Well.. The R broke down..

[jr4070]

Seems the R is no less susceptible to the dreaded engine mananagment "repair needed" warning. 26000 miles on the clock, car driven daily and pop it decides to fail on me. Since I once owned a Mk1 156 that constantly broke down I purchased an obd bluetooth conectable reader(£10)..so..Under aceleration the car stumbled and ran really rough with associated loss of power, twin speed fans and dash warning.. I limped to pub car park, turned it off connected my reader and gained a P1338 code. Took the code, entered it into the search on this site and re affirmed my suspicions that a coil pack had failed. I had taken out a peugeot extended warranty with roadside recovery, I called the number provided and had the AA call me 5 mins later.. I explained the fault, they took down the info and 20 min later a van was with me. The chap listened again to my diagnosis and got a coil pack from the van. He explained it was a standard BMW fitment that would do the job..The car was started, fault cleared down and a bill for £55 cleared. He explained that to claim the money back I would need to return the broken one through Peugeot.. Let the fight begin....I will get a Pug genuine at the same time and keep this one as a spare..... B...cars!

 

[jr4070]

I am now going tbrough the warrenty company to claim back the cost of my coil pack... However.. I think that there is some underlying problem, I accelerated away from a junction today (hot engine),and it felt rough, nowhere near as responsive as it used to..Another point of note was a lumpy hesitation when cold, it was not normal in its warm up cycle. It drove fine until its stumble on acceleration, I backed of and it felt ok for the rest of tbe evening trip home. On the drive i looked for codes on my reader, nothing. Any ideas people...? I'm thinking possible low flow on the HP pump under aceleration..

 

[RCZIain]

Maybe no fault codes, but checking live data may be a good plan.

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[ianGT156]

Maybe no fault codes, but checking live data may be a good plan.

How would you go about doing that? Can you recommend or advise on what type of OBD works well with the Prince platform?

 

[RCZIain]

I have a laptop and diagbox/pp2k. As for anything else, I've no idea.

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[RCZ-R]

I am now going tbrough the warrenty company to claim back the cost of my coil pack... However.. I think that there is some underlying problem, I accelerated away from a junction today (hot engine),and it felt rough, nowhere near as responsive as it used to..Another point of note was a lumpy hesitation when cold, it was not normal in its warm up cycle. It drove fine until its stumble on acceleration, I backed of and it felt ok for the rest of tbe evening trip home. On the drive i looked for codes on my reader, nothing. Any ideas people...? I'm thinking possible low flow on the HP pump under aceleration..

Unfortunately coil packs are that low quality nowadays. Even Denso from Japan does not provide bulletproof quality anymore. My coil pack got replaced after about 3 years of driving at about 80k miles.

For your second issue: yes, your guess might be spot on. Check also my post here (viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9577&start=100#p127730)
You can run a simple test on it. While sitting in idle kick the accelerator instantly and release. Like you'd rev up at the traffic lights challenging the civic type r next to you, hahaha. You don't need to go all the way up to 7k. Just bump the pedal to about 2000 rpms. Then watch closely the rev needle. After the revs start going down the ECU will regulate for the idle speed. In this very moment there should not be any hesitation or shaking of those revs at idle. This is how it'd be: You kick the pedal and let go instantly, engine revs up, revs drop towards 1000 rpm and the ECU catches the rev needle at about 1000 and there it stays. No shaking, like needle going down to 800, then ECU regulates higher and revs up to 1000 and then drops by another 50 and then again and after like 3 "regulation attempts" it sits at about 1000 rpm. No, it has to be a steady process.

Then the final check on the HP pump can be done at the dealer. They can read the pressure and see if it is too low.
On my car the pressure was by about 20 bar too low causing all that trouble.

 

[jr4070]

I am now going tbrough the warrenty company to claim back the cost of my coil pack... However.. I think that there is some underlying problem, I accelerated away from a junction today (hot engine),and it felt rough, nowhere near as responsive as it used to..Another point of note was a lumpy hesitation when cold, it was not normal in its warm up cycle. It drove fine until its stumble on acceleration, I backed of and it felt ok for the rest of tbe evening trip home. On the drive i looked for codes on my reader, nothing. Any ideas people...? I'm thinking possible low flow on the HP pump under aceleration..

Unfortunately coil packs are that low quality nowadays. Even Denso from Japan does not provide bulletproof quality anymore. My coil pack got replaced after about 3 years of driving at about 80k miles.

For your second issue: yes, your guess might be spot on. Check also my post here (viewtopic.php?f=6&t=9577&start=100#p127730)
You can run a simple test on it. While sitting in idle kick the accelerator instantly and release. Like you'd rev up at the traffic lights challenging the civic type r next to you, hahaha. You don't need to go all the way up to 7k. Just bump the pedal to about 2000 rpms. Then watch closely the rev needle. After the revs start going down the ECU will regulate for the idle speed. In this very moment there should not be any hesitation or shaking of those revs at idle. This is how it'd be: You kick the pedal and let go instantly, engine revs up, revs drop towards 1000 rpm and the ECU catches the rev needle at about 1000 and there it stays. No shaking, like needle going down to 800, then ECU regulates higher and revs up to 1000 and then drops by another 50 and then again and after like 3 "regulation attempts" it sits at about 1000 rpm. No, it has to be a steady process.

Then the final check on the HP pump can be done at the dealer. They can read the pressure and see if it is too low.
On my car the pressure was by about 20 bar too low causing all that trouble.

Cheers for the reply RCZ-R. I have tried your suggestions but it does not follow that pattern of faults. Today at 0630 am the car started without fault ( 11 deg OAT so not to cold, no "choke" function so engine went straight to 800 rpm), drove for just over an hour with no problems. I started it again at 1715, ( 13 Deg OAT , car goes straigt to 1500 rpm and drops slightly to 1200 rpm, it appears to be overfueling as there is a significant cracking and popping from the exhaust. This settles down to a normal idle and standard exhaust tone. No throttle input from me at all in all of the start process). Car is then driven for an hour with no degradation at all in performance.... wierd.. I have video to go with this tale, I just need to work out a method of posting it..

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[tianorth]

Put it on onedrive via a hotmail/Microsoft account or the equivalent on gmail and post a link.

Thank Gmail has 15gb of storage.

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[RCZ-R]

@jr4070

The engine warm up you described is typical for euro6 engines. Nothing extraordinary. During this period the engine runs on very rich mixture to quickly heat up the catalyst. Occasional rough running is normal.

The pattern I described is to be checked on a warmed up engine only.

 

[jr4070]

@jr4070

The engine warm up you described is typical for euro6 engines. Nothing extraordinary. During this period the engine runs on very rich mixture to quickly heat up the catalyst. Occasional rough running is normal.

The pattern I described is to be checked on a warmed up engine only.

So...it broke down AGAIN.. It started at 0630 and ran for an hour.. no problems, came to start it at 1700 and it started and idled ok, then 2 mins later the dash warning for engine fault repair needed.... Great. The code this time was P0087. Low fuel rail pressure. Called the AA.. all they could do was reset the code. I then drove 35 miles with no problems.. Tomorrow I am dumping at Peugeot Swindon. I will request a new HPFP, lets see how this progresses... Losing faith fast on another RCZ...

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[JvdBosch]

It's my understanding that R's run a bit rough the first 30 seconds or so. Mine does so as well, this is perfectly normal. Probably due to the euro6-spec RCZ-R was talking about.

I've also seen reports of the HPFP failing, so this is probably also not out of the ordinary. I hope it's fixed quickly and you can go on enjoying the R again (and regain faith )

 

[RCZ-R]

The fuel pump on my R failed too. Symptoms were similar to yours.

 

[jr4070]

Failed again this morning with low fuel rail press warning. It is now with Peugeot Swindon...Lets hope they heed my request to change the HP pump...

 

[RCZIain]

After they've charged you for a diagnostic, obviously.

My local dealer tried charging for a diagnostic to fix a leaking injector seal on my 508 GT. Stupid sods.
Took it somewhere else who actually listened to what I told them.

 

[RCZ-R]

Failed again this morning with low fuel rail press warning. It is now with Peugeot Swindon...Lets hope they heed my request to change the HP pump...

It is very simple for them to check the issue. Hook up to the OBD and start the cold engine. Important, cold engine. Then a higher pressure is required and faults like yours are easier to reproduce.
Wish you good luck! :greetings-wavingblue:

 

[jr4070]

I hardly ever see Z's on my journeys through Wiltshire and Gloustershire. Yesterday whilst waiting for the AA i noticed I was stood two cars down from a white Z.. When The owner came out I jestedcthat I hoped theirs was more reliable than mine.. Then tonight as I drove through Letchlade I was bebind an all black 13 plate Z.. I was in a silver 208.. Typical..No reply from Peugeot yet as to whats up with mine yet...

 

[renegade79]

my 508 GT.

Never seen a 508 GT. Any pics (in a different thread of course) :lol:

 

[RCZIain]

2.2 204 bhp hdi, mucho torque. 6 speed auto. Quite a rapid old bus. I wimped out before the merde hit the fan for diesels and the became worthless.
Also, I didn't think the seats did my back much good on long journeys.

It 90% paid for my Z
Although I had just spent £700 on tyres and a wheel refurb, hey ho!

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[renegade79]

fine bus... :thumbup:

I see you haven't far to stumble home from the pub :lol: :lol:

 

[jr4070]

The R is still in being investigated.. They had a look , cleared the code, road tested and.. got the code back.. On monday they are talking to the warrenty company to ......change the HP fuel pump..