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No crank, just click

JvdBosch

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My R only clicks when I try to start. I therefore strongly suspect the battery, even though it’s just two years old. The previous owner drove only 800 miles or so in that time, that might have messed up the battery. Just for checking, all the lights on the dash stay on during the attempt to start, but the voltage drops to 11.2V according to the OBD reader and only a click is heard. I find a P0A1A message in the log, indicating a communication failure with the alternator. Related? Still battery? Anybody got some insight in the matter?
 

JvdBosch

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I have charged the battery using an external charger. It said it’s full. Still just some click and voltage dropping to 11.2V or so.
 

Pedro

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Possibly battery control module but get a load test for the cold cranking Amps - Alternator Charge & Starter motor + the actual Battery voltage which is Normal at around 12.6 -14.4v on a healthy fully charged battery
 

JvdBosch

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It‘s only 12.2V fully charged. I’ll try to jump it with another car/battery. If is still behaves like this it’s not the battery. Thanks for ideas. I’ve found the battery control module: 28236841.

Maybe I will change it with a AGM.
 

JvdBosch

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I tried to jump it. Connected another car. Did not start, same issue. Started the donor car, still no start. Gave up, shut down donor car, disconnected jump leads and the donor car drove away. I tried one last time, R started right up!? Maybe some under/overvoltage protector kicked in? And because of the small time the donor car run, it had charged the battery enough? Anyway, I just ordered a new battery, as the current one has very low voltage when full. To be continued…
 

Pedro

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The immobiliser will also cause this issue I would check for a Battery drain just in case ?
 

JvdBosch

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A few weeks back it has sat for three weeks straight and started right away. That's what puzzled me, the battery was fine then... The first time this non-starting issue happened was after a 40 minute drive. My guess is the battery is having issues and cannot charge to the full 12.5/12.6V anymore and the undervoltage protection cuts in. Alternators seems ok, when it started today the OBD indicated 13.8 to 14V, which feels OK, due to the low charge of the battery. But we'll know when the new battery arrives.

I'll try the immobiliser reset, mentioned in the forum here: https://www.peugeotrczforum.com/thr...er-ive-replaced-the-battery.13069/post-169538
 

JvdBosch

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I replaced the battery, which solved all issues. But it might not even have been necessary. The negative connection was somewhat loose, as was the bolt holding the plus from the battery to the starter. I think the last person who changed the battery did not connect everything as tight as it should have been.
 
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