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Newbie looking for an R

AlBuck

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Hi all,

Since being ULEZ'd I've been looking for a 200 but realised the R is within reach if I can get one at 10-12K, and have yet to find any reason not to buy one instead!
I came on the forum hoping to find the definitive buyer's guide, and expected to find a lot more problems with the R than I have on here, it having such high performance from a 1600 engine.
Any pointers will be welcome, especially if it leads me to a good R, preferably black!

Cheers

Al.
 
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Claret63

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Hi all,

Since being ULEZ'd I've been looking for a 200 but realised the R is within reach if I can get one at 10-12K, and have yet to find any reason not to buy one instead!
I came on the forum hoping to find the definitive buyer's guide, and expected to find a lot more problems with the R than I have on here, it having such high performance from a 1600 engine.
Any pointers will be welcome, especially if it leads me to a good R, preferably black!

Cheers

Al.
Full service history essential, don’t consider without, also ensure front disc and callipers are absolutely tip top, callipers seize inboard so check the surface of the disc to confirm.

Wheels also need to be factory finish as you only get a couple of shots generally at diamond cutting, finally check all under trays and plastic arches are present and not damaged. Not sure whether your budget is enough though to get one that doesn’t need work, unless someone needs a quick sale.

I am sure others will have other pointers, choose carefully and stay away from anything modded. Good luck in your search.
 
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ducatidai1098

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Hi all,

Since being ULEZ'd I've been looking for a 200 but realised the R is within reach if I can get one at 10-12K, and have yet to find any reason not to buy one instead!
I came on the forum hoping to find the definitive buyer's guide, and expected to find a lot more problems with the R than I have on here, it having such high performance from a 1600 engine.
Any pointers will be welcome, especially if it leads me to a good R, preferably black!

Cheers

Al.
One for sale on flea Bay as I type. Looks a nice bit of kit but you may have to stretch your budget a tad - I happily attached the link below

Good luck

 

Pedro

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Only look at it with the engine stone cold it has been known for the fan to be on when these engines are thrashed from a cold start to warm them up quicker?
 

AlBuck

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Full service history essential, don’t consider without, also ensure front disc and callipers are absolutely tip top, callipers seize inboard so check the surface of the disc to confirm.

Wheels also need to be factory finish as you only get a couple of shots generally at diamond cutting, finally check all under trays and plastic arches are present and not damaged. Not sure whether your budget is enough though to get one that doesn’t need work, unless someone needs a quick sale.

I am sure others will have other pointers, choose carefully and stay away from anything modded. Good luck in your search.
Thanks for the tips.

Are the discs and callipers particularly expensive then?

Are there any tell tale signs of previous wheel refurbishment?

I was expecting engine/turbo problems on such a high performance engine, am I wrong to be getting the impression they must be pretty shotproof if maintained properly?

Is there a way of checking authenticity of the service record if there aren't receipts etc for any works?
 
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Claret63

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Thanks for the tips.

Are the discs and callipers particularly expensive then?

Are there any tell tale signs of previous wheel refurbishment?

I was expecting engine/turbo problems on such a high performance engine, am I wrong to be getting the impression they must be pretty shotproof if maintained properly?

Is there a way of checking authenticity of the service record if there aren't receipts etc for any works?
Budget at least £800 for a pair of disc, 2k for callipers unless you can refurbish, they seize period due the pistons being chrome plated, my calliper’s were done under the extended warranty with Peugeot, not disc though.

The calliper situation amongst other things can quickly make you fall out with an R, you will find most cars that are for sale need the front brakes doing, you could use as a bargaining tool to get well within your budget.

Engine wise they are strong providing they are serviced correctly and the oil level is kept on top off, consumables over time will be timing chain and HPFP to me that’s normal.

Also many mistake timing chain noise for water pump tensioner and flywheel, mine has just been done under warranty.

Wheels check the depth of the R motif, there will be no depth to it if the wheels have been cut a couple of times.

service record just check with the garage in the normal way.

Finally I would drive an R before you decide, it’s night and day to a 200 not for everyone as it’s real hard core as a drivers car, hard suspension and totally different gearing, you have to remember its set up as a track car.

Mine is a weekend car for that special drive, not sure I could make it work as a daily but there are plenty who do.
 

Kerr

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Thanks for the tips.

Are the discs and callipers particularly expensive then?

Are there any tell tale signs of previous wheel refurbishment?

I was expecting engine/turbo problems on such a high performance engine, am I wrong to be getting the impression they must be pretty shotproof if maintained properly?

Is there a way of checking authenticity of the service record if there aren't receipts etc for any works?

The front brakes are very expensive. Genuine discs from Peugeot Parts direct have gone up in price recently. They are over £1000. Pug1off do discs and bells for £580.

The parts to rebuild the calipers are about £250 from them. The standard pistons corrode and seize within the caliper. They are replaced with stainless steel pistons.

There won't be many 9-11 year old cars that won't have had the wheels refurbished.
 

Kerr

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Budget at least £800 for a pair of disc

Fish Brothers have put their price up to £504 per disc.

Pug1off do discs for £580. They also advertise the Tarox discs for £974. Tarox direct are £1240.
 

Claret63

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Fish Brothers have put their price up to £504 per disc.

Pug1off do discs for £580. They also advertise the Tarox discs for £974. Tarox direct are £1240.
Wow! They have gone up! great brakes though and worth every penny in my opinion.

I do think though the design of the original disc offers better cooling than something with bells.
 

AlBuck

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Wow! Some of those prices are scary!

I'm talking to a dealer re a 2 owner 88,000 2014 for 10k, he, assures me there's FSH with a lot of receipts including a recent water pump, but without going through them myself I don't can't be sure what's there. he did say that they have had the wheels refurbished.

I'm trying to make sure it's worth a 300+ mile round trip by train!
 
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AlBuck

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The front brakes are very expensive. Genuine discs from Peugeot Parts direct have gone up in price recently. They are over £1000. Pug1off do discs and bells for £580.

The parts to rebuild the calipers are about £250 from them. The standard pistons corrode and seize within the caliper. They are replaced with stainless steel pistons.

There won't be many 9-11 year old cars that won't have had the wheels refurbished.
Great tips, thanks! (y)
 

AlBuck

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Budget at least £800 for a pair of disc, 2k for callipers unless you can refurbish, they seize period due the pistons being chrome plated, my calliper’s were done under the extended warranty with Peugeot, not disc though.

The calliper situation amongst other things can quickly make you fall out with an R, you will find most cars that are for sale need the front brakes doing, you could use as a bargaining tool to get well within your budget.

Engine wise they are strong providing they are serviced correctly and the oil level is kept on top off, consumables over time will be timing chain and HPFP to me that’s normal.

Also many mistake timing chain noise for water pump tensioner and flywheel, mine has just been done under warranty.

Wheels check the depth of the R motif, there will be no depth to it if the wheels have been cut a couple of times.

service record just check with the garage in the normal way.

Finally I would drive an R before you decide, it’s night and day to a 200 not for everyone as it’s real hard core as a drivers car, hard suspension and totally different gearing, you have to remember its set up as a track car.

Mine is a weekend car for that special drive, not sure I could make it work as a daily but there are plenty who do.
Great tips, thanks! (y)
 

Claret63

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Wow! Some of those prices are scary!

I'm talking to a dealer re a 2 owner 88,000 2014 for 10k, he, assures me there's FSH with a lot of receipts including a recent water pump, but without going through them myself I don't can't be sure what's there. he did say that they have had the wheels refurbished.

I'm trying to make sure it's worth a 300+ mile round trip by train!
That car according to the MOT history is showing blue smoke on acceleration, tread very carefully.
 

AlBuck

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That car according to the MOT history is showing blue smoke on acceleration, tread very carefully.
Yes that doesn't sound good unless it was sorted, but as it was only last year he would have mentioned the work being done, and if the dealer got the MOT it could have been "missed" and still be there...
 

AlBuck

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There may be enough on this thread already to turn me back towards a 200! :ROFLMAO:
 

Kerr

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The blue smoke warning would scare me off that car. I'd be definitely needing proof that something had been repaired to stop that. There was an oil leak earlier in the MOT history.

The front brakes are the big one. Just about every R or 308 GTi that comes up for sale is needing the front brakes done. I don't think a lot of people have been made aware of the costs before buying the cars. People don't believe the cost of the brakes expecting Peugeot prices.

I've had mine for 5 years. Outside regular servicing I've had a few bills. I've had my calipers rebuilt and had to change the discs. I've had Ferodo DS2500 and EBC bluestuff pads. Bluestuff are around £160 and DS2500 £220.

My timing chain was replaced. That's about £800-1000.

My HPFP failed. They all do. There is a man on eBay that refurbishes them for £160.

My engine mounts were replaced. I can't remember what that cost.

The camshaft oil seal failed a few years back. I did get a real fright with that. The oil landed on the exhaust and the amount of smoke that came out the back made me think my engine had just blown up.

My alternator failed before Christmas.
 

AlBuck

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The blue smoke warning would scare me off that car. I'd be definitely needing proof that something had been repaired to stop that. There was an oil leak earlier in the MOT history.

The front brakes are the big one. Just about every R or 308 GTi that comes up for sale is needing the front brakes done. I don't think a lot of people have been made aware of the costs before buying the cars. People don't believe the cost of the brakes expecting Peugeot prices.

I've had mine for 5 years. Outside regular servicing I've had a few bills. I've had my calipers rebuilt and had to change the discs. I've had Ferodo DS2500 and EBC bluestuff pads. Bluestuff are around £160 and DS2500 £220.

My timing chain was replaced. That's about £800-1000.

My HPFP failed. They all do. There is a man on eBay that refurbishes them for £160.

My engine mounts were replaced. I can't remember what that cost.

The camshaft oil seal failed a few years back. I did get a real fright with that. The oil landed on the exhaust and the amount of smoke that came out the back made me think my engine had just blown up.

My alternator failed before Christmas.
Cheers, I'm so glad I posted here today, I didn't realise the huge difference between the 200 and the R, it seems nearly everything is specialised and expensive, which is probably what has has kept the secondhand values lower than you would expect for this calibre of car!

I don't do a lot of mileage but it is going to be used as my everyday car, so maybe the 200 is a better bet, but I've fell in love with the R!
 
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Claret63

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There may be enough on this thread already to turn me back towards a 200! :ROFLMAO:
I will get shot for saying this, but the bracket you are spending in you would be better with a TTs, yes it will be older but it will do all the daily stuff so much better given the state of the roads in the UK, and you will have similar performance to an R.

There is a guy on here from Germany, RCZ-R who in my opinion is the only one who has driven an R to its full potential on a daily basis, that’s on the autobahn where a car like the R can really excel.

I would personally choose the HDI over the 200 but sadly not ULEZ.
 

AlBuck

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I will get shot for saying this, but the bracket you are spending in you would be better with a TTs, yes it will be older but it will do all the daily stuff so much better given the state of the roads in the UK, and you will have similar performance to an R.

There is a guy on here from Germany, RCZ-R who in my opinion is the only one who has driven an R to its full potential on a daily basis, that’s on the autobahn where a car like the R can really excel.

I would personally choose the HDI over the 200 but sadly not ULEZ.
Yes I read the HDI is the best for an everyday car, that engine is bullet proof, but with the same ULEZ problem as my A3 Sport.
 

Charlie1875

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As already said, the blue smoke at mot time is a definite red flag for me, I buy many minis/ds3/Peugeots with the psa prince engine and these engines suffer from valve guide seal issues and carbon build up issues hence the blue smoke, at around your budget other than that you want proof of timing chain replacement, new brakes and caliper refurbishment, hpfp replacement and of course a decent service recor.

don’t give up on an R, the positives cheaper to tax than a 200bhp, insurance is reasonable and good on fuel if treated well, and of course rare as hell,

I use my R for mainly leisure and love it.

good luck mate.
 
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