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The original bulbs are not LED.

I also had a buzz caused by a shorted LED bulb. It was one of the ones under the doors. In my case the buzz was heard at the door. As I already said in another therad, avoid those LED lamps. Remove them all and replace the original incandescent ones, which can continue to be bought without...

The possible problem with LED bulbs is that by consuming much less the ECU believes that they are not working. You should avoid bulbs like the ones in the photo since they can be crossed and short-circuited since they do not have any protrusion between the contacts. If you want something safe...

Get a used 17" Peugeot 407 wheel with a 215/55 tire, the diameter is almost the same as the ones on the RCZ. It cost me only 50€ It fits perfectly in the space under the trunk without raising the floor and without having to deflate it. For RCZ THP 156HP and HDI it can be mounted on the front...

Yes, if it is not present it is harder to press it . When I bought my car the spring was there but not attached to the pedal. I managed to reposition it and the improvement was clear.

It also says HCA on my blade, but for sure it's different from yours. If the case is changed, the old blade should be reused. It is disassembled by removing a small pin that it has.

I had a problem with a Chinese LED bulb for the interior lighting that the previous owner had installed. The bulb had moved and was shorting out. I reinstalled the original incandescent lamps that he also gave me.

I think that should refer to old keyfobs, I have disconnected the car battery several times and changed the keyfob battery and it has worked again without doing anything else, except for the poor contact problem explained above. Same with the 2006 Citroen I had.

With a 2006 Citroen that I had before, with an almost identical key, at the end, I had to solder a fine insulated wire between the battery contact spring and where it should connect in the electronic circuit. Years later I changed the key casing (they sell it on amazon) and it worked again...

Tense the springs of the battery contacts a little and clean the contact areas with alcohol and no longer touch them with your fingers. The electrical connection of that battery is usually problematic.

In the maintenance book of my 2010 THP 156HP, in the recommended oils, the graphic on the left suggests that more viscous oils can be used in warmer climates. Here the thermometer almost never drops below 0C. In the next oil change I will put 5W40, I hope that the oil consumption will be...

Without knowing the fault codes, little can be said. You can buy an ODB II connector with bluetooth and and with a mobile free application like Torque you can see the codes. Also erase them so the light turns off.

All cars sold from September 2015 in the EU had to comply with Euro 6, both diesel and gasoline. The last RCZ produced were manufactured in September 2015. Perhaps they stopped production for not complying with Euro 6?

Cars with JBL have the corresponding logo on the door speakers

That photo is almost impossible to take in Barcelona, you can be driving every day and most likely you won't see any RCZ in months.

Try cleaning the two pressure sensors. One is between the intercooler and the throttle body, very easy to remove. The other one is in the intake manifold, to access it you have to remove the air filter box. They can be cleaned with a contact cleaner spray.

The stock intake system is already efficient, don't expect any improvement with that filter.

Or someone spilled some oil when pouring it. Clean it well and wait to see if it comes back.

Exactly, hotter means less mass of air, plus that closed curve in the intake and that complicated path to reach the entrance of the red tube makes the passage of air even more difficult. That air intake is definitely worse than the original one.

There are two motor versions, with or without position memory