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I wouldn’t say simple, but yes that’s it. Damp cloth does a couple of things, adds moisture and quench cools. Damp not sopping. You have to take your time and gradually warm the leather up, continuously damping and being cautious not to overheat as this can dry and crack/burn the leather. Not...

The doors and the glass are, can’t see why they would have changed the working gubbins.

Hmm, my RCZ has just recently turned 61k…….so I am looking coil packs in the face, forewarned and all that… The pile of ‘just in case’ or ..usually around xx miles’ I have put together is ever growing since I had to wait 5 weeks for handbrake cables from Peugeot. At least the coils are common...

Hi thanks for the screen shot, gives me a thread to follow. I have the memory module and can communicate with it thru BSI and showing all ecu’s, and can see the three memory buttons activate When pushed, so know it’s operating and communicating. However reading that wee bit of info in green I...

Gliptone GT11 and GT15, leather cleaner and conditioner. To unstretch the seats damp cloth and a 600deg heat gun, after which they got conditioned again to ensure the hides didn’t get dried. Bolster was repainted with leather dye and an airbrush after cleaning, before conditioner.

Okay I have seen posts for this in the past but they have never been concluded, kind of see why now. i just bought a fairly decent black leather electric interior. Spent a bit of time when I got it giving it a full clean and retouching a little bit of lost colour on the drivers bolster before...

Did you get sorted? There is a fuse box in the glovebox behind a little square cover, with a plastic screw that you turn thru 90deg to remove. There is another fuse box in the engine bay in front of the battery ….but when I look at the detail list it doesn’t mention the spoiler specifically…odd...

It’s the same as the 308 mk1 and mk2 if that helps broaden your search, bound to be a local breaker, breaking one or other. if not you could search eBay for rcz parts and then ask seller a question option. I’ve done that a few times to get bits not actually listed.

Hope this pic helps, sorry it took me so long….it honestly just went out of my mind .

It may be that the timing is slightly out. Putting the timing chain lock up kit in will identify this by the fact that in inlet cam lock doesn’t go ‘flat’. In the tech info it refers to using a chain tensioning tool set to 6nm (I think) Whicker when all torqued up and the actual chain tensioner...

Ouch….

You might have an additional fault you haven’t picked up on as yet As you mentioned it comes on, on corners. I would check your wheel bearings, as play can lead to the sensors leaning in on the reluctor ring. Then I’d be checking that the ring and the sensor aren’t damaged or worn. There is also...

Whenever the chain wears (some say stretched) it can be enough for the timing to move enough to throw codes. With you having rattling and codes I’d be in the change it soon line of thinking. i did both my RCZ and 308cc at 50k miles as don’t want an engine bill, I also change the oil every 6k or...

If of any use, I have an android unit (Xtron IA) in my 308cc, same car in most ways. No issues with it, no fault codes created from it either. the only thing is that if I disconnect the battery and have to set the dash top clock I have to use the old radio, so for 6 months of the year it’s right...

From what i can see and looking at my own, you’ve got chipped paint. poss from someone doing the timing chain. The scuffed area is the frame of the car to which the mount goes on. when it stops raining I’ll post a pic of mine for reference.

I know the thread is old, OP probably now driving a Tesla and moved on BUT here’s hoping, did you ever get the heated seat part to go? If so was it thru PP2000? Just done the same conversion and as much as I am happy with the seats and seat movement function, it would be nice to warm my butt...