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"ENGINE FAULT REPAIR NEEDED"

pete.garratt

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Not heard of any, but since it's a mechanical thing in the cam gear/timing chain - assuming the lower power configurations have variable valve timing - I would say it is not impossible but less likely, perhaps.
 

Sanity

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Getting frustrated once again! :eusa-think:
GF called yesterday only to inform that she got the "Enginge fault repair needed" message followed by limp mode and 40km from home. She told me that the engine doesn't pull and the engine is shaking if she tries to accelerate.
She drove it home around 50km/h and we had to leave for dinner so I just locked it and qiet pissed walked away.

Today I connected it to my OBD reader and got the error code P1340 which I believe is one of the four ignition coils?
It could also be a faulty spark plug but those where replaced around 6000km ago and in July so probably not.
I didn't bother to start the car and as it's saturday with limited workshops open I'll wait until moday morning too investigate further.

Has anyone else got that code or maybe P1337, P1338 or P1339? I think those are for the ignition coils (1-4) but I am not sure.

anyhow, slowly starting to get in that "I hate french cars mode again" But it's still absolutly beutiful piece of car despite all the terrible quality issues.
It's not a good sign when you sit in the car and the first thing that comes to mind is: will it take me from A-B? :lol: :?
 

tianorth

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From what I've read somewhere else on the forum you can swap the coil packs from One cylinder to another to find which one is at fault
 

the big blue

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Hi Sanity :greetings-wavingblue:
..sorry to hear of the current woe that you are having. I had to have a coil pack replaced on my Z' a few weeks ago after suffering a similar issue to what you've described. I believe that Euro Car Parts sell "Bosch" coil packs for about £22 per cylinder or you can pay more for a lesser branded one no doubt at the Main Dealers ! :clap:

I agree that every time I have an issue no matter how easily repaired and well documented on this Forum the trust that I have in the my Z' lessens and the frustration increases. :x


.the big blue (..future car purchases will entail surfing car forums first to ascertain any likely issues that MAY be inherent AND then I will choose the car as opposed to letting the car choose me) :!:
 

Sanity

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thanks for your inputs :thumbup:

Drove the car to the workshop this morning and it has now been returned to me :)
The fault code P1340 was the ignition coil 4. After they replaced that one they got a new error. This time P1339 (which is ignition coil 3) They called me on the phone asking if they should replace all four of them and I said yes.

Now 342.56 pounds lighter in my wallet I just recieved the next error message :eek: :shock:
"Top up engine oil level" :eusa-think: Checked the oil on the fantasticly stupid and unreadable dipstick and it all seems fine. There is oil on the upper mark. So now I got new things to do again.... sigh... :?
 

Sanity

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Got that oil message sorted also :)
Talked to the mechanic and he told me that he noticed the message when he was inspecting the car so he put in some oil to top up.
He said that it will dissapear after a few starts or a day or so. Now its gone :)
 

Sanity

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Re: "ENGINE FAULT REPAIR NEEDED"

tianorth said:
Don't tell me that a sensor actually did what it was supposed to do! LOL! !!

Haha yea it seems to work on my car... :)
 

DKZ5745

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Earlier this year, when I got the low oil warning message, the last thing I thought it would be was, well, low oil :eusa-think:

So when I topped it up, even though I couldn't see a thing on the dipstick, and the warning stayed there, I assumed the worst.

It was RCZ1 that told me when. She got the same message & topped up, it took quite some time for the message to disappear. She was right, it went the next day.

Exactly what forums like these are for, so those with experience can help those without. :clap:
 
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Anonymous

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I now have the same problem as other posts. On accelerating using a few revs, guess around 5000rpm my engine suddenly lost power and registered engine fault, but luckily only a few miles from home, so slowed down and got home to hear the turbo fan racing higher than normal and stayed on 3 times longer than usual. Phoned Peugeot garage who got me in straight away. After a couple of hours they informed me it was a coil problem and could get for the next day (today) my engine felt like it had dropped a cylinder as juddering, so from previous comments I am hoping this is all it is. Will post new as and when I have any news good or bad. But fingers crossed for now. RCZ 200GT.
 
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Anonymous

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biggsie said:
I now have the same problem as other posts. On accelerating using a few revs, guess around 5000rpm my engine suddenly lost power and registered engine fault, but luckily only a few miles from home, so slowed down and got home to hear the turbo fan racing higher than normal and stayed on 3 times longer than usual. Phoned Peugeot garage who got me in straight away. After a couple of hours they informed me it was a coil problem and could get for the next day (today) my engine felt like it had dropped a cylinder as juddering, so from previous comments I am hoping this is all it is. Will post new as and when I have any news good or bad. But fingers crossed for now. RCZ 200GT.


Coil changed and seem to have done the trick, just wonder how long until another gives up the ghost and where. May have to pre emp and buy 3 spares ready. lol
 

thornebt

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I got the P1340 fault code last night. I had a spare coil pack and changed it this morning. This really must be the easiest repair ever. I'm now going to buy a spare coil pack for the next time one goes. It would be a nightmare if it happened hundreds of miles from home. I might leave my OBDII code reader and spare coil pack in the boot just in case.
 
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Anonymous

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Not tricky when you know what's wrong! Good job...

Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk
 

thornebt

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It's a shame that some people will take their RCZ to Peugeot with this problem. A code reader is probably about a tenner, the coil pack is £22.50 with free delivery from Ebay and it's as simple as lift the plastic tab on top of the coil pack, unplug the lead, pull the coil pack upwards and then reverse the process with the new coil. So total cost probably about £35 and ten minutes to do the job which includes the bit with the code reader.

If you take your car to Peugeot they will charge you about £100 for the diagnostic check and the coil pack will probably be three times the price. Plus whatever they charge for ten minutes labour! I'm guessing it might be £200 all in.

For anyone considering buying an OBDII code reader you need to know that the multi pin socket you plug it into is behind the ashtray. Just remove it, take out the rubber base and you will see the socket.

Also, bear in mind that the cylinders are numbered 4, 3, 2, 1 from left to right as you face the engine - not the other way round as you might expect.
 

Sanity

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Once again I got the "Engine fault repair needed" message a week ago.
Been out driving for a while and left the car idling for about two minutes. When I returned I saw the message and the engine light was on.
Car still pulled fine, no limp mode so I hooked it up with my OBD reader and got P2191 error.

Google says: P2191 Mixture regulation fault. Mixture too lean.

My ODB says: System Too Lean at Higher Load (Bank 1)

Other forum posts says: P2191 fault is listed as a mixture fault but infact is a timing fault. The camshaft pulleys on these engines are not secured with a keyway and are prone to slipping and giving this fault code.

Because both camshafts and the crankshaft have their pulleys bolted on, with only friction to lock them in place (rather than a key or a pin) any of the pulleys can slip

The reason you dont see a sync fault is the inlet or exhaust cam that has slipped only does so very slightly but not enough to show up as sync problem but enough that the mixture goes out of what the ECU has regulated for so brings up a mixture fault. Peugeot did release a engine ECU download at the beging to increase the mixture band but proved unsucssesfull.

And also this: P2191 For EP6DT engine, this fault code has often been associated with Cam Timing.


I cleared the code and have been using the car for a week without any problems until today when the error came back again. This time also after I left it idling for about two minutes.
It still works perfect though, pulls fine no limp mode.
I have no wierd sound from engine or chain upon cold starts. Both times there was very little fuel left in the tank.
Car just came back from 60 000km service.
Has anyone expirienced the same error code or has any advice?

UPDATE!:
Due to totally incompetent mechanic I have managed too fix the issue myself.
I opened the bonet just to take a look if there could be anything visible and I'll be damned, The red circles in the picture are the hoses that weren't connected at all. I guess the fool must have forgotten after he changed the oilfilter :evil: No more service at that place ever and yes it's a Peugeot dealer.
 

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Anonymous

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I got the engine light on AGAIN today with the P1030 code..

First time i was just cruising in 70km/h, and this time i was just starting from a red light and it got into limp mode...

The car sounds fine and pulls perfectly so i really don't know what to look for :(

I know that some of you have had the same code appear, what did you end up replacing? What made the light go away for good?
 

thornebt

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The generic fault description for this code seems to be:-

Description of Fault code P1030

FUEL HEATER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
Possible failuer P1030

Fuel Heater Relay (Contact stuck OFF)
Fuel Heater High-side harness (Short to ground), Fuel Heater Relay harness (Open or short to ground)
Power Distribution Detection harness (Short to power)
Fuel Heater Relay fuse blown

...but fault codes can vary between manufacturers so the Peugeot code may mean something different.

If your RCZ is a diesel then this code might make sense. You will need to find out where the fuel heating device is and also the relay for it. Sorry, that's probably not much help but I guess it's a starting point. I think if this is the fault it would probably make your RCZ difficult to start in cold weather.
 
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