Wee thermostat housing leak…..

[EddieJ]

Well in some one else’s post I mentioned that I have to change my thermo housing because I was loosing a bit of coolant. Never a simple job, never easy and quite involved but it’s great when it just grows into a bigger job. And I know it not my RCZ but it is the same, well everything.
So started with a bit of coolant loss, and having done the same on my Z about 2 years ago pretty much convinced where to head to, so looking down the gap indicated could see pink coolant on the gearbox, no other wet spots noted. Parts ordered and time found.



Having done this job a few times in the past I kinda was expecting some pitfalls, and I got them. Whilst taking the thermo out, heard dripping. Oh here we go.
So the bits below, thermo cracked and end of one pipe tail disintegrated and wear on the rad flow pipe, happy days, full hat trick.




having done these yokes before I had planned ahead re parts.



Because of the cross pipe and the rad flow pipe I have opted to pull the inlet manifold out to give a tiny bit more room. Yes it can all be done without taking the manifold out, but for the sake of 5 nuts and a couple of wires I opted for a bit of space. Just to put it all back together now. Will add bits and pieces to this post at a later point to show what to go through if any ones interested.

 

[Lanciaman]

I would if you can. Thanks

 

[EddieJ]

Okay, here goes. I am going to assume you are doing just the thermostat housing.
Making space to get at it is key in accessing it, I know of people who will say it can be done without removing the battery…….if you have teeny tiny hands.

Disconnect the battery.
1, Disconnect the air intake temp sensor (Gently lift tab and slide of - nb the rest of the electrical connections you will have to take apart are the same type as this so note how it works)
2, Remove the crank pressure relief pipe, spring type jubilee clip at the sensor, gentle wiggle at rocker cover.
3, Remove the air box to turbo pipe, there is a small pipe under this connect to it, it has squeeze clips where it plugs to this pipe, squeeze and push back slightly, then as you withdraw the main pipe it will slide back, exposing a supporting clip that the smaller pipe should be popped out of.
4, Remove the resonator box cover, push clip on top.
5, Remove the resonator box, undo the jubilee clip (7mm) and push the concertina end of the air box, down the rhs of the res box there is a push in clip that allows the box to be withdrawn straight up.
6, Raise the aux fuse group from the top of the battery, two push tab clips on top left and right, and one down on the front of the battery cover, and gently place on top of the main fuse box (piece of string etc and gently tie back to bonnet strut etc).
7, Remove battery cover (lifts from the front, like a bonnet, then draw forwards).



Remove the battery, terminal at the back is 10mm and then the retaining clamp down the lhs is also 10mm.
I also took the rear section of battery cover out, two 13mm flange nuts and there is a plastic cable clip on the back of it. As well as the metal battery tray, two 13mm thread posts on the base (the rear cover flange nuts were on), three 13mm bolts to the left of the tray to the inner guard and one ‘hidden’ 13mm accessed from behind the wheels arch liner.
8, Remove the top of the air box, three torx screws
9, Remove the pipe that was connected to the resonator completely, gently pull forward whilst twisting left to right and it will pop out.
10, Remove the bottom hose off the radiator and allow coolant to drain into something suitable, taking the expansion cap off once disconnected will allow it to flow out quicker



11, 12, 13 Remove the vacuum lines that are over the engine harness support. 11 removes by squeezing the green tabs on either side and gently pulling up.
12 and 13 are just push on rubber pipes, using a pair of needle nose pliers get behind and push the pipe of, pull on the pipe strains it and can damage it. Tuck the two rubber ones back out of the way.



14, Open the flap on the side of the fuse box (it gives a little bit of slack for the next bit)
15, Unplug the coolant temperature sensor (same tab style as before & Unplug the thermostat control wiring, not in pic, but under where the 15 is written.
16, Raise the engine harness support, there is a push tab clip down the lhs and then it will lift straight up, gently rising it up off the thermostat housing, there should be enough slack to gently position it on top of the high pressure fuel pump.

I am going to bed now so will pick this up again later (and must rem to delete this line)