Recent content by JvdBosch

I would suspect the module on top of the battery. And don’t rule out a loose ground connection to the battery. I had this, it would not start but otherwise behave normal. And as said, alternators other than PSA will not work well.

The band saw I used was also pretty wide (made for woodworking). The profile can be made with it. Some parts need the chisel, like the bottom of the slot for the jacking point. But the rest can be made with the band saw.

I used a drill and chisel. The rubber is very easy to cut. The circular hole on the back was the hardest. I drilled out the shape and then used a chisel.

I’ve got one with a 85mm low point indeed. When you remove the puck, it just about fits. So that’s why I cut the circular profile in the block, so the cup of the jack fits in (I removed the rubber puck and loose metal cup fro That also allows me to precisely position the load point. As you can...

looking at it again, I see I saw the block in half. So my lifting block is 60mm wide, 80mm high at the highest point and 160mm long.

80mm is perfect for the width, no need to change. So just transfer your profile and use a bandsaw to cut it. The jacking point has a thicker middle part, so that’s the cutout you noticed. This way it fits precisely. The disc is just a standard trolley jack puck. I used it to determine how and...

I got them off Amazon I think. It’s these blocks you can buy to support cars with. Mine were from Kora (160x120x80mm).

I don’t have the drawings anymore, but using the procedure above it’s not so hard. Here’s a photo while I was doing this: There’s no metal in the rubber, just a big old block of rubber, attacked with a band saw, chisels and drill. And yes, the rear can safely be jacked up from the spring. This...

Nope, sorry. But very easily made. Just buy rubber blocks (I think I paid 30/piece) and use a band saw to cut out the profile. I made the rough profile with copper wire, transferred it to cardboard and in a few iterations I got a nice fit. Alternatively a thought about a wooden beam across the...

By the way, my garage has a four post lift. You just drive on it. They have a special hydraulic system which slides underneath and with which they select lifting point to raise the car. So the original points are not even used. They just use the front subframe and rear shocks. Maybe look for...

I also use a trolley jack on a metal plate for less friction and I take extra care to push the jack towards the car when jacking op. The lifting point also moves inward, so it’s best to have the jack follow.

I made this from two blocks of rubber. Fits snuggly under the car and prevents sideways motion. For the rear, just jack under the spring, you do not need the jacking points altogether

I agree about the chain lasting. I know of a few R’s which got their chain replaced at around 90k miles. Mine is just at 12k and I was worried about the age (10 years). But thinking about it and discussing with some knowledgeable people I came to the conclusion a metal chain does not age. Only...

I wouldn’t worry too much about the chain. At this mileage there will be many still on the original chain. It’s a plus if replaced, but if everything else is according to your liking, I wouldn’t walk away. Originality is also very important imho.

Maybe is is fixable with this stuff: LEATHER RENOVATION, SKAI | Sofolk