

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Might be able to do it on ramps but it wont be easy

Actually perhaps its not. Take a look at this one

i am sure you can get cheaper that this though

That part looks the same except it has some of the fittings already installed just leaving the banjo's to connect up.. I'm happy with the other listing you posted as it correctly specifies my engine type. Having said that I will check my reg/VIN with he eBay seller πŸ‘

I'll post a thread here if I manage to get this done & survive to tell the tale... πŸ˜‚
 

tm2204

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After having another look at the listings I see now the second pipe you listed has one elbow & one straight through connection whereas the first listing has two elbow connections so they are different πŸ™ I'll check with the eBay seller. Knowing my luck it's the more expensive one I'll need 😀
 

Goatz

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There are a few videos on youtube of people doing this job on a Mini. Its the same engine but the mini has much less space to work with so the front of the car has to come off or is brought forward a bit

this guy takes the engine out, its helpful to see where everything is

this guy doesnt
 

tm2204

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Love Eric The Car Guy.... been watching him for years 😁
 

Pedro

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i beleive this is the one:


p.s. I dont think you can do this job without a car lift.
I did one on a 207cc GT on 2 car jacks as you need the height as I had to take the Cat off & that was a pig of a job but it was the inner pipe one going the other side of the Turbo that blew the seals which went down to the block yours appears to be on the outside of the Cat if your handy on the spanners you can do it its not rocket science ;)
 

Goatz

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fyi - i would expect this job to cost in the region of Β£300 at a car mechanic
 

tm2204

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i beleive this is the one:


p.s. I dont think you can do this job without a car lift.

Ok, in speaking to the supplier I have finally determined this is indeed the correct part. Part ordered :)πŸ‘

I will make a complete 'How To' step by step guide when I attempt this repair and upload to the forum... hopefully helping anybody else needing to do this repair which appears to be a common fail for the THP RCZ :(
 

tm2204

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An update on this:

The oil leak is NOT where I indicated in my pictures at the beginning of this thread. The leak is actually on the input oil feed line (at the banjo fitting) under the mini heat shield at the top of the photo. It's the same place everyone gets this leak, the oil was just weeping onto the bottom heat shield & the oil return line hence I thought the leak was here (as indicated on the original photo) πŸ‘

Have the part but I'm waiting on my car ramps to arrive so I can get this done. The 2 videos Goatz posted above will be very helpful in doing this job. I'm lucky in that my leak is small (for now) and not bad like others :eek:

For reference the oil feed line banjo bolts are torqued to 30 Nm/22 ft-lb

I'll make a 'How To' when I do this job πŸ‘:)
 

tm2204

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Ok.... got this done today 😁 Delighted πŸ‘

Said I would do a mini 'How To' when I completed the job so here goes....

NB:: Disconnect the battery before you start. The bottom heat shield passes very close to the alternator permanent positive feed and if it touches off it while being removed... well, that would not be a good day :(



I found this the best YouTube video to watch (thanks Goatz). The Mini R56 has some differences to this job than the RCZ but it's basically the same process and this guy explains it very well πŸ‘


IMG_20200624_144353.jpg

Didn't go for the car ramps in the end... decided on this Halfords low-profile jack, perfect for going under the RCZ. This combined with my 3-tonne Halfords ratcheting axle stands got the car plenty high up to do this job. I have a creeper as well so sliding underneath is a breeze 😁


IMG_20200624_144401.jpg

The correct way to jack up an RCZ (thanks Tia North). I positioned my ratcheting axle stands further forward... you can see them in the background πŸ‘ Unfortunately the previous owner was not so careful jacking up my (mine now) car and bent the lifting points both nearside front & offside front 😠 , you can see it in the photo. Easy enough to bend back but I won't be lifting the car off these... ever πŸ˜‚ Was actually my first time to lift the car off the ground today :)


IMG_20200624_144442.jpg

You can see where I positioned my axle stands clearly here. Also I sprayed some WD-40 on both O2 sensors and the CAT exhaust clamp to prepare them to be cracked open.


IMG_20200624_144456.jpg

You can see here the RCZ has a heat shield sitting ontop of the main top turbo heat shield. It blocks access to the 3 10mm bolts so it has to come off.


IMG_20200624_144622.jpg

To get access to the heat shield you don't need to take this pipe off but you do need to loosen it (remove the 2 * 10mm bolts on the top) and break loose the small pipe on the right hand side of the photo. You can then bend it back out of the way giving access to the heat shield and the main top turbo heat shield. Both are connected with 10mm bolts (2 for top heat shield & 5 for main top turbo heat shield).


IMG_20200624_151939.jpg
IMG_20200624_151947.jpg

Took out the upstream O2 sensor and disconnected it's electrical connector. Look at the state of this O2 sensor :eek: Cleaned with Carb Cleaner... πŸ‘



IMG_20200624_144502.jpg

My leaking turbo side oil feed line connection. The gasket on the inside of the rear connector just packs in and causes the line to leak... most deffo not fit for purpose & I fitted the upgraded crimped & stainless steel flexi connector as the replacement πŸ‘


IMG_20200624_153732.jpg

The main top turbo heat shield removed πŸ‘


IMG_20200624_153743.jpg

With the main top turbo heat shield removed you can now see where the CAT is bolted to the exhaust side of the turbo. It's connected via 3 nuts/studs. Spray lots of WD-40 on all 3 and leave for a while. These nuts/studs can be difficult to crack open & remove so be patient. Sometimes the nut will come off, sometimes the whole stud with the nut attached. It doesn't matter. The CAT is bolted to 2 brackets underneath the car so you'll have to remove these and break open the exhaust clamp that clamps the CAT to the flexi on the exhaust πŸ‘


OK... I can only attach 10 files at a time so I'll continue next post πŸ‘
 
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tm2204

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IMG_20200624_161444.jpg

The bottom heat shield has 4 10mm bolts (2 each side)... you can see the position of the bolts in the photo. It is also connected by 2 brackets at the bottom that also support the CAT at the bottom. All these are removed from under the car.


IMG_20200624_181511.jpg

OK this picture is taken from under the car looking up... it shows the metal 'arm' that connects to the middle of the back/rear heat shield (the last one you need to take off). Showing this because that bolt top middle that is loosened to allow the metal 'arm' to swing freely and come away from the back heat shield was frozen/welded solid for me :eek:😁 Spent ages trying from top & bottom to break this loose to no avail & I even slightly stripped it trying :eek: 😠 Could not get my propane torch to it either as there was so much oil & WD-40 around the area it just flamed right up :eek::eek: Thought this was gonna be a show stopper as its too tight a space to get my angle grinder in there to cut it off. However I was able to pull on the metal 'arm' and pull it away enough to allow the back heat shield to fall away once the 2 10mm bolts up top securing it were removed πŸ˜…πŸ˜…πŸ˜πŸ˜


IMG_20200624_225819.jpg

Finally... the back heat shield removed from the car πŸ‘


IMG_20200624_181820.jpg

Some parts drying in the sun. From left to right, old banjo bolts, cleaned upstream O2 sensor, mini heat shield that goes over the banjo turbo side & the heat shield that sits above the main top turbo heat shieldπŸ‘


IMG_20200624_182645.jpg

All that work to remove one very badly designed turbo oil feed line πŸ˜ πŸ‘ The banjo on the turbo side was very loose, spun easily and moved left to right along the pipe... the o-ring/gasket totally shot, leaking oil and ready to leak a lot more if it hadn't been replaced 😁


IMG_20200624_185734.jpg
IMG_20200624_185754.jpg

The new & improved turbo oil feed line connected to both the turbo and engine block sides. The oil flow restrictor goes turbo side (the connector with the smaller hole πŸ‘).

And that's it.... put everything back together in reverse making sure you don't forget to re-connect both the O2 electrical connectors and route the wiring away from any source of heat (turbo, heat shields, etc:). Re-connect the battery :)

I hope this guide will be of some help to others who need to complete this turbo oil feed line replacement that many/most will face at some point in their RCZ ownership. Take your time, watch the video a few times and you will get it done. Once again don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start πŸ‘
 

Goatz

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FYI, my oil leak returned recently but not as much as before.
I have the oil filter and cooler gaskets replaced along with the feeder pipes.
I am at the garage now and am being told it is the vacuum pump gasket this time....
 

tm2204

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FYI, my oil leak returned recently but not as much as before.
I have the oil filter and cooler gaskets replaced along with the feeder pipes.
I am at the garage now and am being told it is the vacuum pump gasket this time....

If its the vac pump gasket should be an easy fix πŸ˜ƒπŸ‘πŸΌ
 
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