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Motor oil

K50 AOS

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K50 AOS

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I'm a new owner myself and already noticed it likes to burn the oil when idling or start stop journeys it's a bad mix of components I hear and a pretty established problem Defos run the total 0/30 or magnatec stop start 0/30 to keep it safer through the winter months.
 
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K50 AOS

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I'm a new owner myself and already noticed it likes to burn the oil when idling or start stop journeys it's a bad mix of components I hear and a pretty established problem Defos run the total 0/30 or magnatec stop start 0/30 to keep it safer through the winter months.
And get the PCV valve checked and any gaskets if there is evidence of oil I am quite lucky mine is still under warranty so will be defo looking into this before it runs out next month after noticing my air filter was pretty matted imho it's being replaced for a K&N 33-2936 panel filter as we speak .
 

rcz200it

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I tried both 0-30 and 5-30 total from the dealer, the first one uses slightly less fuel but uses more oil, the second slightly more fuel from cold for short journeys but uses less oil
 

Pedro

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Usual suspects for burning oil in these engines are the wrong grade of oil or Carbon build up not allowing the valves to seal off properly I'm running the Quartz Ineo 5w.30 & at 46.356 Mls its not using a drop but the Oil-filter come out at a max mileage of 3.500 & I'm on the original chain but the tensioner was deceased with the death rattle around 35.000 ish
 

Silverbullit

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Howdy mates, Sweden here - new to the forum.
Know NOTHING bout cars cept need to get me an RCZ!
A few days it came true 😁

Oil is BLACK, needs changing, thus I found my way here to ask a lot smarter mates advice. (=you)

Northern parts of Sweden can get very cold (coldest I personally been outside in was -57°C, however thats the record, most winters doesnt drop below -34°C to -36°C'ish. )
So the 0w30 is a no brainer since its hard to start a car with thick 5w30 also putting a lot of strain on engines fragile from the sub zero horrors. I have enough brains not to rattle the car keys below -26°C'ish though. 🤯

Could you give me any advice Id sure appreciate your expertize.
What I got availible and locally recommended are these;

Mobil 3000 formula P 0w30Castrol Magnatec STOP-START 0W-30 C2Total Quartz Ineo First 0W-30
Also they highly recommended something called,
MPM 0W-30 Premium Synthetic PC

Also they told me I need to use "engine wash", hope I translate this correctly?, an additive, run engine 10 mins idle, un-cork it and pour the old hot oil out, then fill the most expensive above back up again.

So I turn to you, more sensible car experts, for advice which oil option and that additive engine wash thing?

Thanks for being here and all or any advice you have for me 🙂

May the force be with you mates!
/Silverbullit
 

Pedro

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I would not use the Engine flush as it contains chemicals that can damage the oil seals engine bearings & turbo's its best to drain the oil when the engine is warm & keep changing the oil more often as modern oils contain detergents that clean as they lubricate they internals
 

Silverbullit

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I would not use the Engine flush as it contains chemicals that can damage the oil seals engine bearings & turbo's its best to drain the oil when the engine is warm & keep changing the oil more often as modern oils contain detergents that clean as they lubricate they internals
Thenks Plasma for your guidance, I will skip the engine flush!

Now I just gotta figure out what brand of oil to get 😃
 

neilgsxr69

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Thenks Plasma for your guidance, I will skip the engine flush!

Now I just gotta figure out what brand of oil to get 😃
Well Peugeot do recommend the Total ineo first that’s all mines ever had in almost 9 years 👍
 

NF7

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Well Peugeot do recommend the Total ineo first that’s all mines ever had in almost 9 years 👍
Mine has Opel Dexos 2 5W-30. Cheap and very good, recommended by BMW, Merc and Mini specialists (that is what they use when servicing their own cars).
 

Pedro

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Crazy world we live in I reckon all the car makers are taking a bung to endorse all different makes of oils question is which ones last the distance between services?
 
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NF7

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Crazy world we live in I reckon all the car makers are taking a bung to endorse all different makes of oils question is which ones last the distance between services?
Most of oils will be okay well over the regular service distances (unless you’re making 30.000 kilometres per year).
 

Pedro

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Mines out at 3.500-4000 Klm & my engine loves fresh oil 😆
 
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RCZ-R

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Howdy mates, Sweden here - new to the forum.
Know NOTHING bout cars cept need to get me an RCZ!
A few days it came true 😁

Oil is BLACK, needs changing, thus I found my way here to ask a lot smarter mates advice. (=you)

Northern parts of Sweden can get very cold (coldest I personally been outside in was -57°C, however thats the record, most winters doesnt drop below -34°C to -36°C'ish. )
So the 0w30 is a no brainer since its hard to start a car with thick 5w30 also putting a lot of strain on engines fragile from the sub zero horrors. I have enough brains not to rattle the car keys below -26°C'ish though. 🤯

Could you give me any advice Id sure appreciate your expertize.
What I got availible and locally recommended are these;

Mobil 3000 formula P 0w30Castrol Magnatec STOP-START 0W-30 C2Total Quartz Ineo First 0W-30
Also they highly recommended something called,
MPM 0W-30 Premium Synthetic PC

Also they told me I need to use "engine wash", hope I translate this correctly?, an additive, run engine 10 mins idle, un-cork it and pour the old hot oil out, then fill the most expensive above back up again.

So I turn to you, more sensible car experts, for advice which oil option and that additive engine wash thing?

Thanks for being here and all or any advice you have for me 🙂

May the force be with you mates!
/Silverbullit
Cheers to Sweden!
Don't you guys up there have those electric heaters built into the engine's cooler which you plug into the wall socket during night time? Keeps the coolant warm and thus easies up the start up in very low temps.
 

Pedro

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A guy who worked with us used to spend time working up the far north of Scotland & during the really cold snaps used to put a small heater under the sump to warm the oil up!:oops:
 

LeeS69

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With regards to oil viscosity here’s a little informative nugget 😄


Dragging this up from beyond the grave, but it's not informative at all, it doesn't state the temp, and it looks like it's Russian, so could be -50 dec C!!!! Show me the other "informative nugget" where it's + 50 and we can watch the 0-30 flop out and splash all over the table while the other oils flow.... :p:D
 

RCZ-R

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I wouldn't worry so much about the viscosity of 0W30 but about the fact of doing regular oil changes on the RCZ's engine. Like Pedro mentioned here, change the oil more frequently as advised in the service bulletin. THIS is the key to less issues with RCZ's engine. And if it "drinks" some oil in-between, keep it at MAX all the time.
I did that and at the same time pushed the R engine to its limits all the time. And I did it on the 0W30 "tea" as some of you refer to it. Invest your money in regular oil changes and save yourself from some worries in the future.
 

Pedro

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We went to Cologne many years ago for a family holiday & the Autobahns are something else when it comes to motorways
 
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