Ok.... got this done today
Delighted
Said I would do a mini 'How To' when I completed the job so here goes....
NB:: Disconnect the battery before you start. The bottom heat shield passes very close to the alternator permanent positive feed and if it touches off it while being removed... well, that would not be a good day
I found this the best YouTube video to watch (thanks Goatz). The Mini R56 has some differences to this job than the RCZ but it's basically the same process and this guy explains it very well
Didn't go for the car ramps in the end... decided on this Halfords low-profile jack, perfect for going under the RCZ. This combined with my 3-tonne Halfords ratcheting axle stands got the car plenty high up to do this job. I have a creeper as well so sliding underneath is a breeze
The correct way to jack up an RCZ (thanks Tia North). I positioned my ratcheting axle stands further forward... you can see them in the background
Unfortunately the previous owner was not so careful jacking up my (mine now) car and bent the lifting points both nearside front & offside front
, you can see it in the photo. Easy enough to bend back but I won't be lifting the car off these... ever
Was actually my first time to lift the car off the ground today
You can see where I positioned my axle stands clearly here. Also I sprayed some WD-40 on both O2 sensors and the CAT exhaust clamp to prepare them to be cracked open.
You can see here the RCZ has a heat shield sitting ontop of the main top turbo heat shield. It blocks access to the 3 10mm bolts so it has to come off.
To get access to the heat shield you don't need to take this pipe off but you do need to loosen it (remove the 2 * 10mm bolts on the top) and break loose the small pipe on the right hand side of the photo. You can then bend it back out of the way giving access to the heat shield and the main top turbo heat shield. Both are connected with 10mm bolts (2 for top heat shield & 5 for main top turbo heat shield).
Took out the upstream O2 sensor and disconnected it's electrical connector. Look at the state of this O2 sensor
Cleaned with Carb Cleaner...
My leaking turbo side oil feed line connection. The gasket on the inside of the rear connector just packs in and causes the line to leak... most deffo not fit for purpose & I fitted the upgraded crimped & stainless steel flexi connector as the replacement
The main top turbo heat shield removed
With the main top turbo heat shield removed you can now see where the CAT is bolted to the exhaust side of the turbo. It's connected via 3 nuts/studs. Spray lots of WD-40 on all 3 and leave for a while. These nuts/studs can be difficult to crack open & remove so be patient. Sometimes the nut will come off, sometimes the whole stud with the nut attached. It doesn't matter. The CAT is bolted to 2 brackets underneath the car so you'll have to remove these and break open the exhaust clamp that clamps the CAT to the flexi on the exhaust
OK... I can only attach 10 files at a time so I'll continue next post