starter clicking and electric warning on dash with stop sign rcz diesel

[danieldavid]

hi anyone who has suggestions that might help solve.

left car parked unlocked for few days, wouldnt start, i charged it at low power on charger and it just started, went for a 20 mile mostly fast drive and thought it would be fine, but again only just started on the second attempt, stopped 5 miles later to get diesel and couldnt start it. thankfully i was right next to an mot garage next door to fuel station and they thankfully helpfully jump packed it and it started. Ive charged the battery to 12.5 volts, ive got it nose to nose with my other rcz diesel and jump leaded the two batteries together, the other one o know starts fine, but still wont start. ive tried a few times to do bsi reset, but it just keeps clicking once loudly when i try to turn over the starter. I think the battery is fine, but for some reason the jump back at that garage seemed to start it first time,m i know they deliver loads of current, but i cant start it so far even with two bateries together. i found a loose nut on the fuse connections of the bpcm, i think thats what its called, it sits on the battery, im guessing it cant be a fuse as the jump pack started it, and cant be the battery as the other rcz starts and ive got them connected together with heavy duty jumpy leads, ive thought of swapping ober the bpcm module with my spare rcz, are there any obvious things i should check, when i drove it the other day, there was power shortage to everything, even though battery fine, warnings for power steering and abs esp which are all electric driven, the power steering was even going heavy. im sure ive reset the bsi correctly from procedure, any suggestions or ideas welcome, thanks ps i cant think it could be the fuse for the starter motor relay as it started with the jump pack the other day by garage.

 

[danieldavid]

on the fuse diagrams the battery charge, power steering and abs esp fuses are all in the bpcm unit. i had this happen nce before a year ago and someone jumped it from a pack, and it just charged up normally after a drive, but this time its not restarting so far. so the bpcm unit wasnt faulty a year ago, im guessing it night be a software issue or code, i need to get software for my opd2 elm little scanner, i only had it on windows xp and my last xp laptop isnt working as its so old. has anyome had to delete codes before to reset, i thought just a bsi reset is supposed to work, i dont know if any codes would be within obd2 list, or extra ones in other scanners.

i checked the starter fuse and bsi fuse but they look fine. i saw a vidoe somewhere if i can find it again where the person removed a plug of wiring for bsi on fuse box under bonet to get it to start on a peugeot. i can try to find that video, but he said that the bsi was carrying out checks that could prevent a start from occuring.

 

[danieldavid]

sorry bpga not bpcm

 

[danieldavid]

i tried bridging the screws with wire on the bpga as it says to online to see if it then starts, but it didnt. Whats even more strange is that theres about 13v across the battery and between live battery and chassis, but only 1.7 volts on the bpga, which rises to 3.5v when i turn the ignition on. I checked the one on my spare rcz and with ignition off, all the connections were at zero. That other rcz starts, though it does pull up the error message about battery, the previous owner had reset the bsi to clear that, and interstingly the passenger window doesnt work on that one whuich ive read can be a result of the reset pricess not competing properly. the joys of french car electrics. in case anyone has experience of this issue, thanks

 

[danieldavid]

ps, if the starter is clicking or the relay is clicking, does anyone know if the relay is seperate and might have failed, or if the starter might have failed if it makes one click

 

[danieldavid]

thankfully got my ancient basic elm327 to load on a windows 10 laptop. Will try to read codes tommorow. If i was looking for a cheap scanner that covers pretty much everything diy level, eloys fluid, ebs, on top of basic codes, and chassis and body codes not just engine codes, is there a particular scanner anyone would recommend?

 

[Verminator]

Sounds like a good idea to get a new battery as the Hdi do need a good voltage to kick start it.. If you have had to just it off check the white fuse in the fuse box.. If fuse is OK could well be down to the battery module on top of the battery check all the fuses there to..
Hope this helps you out
Drive safe and stay lucky
Les n Co

 

[danieldavid]

thanks Les, i just tried it again after leaving it for a couple of days, it still has 12.64v in the battery, i managed to wire up the multimeter and its only dropping to 11.67v when trying to start it, it makes a loud click, then another when i release the key from the turn. It started the other day when a garage put a jump pack on, but i just wired up again the battery in my spare rcz and it still just clicks. So im guessing the battery is ok, the starter is ok, i checked the fuse f8 for starter, it looked fine with no signs of burn, when you say the white fuse im guessing you dont mean f14, thats the only white one on the diagram, im guessing you mean the fuse in the bpga. I might be wrong but i thought that was part of the bpgm and cant be changed. I tried bridging the screws at the front of the bpgm but it still didnt start, so im guessing its not the bpgm. I tried to clear codes with my old fashioned elm327, but its not finding the car for some reason, tried loads of port and baud rate combinations, the only time this ever happened before a year ago, the person then checked and i think cleared codes to reset the car before jumping it. I could swap the bpgm with the one on my other rcz that does start,, but i dont think thats the problem. im wondering if there are codes blocking it. When i put the ignition on i get the coiled wire display on the dash, i dont think this is normal for ignition, it dissapears when i try to turn the starter then comes back. I dont think the earth can be bad as i can read the battery voltage from the chasis to pos terminal on the battery, unless its preventing current transfer. The click is so loud, i dont think its the battery, but i might be wrong, especially given that ive put jumpy leads to my other rcz battery. If ive bridged the two nuts/bolts at fromt of bpgm and ,it still doesnt start, but it does with a jump pack, would you think that rules out the bpgm as the issue. Its been ages since i used the elm327, i think it s supposed to read codes with just the ignition on, i dont think it has to have engine running, i cant start it presently, this might be why i cant connect to see the codes... many thanks again

 

[danieldavid]

les i eventually thankfully got my prehistoric elm327 to work, gave codes p1349, p1350 and p1351, and mil, i cleared them, but it still clicks and doesnt start but now i notice the internal light is starting to dim a bit, ive put it on charge. im tempted to just buy a new battery, but the battery in my spare rcz is almost new and ive used jump leads to connect to it so wouldnt have thought it was that, but given it started with a jump pack, it does seem to be the battery. The day it first never started was the day the mil came on when i charged it. codes are variable valve timing, ignition control module, and voltage in ignition control moduke. That might have been me bridging the contaxcts on the bpga, i suspect these arent the issue, but whether there are other codes i cany see with elm327 that are stopping it starting. I might have to buy a better diagnostic tool. I could try charging up the other rcz battery as well and connecting them both together. If this fails i might swap over the bpga units.

 

[danieldavid]

ps, for bsi reset, does anyone know if you have to disconnect the negative battery terminal, or is it enough to disconnect just the positive for the minimum time?thanks