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Is it safe to change the Cam Chain Tensioner?

JvdBosch

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Where did you guys get the service manual from? Anybody able to share it? (I have an R, but many other things are the similar between models of course)
 

lfe

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There is no such procedure in the Peugeot manuals.

There is a procedure for changing the timing chain, which is long and requires special tools, making it a job that is only within the reach of professional workshops.

Those of us who have changed only the tensioner did so at our own risk.
 

JvdBosch

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Ok, thanks. So things like the torque value for the tensioner are in the procedure for the entire chain replacement? My R also had a little rough first seconds after cold start, so I thought to maybe change the tensioner, being so cheap.
 

lfe

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Torques are not in the procedure, I did not use a torque wrench
 

lfe

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I found it, 65Nm
 

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inaki_

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Hello, I have been reading very carefully this thread in the background, until I achieved to replace yesterday the chain tensioner. I got mine in Autodoc (Ridex 571T0031).
I was expecting hard access so I was not surprised to see how difficult was to especially bend the pipe behind engine.
But what I was not expecting was it to be SO HARD to put the new tensioner in place... I needed to do such big force to push it inside so the threads could engage! it took me a while until I could do it... (almost desperate).

I could not use my torque wrench as too big, so I tightened it by hand (as hard as I could).
Then all back and car running fine, not sure I solved the issue I had (friction noise when lifting gas) but clearly is less than before.

In january I replaced the rocket cover and chain looked in good shape and tensioned.

PS: first post here, I have been struggling to register... never receiving emails to activate account, so finally did registration using Microsoft and worked.
 

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inaki_

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Hello all, small update from me. I have driven around 200 miles since replacing the chain tensioner, and I can observe a small leak starting between the chain tensioner head and the washer... I'm quite disappointed and will try to torque it up to see if it's a torque issue (I did it by hand, but as strongly as I could... so I believe was more than 65Nm)...
Did others have similar experiences?
Thank you.

Regards

PS: apart from this, the friction noise when lifting gas disappeared...
 

lfe

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On top of the engine, above the tensioner, there is a lifting eye, which you can use to pry with a bar and the wrench and tighten much more hard.

But not excessively either, the engine block is aluminum.
 

inaki_

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Hello all, sorry to keep updating this. I ordered a 27mm spanner but was way too big and couldn't tighten yesterday it... I'll need to find a way to remove again the admission pipe and tighten it properly, will try next weekend. I confirmed yesterday that it continues to leak between bolt head and washer.
 

EddieJ

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Hello all, sorry to keep updating this. I ordered a 27mm spanner but was way too big and couldn't tighten yesterday it... I'll need to find a way to remove again the admission pipe and tighten it properly, will try next weekend. I confirmed yesterday that it continues to leak between bolt head and washer.
You might be better with a socket and a torque wrench, i will check a bulletin I have in the garage later to confirm but I recall 80/90Nm. Original TSB said 60Nm, but that was raised as the early prince engines leaked at the aluminium washer your leaking at after a handful of heat cycles.
In conjunction with your torque wrench a swivel adaptor can be used or alternatively remove the wipers and plastic scuttle trim to allow access, but guessing with a big spanner could mislead you as to what ‘tight’ is and risk breaking something Or not being tight enough.

Take care in the meantime.
 

inaki_

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Today I had the chance to take a look, I cleaned and tightened a little bit (not possible to use the torque wrench...), I used endoscope to take some pictures for future reference...

Let's see!

Thanks for your replies.
 

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