Recent content by JvdBosch

Gefeliciteerd! Enjoy the car!

Ok, then job well done!

The round hole is part of the engine noise circuit, to hear some more engine noise in the cabin. There is a pipe which connects to it, did you remove it or was it never there? I replaced the filter cover with one without the hole and removed the pipe. It seems to me this is a sort of air leak...

Happy birthday! Hope you had fun!

Thanks Eddie! This will surely help me and many others in the future!!

Bummer. As it failed so catastrophically, must be something apparent. No loose hoses?

Mine wouldn’t start sometimes. In the end it was a not well tightened negative battery lead.

I would suspect the module on top of the battery. And don’t rule out a loose ground connection to the battery. I had this, it would not start but otherwise behave normal. And as said, alternators other than PSA will not work well.

The band saw I used was also pretty wide (made for woodworking). The profile can be made with it. Some parts need the chisel, like the bottom of the slot for the jacking point. But the rest can be made with the band saw.

I used a drill and chisel. The rubber is very easy to cut. The circular hole on the back was the hardest. I drilled out the shape and then used a chisel.

I’ve got one with a 85mm low point indeed. When you remove the puck, it just about fits. So that’s why I cut the circular profile in the block, so the cup of the jack fits in (I removed the rubber puck and loose metal cup fro That also allows me to precisely position the load point. As you can...

looking at it again, I see I saw the block in half. So my lifting block is 60mm wide, 80mm high at the highest point and 160mm long.

80mm is perfect for the width, no need to change. So just transfer your profile and use a bandsaw to cut it. The jacking point has a thicker middle part, so that’s the cutout you noticed. This way it fits precisely. The disc is just a standard trolley jack puck. I used it to determine how and...

I got them off Amazon I think. It’s these blocks you can buy to support cars with. Mine were from Kora (160x120x80mm).

I don’t have the drawings anymore, but using the procedure above it’s not so hard. Here’s a photo while I was doing this: There’s no metal in the rubber, just a big old block of rubber, attacked with a band saw, chisels and drill. And yes, the rear can safely be jacked up from the spring. This...