Is it safe to change the Cam Chain Tensioner?

[lfe]

The washer was and is positioned superimposed as in your left drawing although its outer diameter is much smaller. Attached photo of the old tensioner with washer.

As I said before there was no other washer on the engine block.

I just took out a tensioner with its washer and put a new one with its new washer, that's all.

If once you took out a tensioner without a washer, it's very probably because it was installed without it.

 

[MJZ]

The washer was and is positioned superimposed as in your left drawing although its outer diameter is much smaller. Attached photo of the old tensioner with washer.

As I said before there was no other washer on the engine block.

I just took out a tensioner with its washer and put a new one with its new washer, that's all.

If once you took out a tensioner without a washer, it's very probably because it was installed without it.

Looks like my tensioner was put in without a washer...I put it back as I found it...it’s working fine...I guess mine is in, the width of the washer, further! Can that really make a difference....no oil leaks

 

[MJZ]

Looks like my tensioner was put in without a washer...I put it back as I found it...it’s working fine...I guess mine is in, the width of the washer, further! Can that really make a difference....no oil leaks

Thanks Ife......you’ve been extremely helpful....very much appreciated......

 

[Hearn]

Yes….absolutely….just started to hear the death rattle on start up…it lasted about 30 seconds…now no problem at all and the tensioner I took out was clearly faulty…it wouldn’t compress like the new one. I got mine from autodoc.uk ….Peugeot don’t make them, that’s straight from them…they’re made in asia and Come with a part number stamped on the head….it’s not difficult to do just very awkward….good luck….

Hi, I hope you don't mind that I am asking exactly the same question that you initially did. Did you simply unscrew the old tensioner and replace it with a new one?

 

[Hearn]

I did mine from the top and was easier and quicker than I expected it to be - cost me £15 for the tensioner and 1hr!!.

Hi Shanks, did you simply unscrew the old one and screw in the new one?

 

[MJZ]

Hi Hearn…..yep, as simple as that….unscrew the old and remove…..replace with new and tighten up….mines still running fine….no noises….

 

[Hearn]

Hi Hearn…..yep, as simple as that….unscrew the old and remove…..replace with new and tighten up….mines still running fine….no noises….

Thanks so much for the clarity. Much appreciated.

 

[lfe]

Hi Hearn…..yep, as simple as that….unscrew the old and remove…..replace with new and tighten up….mines still running fine….no noises….

Same for me, since then I have never heard the rattle again.

 

[Larryb]

I'm thinking about changing it myself too.

Today mine rattled for a few seconds about 2 minutes after cold start.

Did you do it from the top or the bottom of the engine?

Thanks.

Did you change the tensioner ok?
I have the same issue
Following MJZ example I think I’ll give it a go
Pedro suggests locking the camshaft not sure how that’s done

 

[MJZ]

Changing the tensioner is not easy…some say it is others say it’s not but it is possible, you just gotta take yer time and do things step by step…YOU DO NOT NEED TO LOCK THE CAMSHAFT…THIS IS BULLOCKS…excuse my French…as I have explained in this thread above. There is a long thick fat pipe running from the front of the engine to the rear on the left hand side…some have said this pipe can be split half way, if yours can do that, the job is much easier….but my pipe is in one piece…so getting to the end of this pipe with your hand behind the engine is a pain and the biggest problem when getting to the tensioner. Yer working blind to loosen a nut on a cir clip holding the rubber pipe to its housing. It’s not impossible and can be done with a little patience…better to remove as much from the left as needed to make access easier. Getting the tensioner out is not a problem but yer almost working blind again and putting it in is no problem either…there is a torque setting….dunno what it is now! Since doing mine, I’ve had no trouble at all…I will think about getting the whole cam chain assembly changed next year by my peugeot garage…I’m not going to attempt that, better to pay a professional and get a warranty…..good luck with the job and any queries, I’m here….cheers Mike

 

[Larryb]

Changing the tensioner is not easy…some say it is others say it’s not but it is possible, you just gotta take yer time and do things step by step…YOU DO NOT NEED TO LOCK THE CAMSHAFT…THIS IS BULLOCKS…excuse my French…as I have explained in this thread above. There is a long thick fat pipe running from the front of the engine to the rear on the left hand side…some have said this pipe can be split half way, if yours can do that, the job is much easier….but my pipe is in one piece…so getting to the end of this pipe with your hand behind the engine is a pain and the biggest problem when getting to the tensioner. Yer working blind to loosen a nut on a cir clip holding the rubber pipe to its housing. It’s not impossible and can be done with a little patience…better to remove as much from the left as needed to make access easier. Getting the tensioner out is not a problem but yer almost working blind again and putting it in is no problem either…there is a torque setting….dunno what it is now! Since doing mine, I’ve had no trouble at all…I will think about getting the whole cam chain assembly changed next year by my peugeot garage…I’m not going to attempt that, better to pay a professional and get a warranty…..good luck with the job and any queries, I’m here….cheers Mike

Thanks for your quick reply Mike. I appreciated your straightforward approach to this problem and how best to tackle it.

 

[Lyonelle]

Hi Mike/MJZ
Thanks for the detailed account to resolve the issue I have for about 6 months. That occasional noise on start up. I took my 2015 THP, 28K miles into Peugeot for a diagnostic test (£250) , for them to tell me there was no problem with the timing belt. I was relieved to hear this, but they could not tell me what the noise is. I can go back to Peugeot and ask for a quote to fix the cam chain tensioner now.

Forum is brilliant! Thanks guys

 

[Pedro]

Changing the tensioner is not easy…some say it is others say it’s not but it is possible, you just gotta take yer time and do things step by step…YOU DO NOT NEED TO LOCK THE CAMSHAFT…THIS IS BULLOCKS…excuse my French…as I have explained in this thread above. There is a long thick fat pipe running from the front of the engine to the rear on the left hand side…some have said this pipe can be split half way, if yours can do that, the job is much easier….but my pipe is in one piece…so getting to the end of this pipe with your hand behind the engine is a pain and the biggest problem when getting to the tensioner. Yer working blind to loosen a nut on a cir clip holding the rubber pipe to its housing. It’s not impossible and can be done with a little patience…better to remove as much from the left as needed to make access easier. Getting the tensioner out is not a problem but yer almost working blind again and putting it in is no problem either…there is a torque setting….dunno what it is now! Since doing mine, I’ve had no trouble at all…I will think about getting the whole cam chain assembly changed next year by my peugeot garage…I’m not going to attempt that, better to pay a professional and get a warranty…..good luck with the job and any queries, I’m here….cheers Mike

You don't lock the camshafts you lock the flywheel but you being a superior expert on the prince engines would already know that ???

 

[lfe]

Did you change the tensioner ok?
I have the same issue
Following MJZ example I think I’ll give it a go
Pedro suggests locking the camshaft not sure how that’s done

Yes, I explained it here : Is it safe to change the Cam Chain Tensioner?

I didn't lock anything
After about 13,000 km since the change, the chain is still silent

 

[Larryb]

Paying closer attention to the ticking /tappet sound from the top of the engine the noise seems slightly worse around the water pump area.
Auto Belt tensioner maybe? Or the pump itself
All original 12 years old 30000 miles only
Services average around 5000 miles every 2 years maybe the timing chain/ tensioner is ok after all due to the low mileage. Although I noticed this time the oil level was on minimum on dipstick
Just had an oil and filter change full service
Garage didn’t think it was anything to be concerned but I still have doubts

 

[Pedro]

Mine did that when I bought it I had suspicion it was the pump as the cam rattle disappeared after warm up but a slight grating noise was apparent so figured it was water pump changed it & problem disappeared

 

[Larryb]

I think I’ll change the water pump and good to have a new belt anyway, I can check the belt tensioners at the same time
Remove wheel and inner arch trim
Put on stands.