Shanks
New Member
I did mine from the top and was easier and quicker than I expected it to be - cost me £15 for the tensioner and 1hr!!.
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Is it safe to change the Cam Chain Tensioner?
- Thread starter MJZ
- Start date
Hi L….I looked at doing it from the bottom but believe it not I couldn’t see f all from underneath….it looks like you should be able to do it when looking from the top…it might have been easier if I had a 4 post lift!!! I did mine from the top and the only real hassle I had was removing the large pipe over the left side of the engine….it was a real bugger…you have to follow it blind down to a large jubilee clip with a 10mm ring spanner (could be an 8…can’t remember now). Undo the nut on the jubilee clip and then the fun really starts when yer try a pull the pipe off its housing. Some say it comes off easily but mine was stuck tight. In the end I used a crow bar to lever it off!!! If yer need to know anything else…pm me…no problem….
Shanks….that’s amazing….I took my time but it took me about 6 hours…yes I had lot of breaks, contemplating how the f I was going to get the large pipe off and as it happens back on…what a pain in the a@#* that was….Im sure it will be much easier next time….
Yeah….that’s correct….there’s a rubber grommet that sits inside the housing and over the pipe in the pic….the jubilee clip sits over the lot….the grommet was truly stuck on mine and you can only get one hand down there at a time…it needs to be pulled back off the housing but my muscles couldn't cope with that, the natural pull was towards me, at an angle, but that’s not the way to get it off. Actually getting it back on was just as bad but I gave the grommet a very light coating of oil on the inside to aid sliding it back on. Doing up the jubilee clip was also a pain, it has to be done by feel alone and I used a small socket set ratchet, once the socket was on, I could do it up slowly but because the jubilee clip was lose, not fixed as when you’re undoing it, it was difficult to get the socket on and hold the bloody clip still enough to do it. This job is far easier on the BMW mini which has the same engine!!!
That’s very interesting L because my pipe is in one piece, it can’t be split like the one in the video….it looks completely different….let us know how you get on but also….can you tell me, when you remove the Tensioner, please note if it comes away with a washer. The tensioner comes new with a new washer….when I took mine out, it didn’t have a washer on it….I checked the engine block and it looks like the washer has its own seat in the block….could you please make note of this and let me know if your Tensioner comes out with the washer attached….thanks
Mines 2014 156hp and your right about the two piece pipe….it’s here in the manual….see pics…but mine looks to be in one piece, I can’t see any link…I’ll go and dig further and check but I never came across it in my research before….it was always removing the whole pipe…should make it a lot easier your way, if you’ve got enough room…the video is not an RCZ (never is!) and looks like more space to work with….
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I dunno if it sits proud of the engine block or if it has its own seat within the engine block….it looks like it sits in the engine block, i tried shifting it with a screw driver but it wouldn’t move ….you can just make out what might be the washer in it’s seat…when you change yours, let me know what you find…I can’t get an answer elsewhere on this forum, I’ve tried….cheers
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lfe
Active Member
I already changed the tensioner 5 days ago.
It took me about 45 minutes with an assistant friend.
I open the intermediate joint on the pipe from the intercooler to the intake manifold and loosened the clamp on the manifold side blindly with a small ratchet wrench. So you can rotate the pipe backwards.
Then it was easy to remove and replace the tensioner, you can pry the wrench with a bar on a lifting eye that has the engine.
When removing the tensioner, about 50 cc of oil falls.
As for the washer, then I simply change the old one for the new one, oiling the new one a little to improve the tightening. There was no washer stuck to the engine.
The new tensioner spring is about 30% stronger than the old one. I expected the difference to be bigger.
Before the change the chain rattled a bit during the first few minutes, mainly when releasing the throttle pedal. The rattle has now disappeared
I think it was a good action to extend the life of the chain.
I have installed a STARK SKTTC-1330030 tensioner purchased at Autodoc
It took me about 45 minutes with an assistant friend.
I open the intermediate joint on the pipe from the intercooler to the intake manifold and loosened the clamp on the manifold side blindly with a small ratchet wrench. So you can rotate the pipe backwards.
Then it was easy to remove and replace the tensioner, you can pry the wrench with a bar on a lifting eye that has the engine.
When removing the tensioner, about 50 cc of oil falls.
As for the washer, then I simply change the old one for the new one, oiling the new one a little to improve the tightening. There was no washer stuck to the engine.
The new tensioner spring is about 30% stronger than the old one. I expected the difference to be bigger.
Before the change the chain rattled a bit during the first few minutes, mainly when releasing the throttle pedal. The rattle has now disappeared
I think it was a good action to extend the life of the chain.
I have installed a STARK SKTTC-1330030 tensioner purchased at Autodoc
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