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Well, if the old washer sticks to the engine, it will have to be removed to be able to use the new one.

I can only say that mine has an intermediate union like the images shown here.

2010 156HP

I my car, where the arrow, there is a jubilee clip where it can be separated into two parts. Thanks.

Thanks !! I will first try to move the tube back without removing it as it does in 2:33 of this video

Thank you ! I can rent a space with a 2-post elevator for an hour for €15 I guess the hard part was where the arrow is in the image, right?

I'm thinking about changing it myself too. Today mine rattled for a few seconds about 2 minutes after cold start. Did you do it from the top or the bottom of the engine? Thanks.

I also had a hard time getting it out, one of the springs instead of compressing to allow it to come out, it bent upwards and I had to apply quite force. But at first it can really be difficult to get it to separate a bit from the front, I seem to remember that I also used a suction cup to help.

On the courtesy light, you insert a hard plastic wedge into the front side, separate it and tilt the entire device, the device has springs on the front side that keep it up. The whole device is removed, the connectors are disconnected and then with a very fine screwdriver you loosen the hooks...

I had the buzz due to a short-circuited light bulb, the one on the right door illuminating the floor and it is powered by the same dimmer as the courtesy light. There are 5 bulbs in parallel powered by the same dimmer, the courtesy one, two in the lower part of the doors and two in the driver's...

I was not referring to buying them at Peugeot but rather using the same type of original bulb https://www.amazon.co.uk/Simply-S501-W5W-Auxiliary-Bulb/dp/B00NITNXGI/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3QVQ43F0SZI2Z For me the buzz was caused by a short-circuited bulb in the interior lighting that is controlled by...

The original bulbs are not LED.

I also had a buzz caused by a shorted LED bulb. It was one of the ones under the doors. In my case the buzz was heard at the door. As I already said in another therad, avoid those LED lamps. Remove them all and replace the original incandescent ones, which can continue to be bought without...

The possible problem with LED bulbs is that by consuming much less the ECU believes that they are not working. You should avoid bulbs like the ones in the photo since they can be crossed and short-circuited since they do not have any protrusion between the contacts. If you want something safe...

Get a used 17" Peugeot 407 wheel with a 215/55 tire, the diameter is almost the same as the ones on the RCZ. It cost me only 50€ It fits perfectly in the space under the trunk without raising the floor and without having to deflate it. For RCZ THP 156HP and HDI it can be mounted on the front...

Yes, if it is not present it is harder to press it . When I bought my car the spring was there but not attached to the pedal. I managed to reposition it and the improvement was clear.

It also says HCA on my blade, but for sure it's different from yours. If the case is changed, the old blade should be reused. It is disassembled by removing a small pin that it has.

I had a problem with a Chinese LED bulb for the interior lighting that the previous owner had installed. The bulb had moved and was shorting out. I reinstalled the original incandescent lamps that he also gave me.

I think that should refer to old keyfobs, I have disconnected the car battery several times and changed the keyfob battery and it has worked again without doing anything else, except for the poor contact problem explained above. Same with the 2006 Citroen I had.

With a 2006 Citroen that I had before, with an almost identical key, at the end, I had to solder a fine insulated wire between the battery contact spring and where it should connect in the electronic circuit. Years later I changed the key casing (they sell it on amazon) and it worked again...