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Is it safe to change the Cam Chain Tensioner?

MJZ

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Is it safe to change the Cam Chain Tensioner?

Hi, I’m new to this forum and to the RCZ…having made a purchase in February this year…a really nice red automatic with Sat Nav and only 21000 miles on the clock. Please read on….

I know this has been done to death on this forum and the web as a whole. But the clarification of this subject is far from concise…with so many grey areas. Although this appears to be a major issue with this engine, both in the RCZ and the BMW Mini Cooper, there are no videos or Annotated dialogue describing how to change the Tensioner. This is either because its a very simple procedure and not worth going into any detail or because its a procedure that should not be done without changing the whole cam chain assembly.

I’ve asked my Peugeot dealer here in France, if they would do the job but they wont do it without pulling half the engine apart and checking/renewing the complete cam chain assembly. This is because they may be held responsible and liable if it results in any later damage to the engine. Even an independent English mechanic would not do it, for the same reason, although he did say it could be done in the UK.

So, how safe is it to change the tensioner? All those that have stated they have done it on this forum, have not mentioned its a dodgy procedure. Others who have read the posts don't say its a dodgy procedure! So, is there anything wrong with just changing the tensioner? What can go wrong? You cant do any harm taking it out, can you? And replacing it, only puts it back where it came from! It can only come out in one way and go back in one way! It doesn't disturb anything inside the engine! The tip of the tensioner is resting on the cam chain guide, how can it be removed and replaced and cause damage?

My car has only done 22,000 miles and probably has the original tensioner and chain…there’s no record its been changed and rightly so given the milage. Its a 2014 car and has the later tensioner, with the dimple in the centre. The cam chain can not possibly be faulty, given the milage and the fact that it starts and drives faultlessly. On a few occasions now, when it has stood for a week, it sometimes has the death rattle, for just 20 to 30 seconds and then stops. Its obviously the tensioner thats at fault. It has new oil and filter.

I would like to change the tensioner…some on this forum have done this but working from the top of the engine. But I'm sure this would be much easier from below. If only I could get the car up high enough to stand under it…but i cant, so its wheel ramps and a trolley to get under it. Before I try this…and video the procedure for others…is it safe to do so?

Is it safe to change the tensioner? What can go wrong? If there are any competent knowledgable mechanics engineers out there who can offer their experienced know how, please let me and others know. Also, all those that have changed it, did you have any problems. Some say they change it regularly to avoid the dreaded death rattle, have you had any problems? It would be good to have a succinct conclusive place to go/view that puts this issue to bed.

I really hope you respond….
 

Pedro

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The timing chain should be in serviceable condition on that mileage its mostly the tensioner that fails due to the piston having suffering from oil problems & seal issues there are numerous posts on here about changing them its a fairly straight forward job
 

MJZ

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The timing chain should be in serviceable condition on that mileage its mostly the tensioner that fails due to the piston having suffering from oil problems & seal issues there are numerous posts on here about changing them its a fairly straight forward job
Yes Pedro…many posts on here about this issue but no concise descriptive posts about how to change them….I mean a fools guide…what issues did they encounter whilst changing them and if any issues developed following the replacement…tips/hints of their experience…..it would be good to have this feedback in one place….having peoples experiences posted all over the place makes for difficult assessment….its such a big issue with this car, it should have its on Thread…so please guys, if you’ve done it tell us about your experience and how you did it….it would be so helpful….
 

Pedro

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Yes Pedro…many posts on here about this issue but no concise descriptive posts about how to change them….I mean a fools guide…what issues did they encounter whilst changing them and if any issues developed following the replacement…tips/hints of their experience…..it would be good to have this feedback in one place….having peoples experiences posted all over the place makes for difficult assessment….its such a big issue with this car, it should have its on Thread…so please guys, if you’ve done it tell us about your experience and how you did it….it would be so helpful….
Purchase a decent emanual online & it will tell you everything you need to know But as Marmite said you take off the pipework & the tensioner is at the back of the head on the L?H/side looking into the engine if my memory is correct I posted diagrams of where it actually is & what tools to use to remove it
 

MJZ

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Purchase a decent emanual online & it will tell you everything you need to know But as Marmite said you take off the pipework & the tensioner is at the back of the head on the L?H/side looking into the engine if my memory is correct I posted diagrams of where it actually is & what tools to use to remove it
Thanks Pedro…do you have a link for the diagrams….
 

Pedro

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These 2 below are used primarily for repairs with the head on the car you will only need to remove the intercooler pipe work etc to get behind the engine its fiddly but is possible if your adept with a sockets & wrenches/ spanners & these diagrams show the dummy tensioner used to calibrate the timing but its fitted in the same position as the main tensioner location & if my memory serves me correctly I removed the Timing valve above the tensioner for ease of access but most importantly you need to use the crankshaft flywheel locking tool (setting rod) before you release the tensioner
 

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MJZ

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Can I ask how many members on this forum have changed their own cam chain tensioner and if you locked the crankshaft flywheel? Why would that be necessary when changing the tensioner….the chain is not going to jump cogs and cause the timing to be out…it rattles when not tensioned….as we know on some early morning start ups when the car has been stood for a few days, especially in colder weather…so why the need to lock the chain, you dont even turn the engine when removing the tensioner, it simply comes out and another goes in, at most pushing against the chain, not lifting it off its sprocket.
i have the same e-manual and find it very un user friendly…the index is a nightmare to navigate…the tensioner is clearly visible from above and below…has anyone tried changing it from below…you wouldn’t need to remove anything up top!
 

Pedro

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Better to be safe than sorry the chain can move whilst there is no tension & if it jumps onto even half a cog then you will have to retime the engine which as you may know already is not a 5 minute fix I would place a bet on saying if you took this to Peugeot & said don't bother locking the flywheel when you slacken off the chain to do this job I would imagine they would think you had lost your marbles
 

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Anybody willing to offer their experience of changing the tensioner….how did you do it? I would really like to know how you did it….thanks
 

MJZ

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Yes…i have the same e-manual you have I believe…
 

MJZ

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Ok…I got “it’s a straight forward job” and “it’s more awkward than hard”….thanks for the info but it’s not helpful. Where else can I look? I’ve seen a few very good you tube videos on how to change the timing chain and of course, once you’ve stripped everything off to change that, the tensioner is a piece of cake! I couldn’t find anything that dealt with the tensioner alone…maybe I’m not very good at researching! I did find something here though…someone stated how to remove the big intake pipe over the left side of the engine.
I couldn’t find a comprehensive description though, so I decided i'm just gonna have to give it a go. So I did….and I changed it!
 

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Yes….no locking at all….the car didn’t move….the engine didn’t turn…the sprockets didn’t turn….just released the tensioner and replaced it….i see no reason whatsoever to lock anything, when nothing moves….understanding What the tensioner does is useful to know…if you look at the mechanics you know there’s no problem….👍
 

Shanks

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Yes….no locking at all….the car didn’t move….the engine didn’t turn…the sprockets didn’t turn….just released the tensioner and replaced it….i see no reason whatsoever to lock anything, when nothing moves….understanding What the tensioner does is useful to know…if you look at the mechanics you know there’s no problem….👍
Thanks for replying. Just ordered the tensioner. Did replacing the tensioner fix the problem that you had?
 

MJZ

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Yes….absolutely….just started to hear the death rattle on start up…it lasted about 30 seconds…now no problem at all and the tensioner I took out was clearly faulty…it wouldn’t compress like the new one. I got mine from autodoc.uk ….Peugeot don’t make them, that’s straight from them…they’re made in asia and Come with a part number stamped on the head….it’s not difficult to do just very awkward….good luck….
 

Pedro

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I used the crankshaft locking pin when I did mine
 

lfe

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I'm thinking about changing it myself too.

Today mine rattled for a few seconds about 2 minutes after cold start.

Did you do it from the top or the bottom of the engine?

Thanks.
 
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