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My engine fan was knackered.

My engine cooling fan wasn't working.

Yes, last year the temp gauge went into the red with the warning engine temp fault. I changes the temp sensor twice, housing and module by the radiator to no joy. Took the fan off and tested it and wasn't working, i replaced with a fan off a 3008 and problem solved.

May need to replace the fan on my 2.0 diesel, what is the code for the fan i've seen lots on Ebay with different numbers plus some fit numerous vehicles. Can someone give a number for the correct fan or car I can get one from.

Okay changed thermostat and housing and another sensor just incase, same story. I have checked wiring from the ECU, skin colour cable No 1366 5v from pin 2.3v from cable at connector. Yellow cable I take it as earth as no voltage just continuity.

Ah right makes sense, just bought one so fingers crossed(y)

Thanks for your answer Pedro, what points you to the thermostat? is there a sensor in the housing?

Okay i'll keep this short, have the dreaded engine temp fault gauge goes straight into the red seconds after starting hot or cold. I have changed the sensor and also the connector plug but problem still exists. If get the car up to temp and just put the ignition on the gauge reads properly...

Yes that is what I get, it happens almost as soon as I start the car. When the engine gets warm and turn the ignition off then back to position two (all dash lights on but haven't turned it over) the temp gauge is normal. Soon as I start it the error message, I have put an OBD scanner on it no...

Okay so a few weeks back the car started to go straight into the red after around 10 secs after I started the engine, all hoses and rad get hot as it should and the heating works, today I changed the temp sensor in the thermostat housing only to still have the fault. Does anyone have any idea...

Okay just to follow on I have done this change, the engine bay is tight, very tight and can be a right pain. I tried to remove the crankshaft bolt without fixing the fly wheel, videos show once it's broke the bolt comes out well mine didn't. I used a power bar and the belt jumped on the...

I have had experience with this, normally Redex DPF cleaner will do the job just put half a tank of diesel in the car and put half the bottle in. Go for a 20/30 mile drive and a steady 50/60 mph and that did the job. The last time my car went into limp mode, this time I put Millers Power eco max...

A few weeks back the temp gauge in the car went from normal into the red with the associated dash warning, it then righted itself. Yesterday immediately after starting the car cold it went straight into the red, I drove the car today for a while then felt the cooling pipes and radiator and both...

Can someone point me in the direction of the Eolys fluid reservoir, I think mine needs toping up but not sure where to find it. Thanks

You need to undo the screw at the back of the plastic cover on seat and pull away from frame gently, then prise switch module out and take it apart like pics. You can see one switch has come away.

My drivers back and fore switch developed an intermittent fault where it would not work, on opening up the control module it the problem was a dry solder joint, all four legs were no soldered at all. Not a major job and a novice could do this.

Hi everyone, my driver's side seat is a little temperamental, up and down works fine forward and back not so. Motor is fine as memory moves it fine, also how does the switch plate come out? Thanks in advance.