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I'm sure it is not just the discs & calipers which would had to be replaced. What about the ESP&ABS module? What about the software written to the car's ECU on ESP and ABS modulation? And the master brake cylinder? And the lines? And the brackets? And the hubs? and, and, and. It is doable, but...

Do not allow the pistons to be ever "clean". I mean, do not apply any wheel cleaners when cleaning the rims and keep them always coated with high temperature paste. I did that for years and never had any issues with those OEM pistons. BTW, those discs look horrible.

Is the water pump operating correctly? That thing in the R engine is not only driven by an external force but has also valves inside operated electrically by the ECU.

What's the colour of the coolant? Still clean as new? Do you have any pics?

Welcome!!

I'm also very into this box of fun. And I don't mean what 2retro is referring to... :P But only as a second hand car. I'm not willing to pay the premium the sellers are going to call for it. As this is a Japanese car I hope its second hand prices will dwindle rather quickly over here in ze Germany.

The R engine is forged from factory. It can handle 300 horses. But with a different turbo on it. The stock turbo is good for up to 285 hp.

Welcome and enjoy your RCZ!

Well spoken, sir. I can only second that. Keep the engine oil level at maximum all the time. Not in the middle of the oil stick (where it still is OKish according to the manual). Do not rely on the dashboard info only. Dive under the bonnet and check on that oily stick. Change the oil regularly...

Not advisable at all. Some instability while braking on wet/snow/ice might result from mixing the brands. As long as you do not drive fast (which is hard to do while in Switzerland) you should be fine. Just be a little bit more cautious than usually.

How does posting Audi's "quality" help RCZ R drivers?

Sure. I was always relating to the Alcons on the RCZ R. Other brands might fail. Many years ago I had similar issues on my Honda Prelude. But also sorted it with proper bedding in and wise selection of brake pads. Indeed, it is an annoying issue as most drivers just don't care (or just don't...

Finally. I have been preaching the same thing about so-called "warped discs" year after year. But internet forums wisdoms are hard to fight with. Some guys over here event went for the Tarox discs instead because they would not be prone to "warping". I bet they still did. I will say it once...

You could go for software map on a rolling road. I assume you living in Italy do not have the chance to push the RCZ R at top speed for minutes and minutes on the autostrada. I know, Italians drive faster than allowed on the autostrada :) But there is still a difference if you do like 250 kmh...

The intercooler won't help with the issues I described. Those happen after the fuel was burnt. The IC helps with "issues" before fuel is burnt. By the way, the stock IC on the R is pretty good, IMHO. Sure, it is always good to improve on the intake side as well. But when you go for another...

But... the clatter sound should come from the right wheel arch when running cold. Not from under the bonnet. What I mean is, if you pop up the bonnet you also will hear a lot of the direct fuel injectors. They make a diesel-like sound. But when you pay attention to the right front wheel arch...

Never had issues called as "warped discs" on several sets on those brakes. This thing called "warped discs" is something different and it is tied to the way how you treat your brake discs. The bigger those, the more prone they are to mistreatment. To my knowledge the only change in regards of...

The R engine runs very hot on the exhaust header side when operated on full load for longer time. About 5 minutes of hi speed on autobahn during summer is enough to bring up the temperatures. Your tuner needs to be aware of that. Otherwise by pushing the numbers high you might run into serious...

Hi guys, I fixed those links in my posts about the brakes. The old links were not working because the forum was migrated to another destination without updating the existing links. Not a biggie as it is fixed now.

I had the NG4 on my R. The update procedure is quite the same as on RT6. Format a flash drive with FAT32, put the files from the download on it, fire up the engine, stick it in and follow the instructions on the screen. The file posted up here is only the latest operating system update. After...