Poor Performance on 2.0HDi

[2retro]

I'm just happy the word 'fart' has been mentioned so many times in this thread! :lol:

 

[Anonymous]

I took a number of pictures in case it helps anyone else. The EGR is not to bad a job to get out, you do not need to remove the inlet manifold as long as you are not shy of bending the EGR pipe to inlet manifold out of the way and then bending it back into place afterwards.

It took me about 30 minutes to get it out (including fag, coffee and head scratch on how to do it) and about 15 mins to reinstall it.

Cleaning it took around 45 mins (including another fag and soaking it in EGR cleaner)

Just one word of warning though, the cooler exchange (the long box bit) is part of the cooling system, so you will lose coolant when you remove it, so be prepared to top up the coolant as required. Yes you could drain the coolant to start with, but hey ho I thought it would be easier just to top it up with the amount I lost rather than fannying about.

 

[Anonymous]

I thought I had bought 2.0 Hdi 2011 model - But unless they have changed something perhaps I haven't !
As you can probably guess my knowledge of things under the bonnet is not great.
However my photo seems to be missing some parts that are in yours.

 

[frankvdb]

Thanks you for the help guys.

The picture shows the two inlet pipes taken from the front of the car.

The one on the left is the intercooler bypass, the one on the right is the one from the intercooler.

As can be seen there is no plug into the butterfly control on the bypass.

What do you have???

Looks like both pipes are connected in mine:

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the reply's guys.

The plot thickens then!!!

Seems we have three 2.0HDi that are all different under the bonnet. No wonder I am confused as to what should be there and connected :roll:

 

[Anonymous]

I just hope that someone out there can explain why this is the case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mason5465sharon09]

My 2ltr is the same as frank vdb interesting.

 

[renegade79]

Here's mine!

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys, ive not had chance to progress this, other than in thoughts! Currently looking into the ECU signals for RPM to see if I can find a way to open the bypass valve until 2000rpm. If I can get that or determine a vacuum solution then i think i may be able to achieve what i am looking for - however, I am still aware I am trying to engineer a solution to a problem that never existed until recently, so something aint right!

I'm going to take the car off the road for a few months and put our MX5 back on, its not been out for 2 years so deserves a run and after banging my bloody head yet again getting into the RCZ today, Ithink me and 'it' need a break from each other to preserve its overall well being!

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Guys

Thought it was time to give you an update on the pain in my life, but enough about the wife and onto the RCZ

After taking a sabbatical from it, I returned to it with renewed enthusiasm over Christmas and have finally got somewhere.

The "standard" RCZ with both the air doser pipes connected AND the electronic flaps connected both to the vacuum circuit and the wiring loom will have 4 vacuum control solenoids positioned in the most inaccessible place at the back of the engine. This was my first enlightenment as ours only has 3 as the intercooler bypass is not hooked up on ours although the pipework is there.

That said, it doesn't cause an issue. What my problem seemed to be was the turbo wastegate was not operating as it should, nor was the EGR. In deducing this, I believed it must be something to do with the vacuum as neither was working. Therefore the hunt went on for the cause.

Armed with a suitable vacuum gauge, I tested at various points on the circuit. I was getting strong vacuum at source but nothing at the solenoids. Ha, I thought, easy enough, it must be a split in a pipe, so I went through the pipework and continued checking all the pipes - all were perfect.

It them dawned on me that the pipework goes into the back section of the inlet manifold!

So, here is what I did....

I got bit of tubing and a couple of connectors and made a new vacuum circuit from the source, through to the three solenoids and hooked it all up, bypassing the inlet manifold section. Started the engine and went for a drive and bu66er me, the car started to pull strongly again.

I then remapped the ECU with the EGR closed and deleted and gave it some more boost and fuel through the range (amongst other things ) and the car now goes very much better all the way through. I've a few error codes left, but nothing that is concerning me and even the cruise control now works. The EML hasn't come back on and the fuel consumption has improved by around 20% even with me booting it everywhere.

Soooo, what have I concluded. Well nothing much except that Peugeot over complicated things, made the engine impossible to work on and even the official workshop manual is hopeless as it makes no reference to the variations that we released lol!

If anyone has an engine problem on one of these, especially turbo or power related, by all means feel free to contact me and I will try and help as its been a very steep and involved learning process for me!

 

[renegade79]

:text-goodpost:

 

[UncleBen]

:text-goodpost:

Hi Anonymous. This has been very informative, as I too have been bemused by the doser valve set up. My one is as yours, no electrical connection to bypass side.
My z has had the farts ever since I bought it, without any adverse effects, and I can't seem to hear the noise from the solenoid that you refer to. However I have recently experienced a lack of pulling through the range and am at a loss. I recently had the dpf cleaned which had put the car into safe mode. That fault is now clear.
You also mentioned that your cruise control was once again working, my cruise control has stopped working.
I still don't get this whole inter cooler bypass, if it is not controlled. I have also noticed that when the engine is revved the bypass hose from the doser sucks in and completely collapses.
I guess I need more clarification and understanding on this system.
I will be checking my vacuume hoses as described, but why do they enter the manifold? is it simply a distribution point.
I guess I'm happy to have a fix for something, but I also want to understand why things are configured the way they are.
Initially I thought the collapsing hose was my issue, but after reading this thread, I'm now not so sure.
Can you describe more accurately the location of the solenoid valve, as I haven't found it yet, do I need to be looking from under the car with the belly pan off.

Appreciate any words of wisdom offered.

 

[UncleBen]

P.S. forgot to give the fault codes I'm currently getting

 

[Cycle Guy]

P.S. forgot to give the fault codes I'm currently getting

Here is a picture of the back of the inlet manifold and the pipes that have been bypassed are the ones that connect to the spigot on the electro valves that is under the blue part on the right of the vales and remove the ones that go into the inlet manifold

 

[Pedro]

They suffer with oil blockages & carbon build up
Poor servicing can be big factor on diesels

 

[Cycle Guy]

They suffer with oil blockages & carbon build up
Poor servicing can be big factor on diesels

Would you happen to know why the first Tee piece on the left between the first and second electro valve is a a reducing tee as the left side of that tee has only a very small hole inside where the right side of that Tee is full bore ?

 

[Pedro]

They look like Vac boost solenoid valves?

 

[Rafik]

Here is a picture of the back of the inlet manifold and the pipes that have been bypassed are the ones that connect to the spigot on the electro valves that is under the blue part on the right of the vales and remove the ones that go into the inlet manifold

Hi @Cycle Guy,

Great picture and I am hoping to see the same out of my rcz to change the turbo boost solenoids.

Could you remove the back of the inlet manifold without having to get the engine out ?

There is no space there so I was thinking I would ask.

Thanks in advance,
Rafik

 

[Cycle Guy]

Hi @Cycle Guy,

Great picture and I am hoping to see the same out of my rcz to change the turbo boost solenoids.

Could you remove the back of the inlet manifold without having to get the engine out ?

There is no space there so I was thinking I would ask.

Thanks in advance,
Rafik

Hi there rafik the inlet manifold is just one large piece that comes off as one it is a little involved to remove but if you are competent I is just a case of taking your time and once off it will give you a chance to clean all the carbon deposit that it will have on it

 

[Tera0eV]

Hi Anonymous. This has been very informative, as I too have been bemused by the doser valve set up. My one is as yours, no electrical connection to bypass side.
My z has had the farts ever since I bought it, without any adverse effects, and I can't seem to hear the noise from the solenoid that you refer to. However I have recently experienced a lack of pulling through the range and am at a loss. I recently had the dpf cleaned which had put the car into safe mode. That fault is now clear.
You also mentioned that your cruise control was once again working, my cruise control has stopped working.
I still don't get this whole inter cooler bypass, if it is not controlled. I have also noticed that when the engine is revved the bypass hose from the doser sucks in and completely collapses.
I guess I need more clarification and understanding on this system.
I will be checking my vacuume hoses as described, but why do they enter the manifold? is it simply a distribution point.
I guess I'm happy to have a fix for something, but I also want to understand why things are configured the way they are.
Initially I thought the collapsing hose was my issue, but after reading this thread, I'm now not so sure.
Can you describe more accurately the location of the solenoid valve, as I haven't found it yet, do I need to be looking from under the car with the belly pan off.

Appreciate any words of wisdom offered.

I was just messing about with my EGR today and tired to blank it off and I ended up getting my "Intercooler bypass" pipe to collapse in the end.

Funnily enough I was doing the timing belt the week before and per the manual it says to the air union (pictured). It goes from the turbo to the intercooler & "bypass".




This guy is has Y at the end one going to the intercooler and the other straight to the air manifold. When I disconnected the bypass pipe, oil and crap came out of it. I was worried thinking it was coming from the turbo or something, but it turns out it's blanked on that side. The air union only goes to the intercooler and never to the bypass. So when some of the HDis have no bypass pipe on the manifold side, neighter do the others but it just blanked at the end of the pipe in the air union.

So strangely the engine only gets fresh air from the turbo otherwise it comes from the EGR, I think. Although I don't know, can fresh air come from the EGR when the butterfly valve is open?