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The below pic might help you show others where your leak is if you circle the area. Personally I stay away from diesel, just look at the amount of stuff they crammed on it. (Was about to paste in a petrol with the different spots on the rear, then re read you were diesel, silly me).

I like to (hopefully) be in front of any chain issues so change them before book, although both were past in terms of their years. I am moving the dirtier one up to 5/30 at it next service though, not sure if I will run a cleaner through it yet. In the for it list there is the possibility of...

So it’s been said quite a few times on here about the book service interval on these engine being too long. Whilst doing something else on one of them I had the rocker cover off and took a pic for reference, and took to compare with the other I photographed when doing its timing chain about two...

Well in some one else’s post I mentioned that I have to change my thermo housing because I was loosing a bit of coolant. Never a simple job, never easy and quite involved but it’s great when it just grows into a bigger job. And I know it not my RCZ but it is the same, well everything. So started...

No it may be me misleading, by ‘?’ Shaped pipe I mean the one highlighted red in the pic, it looks like a ? Pressure test kit is a good way to go for coolant leaks on these, and other cars.

I rarely see another over here, and usually it’s to far behind me too quick to wave 🤭, but really there just seems to be none about, er when I am anyway.

here’s a link to the bodged pipe, other suppliers do them too, if you change it make sure and position so it’s not rubbing on the driveshaft...

some suggestion, but unfortunately there are more things for each. Oil leak - you changed the crankcase breather and the leak reduced? Do you mean the ‘?’ shape pipe coming out of the valve cover? The end of that pipe at the cover should have a rubber sleeve in the end of it that seals and...

that’s how the look new, (in the pic) as you have said you need a new dust boot and strut top mount but be sure to buy the full strut top mount, quiet a few aftermarket ones available are just the bear and judging by the condition of what left you’d be better with a full mount. You don’t want to...

the tensioners on the very early cars were only getting torqued at the factory to 60Nm (from memory) and after a bunch of heat cycles they started leaking. Was a service recall back in the day, up to 80/90 Nm now. With all the items done that you have, should keep the oil in the right place...

Go all in on the top and front, valve cover, filter housing to block gaskets as well as the pre mentioned feed pipe. Check the pipe on the right hand end of the valve cover too, from pcv to cold turbo pipe, tends to stretch with heat cycles and allow a wee bit of a weep which can look like an...

Not saying that turbos from eBay are all bad, but you might be better to find a local(ish) respected turbo refurb company. It may work out cheaper in the end as it may only need a resell or something straightforward. Whatever route you do go down, be sure to put a new turbo feed pipe on when...

I have my 1.6 156 and am absolutely chuffed with how it drives, handling and performance. Car has a couple of tiny mods to improve it, cloth seats out and leather electric in. Slight mechanical mods to engine to reduce lag but visually kept stock (not a fan of those silly red/blue silicone air...

You can download the manual here: LINK

Put battery on a long charge, if you have a conditioner charger even better. I would put the most of that down to a discharged battery. The 12.7 you measured is a sign that it probably will take a charge again as the alt pulled it back up.

Welcome to the group. Clutch - Some say they do seem hi, but as i have the z and a 308 (same thing), they both have same bit point, think its just a case of getting used to, unless its really high. At 42k there shouldn’t be any issue with the clutch unless its been….. Head unit - I have an...

I used the stuff below to assist when flushing, descaling etc, think I sort of listed out before, but two extension hoses on the matrix to raise things up a bit for access, funnel in one, pour some of the mixed GAT in let sit 15m, blow out with garden hose, repeat a few times and it really did...

It’s possible one of you engine temperature sensors is faulty, or the split loom for the temp sensors has a wire that is chaffed through earthing down and pulling you canbus communications out. if you can find your way to the thermostat housing and locate the temp sensor on it then follow along...