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I have a few sets of NOS Pagid front brake pads and sensors for the 200BHP RCZ if anyone is interested. The boxes are tatty and /or damaged. £35 per set including postage or you’re welcome to collect in Bromley for £30 if you’re local.

You don’t need to lock up the cams or crank to change the tensioner however it’ll be a good idea to check if the chain has stretched with the tool that is in the locking set. It could also just need an oil change with good oil if it hasn’t in a while

Check the 10A fuse F6 in the engine bay, the 25A F4 fuse over the battery and the 40A midi fuse F10 also over the battery. From there move to the wheel sensors as Pedro suggests. You’ll need a way to read the codes to quickly identify which sensor is faulty.

What is the problem you’re having? Airbag light? From your first picture it makes me think it’s referring to the two impact sensors under the bonnet hinges.

5l/100km or 47mpg sounds good if not great to be fair. Are you sure there is a problem?

Have you tried partsinmotion.co.uk? I’ve found the site very useful to cross reference part numbers. https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car-parts/cooling-heating/thermostat/vehicle/peugeot/rcz/rcz/peuge-rcz-1

I didn’t undo or remove anything but if you do it may give you a little more room.

Replaced one on my first RCZ and you can just about get to it from underneath the car but it’s a squeeze for the arms between the oil sump and exhaust. I’d suspect the correct way of doing it is to remove the inlet manifold and work from the top.

I use the ThinkDiag OBD reader with the iOS app. It’s an excellent bit of kit which punches way above its price point.

The friction wheel engages via an electrically operated tensioner/pulley so no it wouldn’t be constant

Have you had the water pump friction wheel and tensioner checked out? They can be noisy when worn and sound like knocking

Pedro is absolutely correct it being throttle body issues. I replaced mine a few weeks ago and the issue is gone but I did it myself. Throttle body was £55.

Seeing as you mention you’ve done the timing chain, I’d check to see if the timing chain tensioner is tightened up and make sure the sealing ring is there, or just replace the seal ring again and tighten back up. Part number is 0829G9.

Could be the 10A fuse F6 which is for the ABS/ESP control unit, had this on mine. Could also just be an ABS sensor.

Another update. Cylinder 3 was down on compression so head off and found a burnt exhaust valve. Can anyone recommend a decent place to recondition the head?

Quick update.. cleared out all the codes and only two came back initially. P0087 and P0268. Fuelling issue as suspected, will start with the fuel injector in cylinder 3. Not sure HPFP is at fault just yet

My project car arrived last night and I must say overall I’m rather happy with the site unseen purchase. It’s a 2010 156 GT in silver grey with 142k miles on the clock. It’s stood for over three years since the MOT expired in 2019 was a clean bill of health. I was expecting way worse...

I have a silver mk1 156 being delivered later today. It’s meant to be a weekend project but we can talk. DM me.

Yes mate, dm me. It’s also up on eBay if it’s easier

also get some decent rubber on each corner if it doesn’t have