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A few weeks back it has sat for three weeks straight and started right away. That's what puzzled me, the battery was fine then... The first time this non-starting issue happened was after a 40 minute drive. My guess is the battery is having issues and cannot charge to the full 12.5/12.6V anymore...
I tried to jump it. Connected another car. Did not start, same issue. Started the donor car, still no start. Gave up, shut down donor car, disconnected jump leads and the donor car drove away. I tried one last time, R started right up!? Maybe some under/overvoltage protector kicked in? And...
It‘s only 12.2V fully charged. I’ll try to jump it with another car/battery. If is still behaves like this it’s not the battery. Thanks for ideas. I’ve found the battery control module: 28236841.
Maybe I will change it with a AGM.
My R only clicks when I try to start. I therefore strongly suspect the battery, even though it’s just two years old. The previous owner drove only 800 miles or so in that time, that might have messed up the battery. Just for checking, all the lights on the dash stay on during the attempt to...
Mmmm... I was leaning towards an overheating heater blower or so, but then it should also smell with cold air... Does it also smell when set to hot air, with a cold engine?
The black one is still on its original tires, like mine. I’m changing them due to age, what would you say, keep the original tires to be able to restore the car to the factory spec, or am I overestimating the future classic-ness of the R?
Excellent solution. I will make something similar. I do propose one change: lifting the car just a little bit inwards from the original location and not halfway the wood. That way most of the weight is on the jacking point, but there’s enough on the rubber to prevent movement and thus preventing...
I had another look. I think some coolant has spilled on the insulation/lining and has sped up the deterioration. I can mostly piece together the parts, little seems to be missing. The cap of the coolant bottle might not close fully or so? I’ll check this. But I still need to get some new lining.
I thought so first as well, but when I touched the (seemingly ok) black parts on the right, I felt it sticking like I know these foam things can stick when they get older. I think time and heat have had a go at it... Your's is still ok?
I will check if there are other signs of possible rodents.
The lining behind the water bottle has deteriorated over time. Does anybody know the part number? Or am I better off just removing it and replacing it with some generic stuff (any ideas?).
The RCZ R's have a documented issue with pink dust settling in the engine bay, with the heat shield as source. As far as I have found out, the heat shield consist of two pieces of metal with a layer of glass-wool insulation inbetween. Apparently the seal between the two pieces of metal is not...
Ok, thanks. So things like the torque value for the tensioner are in the procedure for the entire chain replacement? My R also had a little rough first seconds after cold start, so I thought to maybe change the tensioner, being so cheap.
Where did you guys get the service manual from? Anybody able to share it? (I have an R, but many other things are the similar between models of course)
I called a THP service company, they checked the car by VIN and said no interval is given by the manufacturer. They suggested to just drive with it and check for rattles each year or so. When I get the car back I will check the pistons, maybe they are still fine. The brake pads have never been...
I had an R 6 years back and sold it. I’m buying it back from the guy I sold it to. It‘s just done 11.000 miles at this point. I’m looking to keep it for a longer time now, and am thinking about (preventive) maintenance and such.
I will order the stainless brake pistons and have that done soon...