Which Battery???

[Anonymous]

Hi folks,

I've noticed that on these cold winter days the car is taking longer to fire and it definitely seems like the battery is on its way out. Not wanting to get stuck anywhere I thought I would start searching for which/how much/where etc....

Anyway, it turns out that essentially no 'after-market' supplier or fitting centre will touch the car without charging around £70 for the labour involved in changing the battery <cough!>

So, I thought, best to go back to the main dealer and ask them to do it, so (hopefully) nothing essential gets broken in the process......just rang, and they have quoted £175 to supply and fit.....!!! OMG!

Well, turns out the battery is £125 of that, so maybe £50 for them to do it isn't as excessive as elsewhere - so, my next question was "can I supply the battery and you guys can fit that one instead", to which they have agreed, but it must be one the same. They have kindly given me the part number, which is PE5600TJ - does anyone know any equivalents/which maker this is?

Hope you can help, I need to get this changed asap....!

Thanks,

Stuart

 

[Abzynthe]

Theres this one on ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-RCZ-c ... 3641.l6393

Brand new as the car is being stripped to race spec. Its from a 156 though :eusa-think:

This one has the same part number minus the PE

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exide-Premium ... 0631381003

As long as you get one with the same power, it should be fine.

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Abzynthe,

Thanks for those suggestions - just checking now whether the 156 Sport is the same spec battery as for my 200GT...

<fingers crossed!>

Stuart

 

[tianorth]

I didn't think that you had to replace a battery with an identical one.

Whenever I have replace a battery in the past I have gone and upgraded it by looking at what the AmpHour & Cold Cranking Amps the original had, and replacing it with one of the same dimensions (if space is an issue) but with better CCA's at least (dependant on cost).
More CCA's = longer cranking.

Another thing I do to ease the starting process is to press the clutch pedal down so the starter doesn't have to turn the gearbox oil as well as spinning the engine, basically reducing the amount of drag the battery has to over come to start the engine, and therefore reducing the amount taken out of the battery and then less time for the battery to recover it charge.
With diesels requiring more ooomph to start everything helps.

 

[Anonymous]

Hi,

The only reason I have gone with an identical one is because the main dealer started going on about "invalidating any warranty", and "if there were any electrical failures because of it......blah, blah, blah" - and I have purchased one that Abz sent on a link, which my dealer have confirmed is the 'right one' - nb the one from a 2015 156bhp is the same as for my 2010 200GT.

Diesel's dont usually have as short a battery life and have a higher CCA - if fact I dont think I ever had to change a battery on any diesel car I had in past!

Cheers

Stuart

 

[tianorth]

That's the thing I don't get, OK I'm not an electrician but still use logic.......

main dealer started going on about "invalidating any warranty", and "if there were any electrical failures because of it......blah, blah, blah"

If the device ie the battery give out 12v then it gives out 12v, if one battery has 60AH and another battery has 110AH they still give out 12v. The only difference I can see is one will run out of power quicker than the other.

It's like having 2 bottles (with the same size filler necks) of water one that can carry 3 litres of water when full (60AH) and one that can carry 5 litres of water when full (110AH) they still both carry water!

 

[Anonymous]

I agree - but I dont think Main Dealers use logic when it comes to trying to wriggle out of any potential claim...

 

[DKZ5745]

And don't forget, they are trying to frighten/bully you into buying the battery from them. :thumbdown: