What's new
Peugeot RCZ Forum

Register a free account today to become a member. It's free! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, connect with other members through your own private inbox and take part in competitions!

"ENGINE FAULT REPAIR NEEDED"

A

Anonymous

Guest
thornebt said:
The generic fault description for this code seems to be:-

Description of Fault code P1030

FUEL HEATER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
Possible failuer P1030

Fuel Heater Relay (Contact stuck OFF)
Fuel Heater High-side harness (Short to ground), Fuel Heater Relay harness (Open or short to ground)
Power Distribution Detection harness (Short to power)
Fuel Heater Relay fuse blown

...but fault codes can vary between manufacturers so the Peugeot code may mean something different.

If your RCZ is a diesel then this code might make sense. You will need to find out where the fuel heating device is and also the relay for it. Sorry, that's probably not much help but I guess it's a starting point. I think if this is the fault it would probably make your RCZ difficult to start in cold weather.


Thanks for the reply! It is the 200hp model and i have no problem starting it.

I will leave it to a shop to find out what it is, but it would be nice to at least get a idea of what could be causing it. :cry:
 

drdino

Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2014
Messages
145
Reaction score
2
Points
16
Re: "ENGINE FAULT REPAIR NEEDED"

Freitas said:
I got the engine light on AGAIN today with the P1030 code..

First time i was just cruising in 70km/h, and this time i was just starting from a red light and it got into limp mode...

The car sounds fine and pulls perfectly so i really don't know what to look for :(

I know that some of you have had the same code appear, what did you end up replacing? What made the light go away for good?
That's a vvt coherence error... What's the mileage of the car?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Re:

drdino said:
Freitas said:
I got the engine light on AGAIN today with the P1030 code..

First time i was just cruising in 70km/h, and this time i was just starting from a red light and it got into limp mode...

The car sounds fine and pulls perfectly so i really don't know what to look for :(

I know that some of you have had the same code appear, what did you end up replacing? What made the light go away for good?
That's a vvt coherence error... What's the mileage of the car?


Only 61 000km :)
 

Sanity

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2015
Messages
171
Reaction score
2
Points
18
Freitas: you can read more about it here.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=9225&p=122531&hilit=p1030#p122531


I had that fault code once with limp mode etc. Cleared the code with my OBD reader and did a ECU reset. Now 25k kilometers and 1 and ½ year later it hasn't returned and everything is fine... knock on wood :D

Edit. added link with more info.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=4023&p=118541&hilit=p1030#p118541


I have also gotten pm's from other members on the p1030 where the above procedure seems to have done the trick.
So as far as I'm concerned the system seems really sensitive for some fault codes. Dont waste your money before you are absolutly sure that there infact is an error that needs repair.

I'm pretty sure that my error also was present around 60 000km... :eusa-think:
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Sanity said:
Freitas: you can read more about it here.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=9225&p=122531&hilit=p1030#p122531


I had that fault code once with limp mode etc. Cleared the code with my OBD reader and did a ECU reset. Now 25k kilometers and 1 and ½ year later it hasn't returned and everything is fine... knock on wood :D

Edit. added link with more info.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=4023&p=118541&hilit=p1030#p118541


I have also gotten pm's from other members on the p1030 where the above procedure seems to have done the trick.
So as far as I'm concerned the system seems really sensitive for some fault codes. Dont waste your money before you are absolutly sure that there infact is an error that needs repair.

I'm pretty sure that my error also was present around 60 000km... :eusa-think:


Thanks! I think i read those the first time it happened :thumbup:

Hmm, the fault cleared itself for me the first time and then i cleared it with my torque app, but i did not do a ECU reset :?

Maybe i should try that? I just figured that now when it has showed twice that i should get it checked out.
 

Sanity

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2015
Messages
171
Reaction score
2
Points
18
Try it out. Myself and two other forum members seem to have got it sorted since it hasn't returned for a long time.
If it returns again within a couple of days/weeks you should probably investigate further as it can be not only the vv coherence but also timing issues.
Does the engine sound good on cold starts? no rattling or wierd noise wich goes away after it heats up?
 

DRTDVL

Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
234
Reaction score
4
Points
18
Location
Auckland
We had it... I asked the dealership to just reset the code as they wanted (as per a service bulletin) to remove the rocker cover to visually inspect the vvt mech. It was going to cost 500 nzd just to do the visual inspection.

Reset the code a month or two ago now and no issues.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Sanity said:
Try it out. Myself and two other forum members seem to have got it sorted since it hasn't returned for a long time.
If it returns again within a couple of days/weeks you should probably investigate further as it can be not only the vv coherence but also timing issues.
Does the engine sound good on cold starts? no rattling or wierd noise wich goes away after it heats up?


I will first check with JBil if they can lookup what ecu version i have and if mine is old, they can put in the latest file.

The shop that has been doing all the maintenance on my rcz since new is not a peugeot dealer so maybe it has old firmware. I also got confirmation that Peugeot Sätra that serviced mine do not even check what version it is...

Hopefully i will hear from Jbil tomorrow :)


EDIT: No it sounds good, my dad who also is a gearhead is confused how it can say that something is wrong when it sounds perfectly normal and has no problem when you floor it :?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
DRTDVL said:
We had it... I asked the dealership to just reset the code as they wanted (as per a service bulletin) to remove the rocker cover to visually inspect the vvt mech. It was going to cost 500 nzd just to do the visual inspection.

Reset the code a month or two ago now and no issues.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk


Last time the code disappeared on its own, but I will see what version my edu has and then i will take it from there!



*UPDATE* So the shop that i left it to says that they want to replace the whole VVT system.. My insurance will cover it so it will not be over expensive. Will update here once it is fixed and if the problem recurs.


*UPDATE 2* Got my car back yesterday! :thumbup:

They only changed the variable valve lift motor and a gasket. It did not work at first and the fault kept coming back, but the ECU just had to learn the new parts or something.

Now i will drive it for a month and see if the problem recurs :)

*UPDATE 3* Been driving 1000+ km, no fault code :thumbup:
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
i drive a THP200 and have the dreaded engine fault repair needed, its the second time its happened, first time it cleared itself but both times i ran the car low on petrol, i have no loss of power, could i have sucked up some dirt or something? :eusa-think:
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hey guys 4 times over the last 2 months, ive got Fault P1339 with limp mode, Loss of power, running on 3 cylinders with message Engine fault repair needed.
this all started when i didnt drive my car for 2 1/2 weeks over xmas and the new year
had to call AA OUT TO JUMP START THE CAR AS I HAD A FLAT BATTERY
and ive had the limp mode 4 times since.
when it happens its allways when ive havn't driven it for 4-5 days
and it goes into limp mode at the exact same spot each time its done it, on my way to work just as i get on the motorway around the 3 mile mark, i open her up over taking a few cars then limp mode. same distance travelled each time. and had no option but to travel 20 miles each way to work and back.
when i diagnose it P1339 Code spark missfire in cylinder number 3 comes up.
ive changed the spark plugs and coils but still the same thing.
Eachtime its done it the cars been standing for 4-5 days and when i clear the fault codes and then drive it everyday it dosn't come back, until again its been standing for a few days...
would an old dying battery throw up a P1339 fault code? as its 7 yrs old was completly flat when this all started
and when i get in the car within 10 seconds it goes into economy mode.
just wondering if anybody else has had fault issues with an old battery?

2010 Launch edition RCZ 1.6 156 thp
 

tianorth

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Messages
1,835
Reaction score
47
Points
48
Location
Fareham, Hampshire
Check the battery terminal are tight and also the earth lead to and from the engine is tight and in good condition.
Try swapping coil packs from other cylinders to see if it then fails on that cylinder, even if new you could get a faulty one! Mark it up first so you know original order.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Yeah, i have swapped the coils around and made sure the leads are clean and pushed in nice and tight when plugged back in.
Keeps throwing the same code P1339
will double check the terminals tho.
Thanks
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
terminals are nice and tight, tho the + terminal is Corroded looking, looks white?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Bit of a scary article regarding all those faults can come from the same fault code P1339
just my luck LOL, Would be too simple for the code to tell me the exact problem
Was hoping somebody on here has had a similar issue with a battery coming to the end of its life thowing the same fault code up.
i think this could end up being an expensive case of chasing my tail
till i stumble accros the correct fault!!!
reading some of the horror stories with some peugeot dealers on this subject dosn't fill me with cofidence. :wtf:
 

tianorth

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2013
Messages
1,835
Reaction score
47
Points
48
Location
Fareham, Hampshire
Not to fill you with even more dread but I'm not sure that Peugeot dealership know what they are investigating, as if the computer says no what do they do then?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
I know, I've done the 3 EASY possible fixes, that's Spark plugs, coils new and switched around and the Ecu reset.
Think I will get a new battery fitted and c how that goes. There's no way I'm go down that rabbit hole chasing the right fix potentially pissing money away in the process... I've had good 4 yrs out of her so Can see a P/x in the soon to be future.
 

rcz_r1

New Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2016
Messages
27
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Spain
Hi all,
I had noises from the left side of the engine on my R.
Checking the noises with the iphone flash and found oil leak on the bottom left side of the engine bay.
I checked the floor on my parking space as well and found around 10 small oil spots.

I went to the official service as The car still in warranty.
Spoke with them and showing the issues (noises and oil leak) and my perceptions as less power and some pulls when driving.

They called the next day saying that the car has to stay there for a few days because they were waiting reply from peugeot to start with the works and see if they are covered by warranty.

I called them the next day as I didn't know was going on and the reception said that a new chain and tensioner were on the way but I did not receive any explanations from the mechanic or anything.

My car is from July 2014. Do you think that once they replace it this new chain will solve all the issues and last for the rest of his life?
I mean is this a permanent solution or just one of his new future chains?
Thanks for your help in advance.
 

DKZ5745

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2014
Messages
5,098
Reaction score
568
Points
113
Location
Yorkshire
This is the first R I have heard of having a chain/tensioner failure.

The replacement that has been fitted to the MK1's is a modified part, that should not have the same failure rate as the original.
I know the modified part is fitted as standard on the Mk2 RCZ so I assumed this would be the case for all R's.

To my knowledge, the timing chain problem would not be the cause of an oil leak.
 
Top