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Powder coating is cheaper than cutting indeed. I’ve seen that automatic wheel CNC machines are being developed. Maybe that will lower the price.

Wow, that’s much cheaper than we pay over here. I have 4 R alloys extra and was wondering whether to sell them or keep them to refurbish at later stage...

RCZ-R 17.500km

Nice, I’ve looked into this too, shops here ask 200 euro for a full powdercoat/diamondcut treatment. What does it cost over there?

The big filter is the engine air filter. The cabin filter is to the left of the engine in the bulkhead, but you already replaced that one didn’t you? Those pipes you marked are also part of the engine intake afaik. I don’t know how much oil, if any, is allowed there. I’ll check mine soon.

Well, if you think it’s hot plastic, a culprit could be the blower motor I think. But then it also should occur with cold air… Does the smell get worse on higher blower speeds? Or there is something rotting in your hvac system? Ozone/ClO2 treatment?

Does anybody know if it is possible to let the hvac blower run without running the engine? Maybe hotwire 12V into a fuse or so? I would like to do an interior cleaning with running blower motor, but rather have the car not running.

I replaced the battery, which solved all issues. But it might not even have been necessary. The negative connection was somewhat loose, as was the bolt holding the plus from the battery to the starter. I think the last person who changed the battery did not connect everything as tight as it...

Have you solved it? I had something similar. The battery control module seems to be a possible cause.

A few weeks back it has sat for three weeks straight and started right away. That's what puzzled me, the battery was fine then... The first time this non-starting issue happened was after a 40 minute drive. My guess is the battery is having issues and cannot charge to the full 12.5/12.6V anymore...

I tried to jump it. Connected another car. Did not start, same issue. Started the donor car, still no start. Gave up, shut down donor car, disconnected jump leads and the donor car drove away. I tried one last time, R started right up!? Maybe some under/overvoltage protector kicked in? And...

It‘s only 12.2V fully charged. I’ll try to jump it with another car/battery. If is still behaves like this it’s not the battery. Thanks for ideas. I’ve found the battery control module: 28236841. Maybe I will change it with a AGM.

I have charged the battery using an external charger. It said it’s full. Still just some click and voltage dropping to 11.2V or so.

My R only clicks when I try to start. I therefore strongly suspect the battery, even though it’s just two years old. The previous owner drove only 800 miles or so in that time, that might have messed up the battery. Just for checking, all the lights on the dash stay on during the attempt to...

Mmmm... I was leaning towards an overheating heater blower or so, but then it should also smell with cold air... Does it also smell when set to hot air, with a cold engine?

Is it only with hot air? Did you smell around the engine bay to see if it matches somewhere?

The black one is still on its original tires, like mine. I’m changing them due to age, what would you say, keep the original tires to be able to restore the car to the factory spec, or am I overestimating the future classic-ness of the R?

Nice car! It always amazes me how cheap used cars are in the UK. Must be because of the smaller market of LHD cars?

Excellent solution. I will make something similar. I do propose one change: lifting the car just a little bit inwards from the original location and not halfway the wood. That way most of the weight is on the jacking point, but there’s enough on the rubber to prevent movement and thus preventing...

I downloaded the servicebox and found the p/n: 7481ZJ, Will order and replace.