Peugeot RCZ Forum
Register a free account today to become a member. It's free! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, connect with other members through your own private inbox and take part in competitions!
Water Pump Replacement.
- Thread starter Soenvious
- Start date
Charlie1875
Active Member
Not too bad a job if your handy with the spanners, make sure you bleed the system through properly a they can be a swine to bleed
My method is jack up and secure drivers side, wheel off and wheel tub out to give slightly better access in what you’ll find to be a bit of a tight spot.
10mm spanner and 10mm 1/4 drive socket and mix of short extensions - water pump and friction wheel , 27/28/30mm - spanner tensioner, flat blade screwdriver or 7mm socket - bottom hose clamp. 6mm Allen key - loom support bracket. cleaning rags, brake & clutch cleaner and a container to catch coolant.
Empty coolant system (bottom hose of rad is a good place)
Crack loose the three 10mm bolts on the water pump friction wheel (but do not remove yet), 10mm spanner as space terrible.
Using a 28/30mm spanner pull forward and also push the lock pin into place to release the tension of the aux belt,
Draw the manual release cable on the water pump friction drive outward until hole is exposed and hook over the tang.
Remove the belt (note on it orientation and location).
Remove the friction drive pulley mechanism, 3 10mm bolts, hold out to the side to give better view of the wiring plug and remove it.
Remove loom support bracket bolt, Allen key just beside timing chain tensioner. Follow along loom under the engine mount support bracket and tease the plastic ‘Christmas tree’ style clips. This will allow you to access the uppermost water pump bolts.
Remove the friction wheel bolts you cracked lose earlier and remove pulley. Examine it for wear, if original maybe change it.
Remove the 5 bolts from around the water pump, 1/4 drive ratchet and short extensions.
Wiggle water pump out, small amount of coolant will come out.
Clean the mating surface on the block using a plastic scraper etc, then clean off thoroughly with rag and a drop of brake cleaner, do not scrape or gouge surface with metal. The surface should be completely clean and free of any marks.
Do not use sealant, the new water pump has rubber gasket, sealants can cause issues.
Ensure the new rubber gasket is well seated in it groove, inset into location ensure to line up the location stub.
Insert all five bolts running them down to pinch, then torque to 9nm.
Replace the friction drive, torque to 9nm.
Install friction pulley and run the 3 bolts down to pinch.
Replace the loom support bracket and loom clips.
Replace the belt.
Engage the friction wheel drive pulley, ensuring the cable fully returns and push the handle fully back in.
Release the aux belt tensioner.
Torque the 3 friction wheel pulley bolts to 9nm (nb the reason for undoing having the belt under tension before loosening or tightening is that this helps stop the pulley spinning whilst loosening or tightening).
Check bottom hose is secure and refill with coolant. Depending on thermostat housing type there is a bleed screw on top that can be opened with a large flat screw driver until a little coolant flows or ease the top rad hose back slightly allowing air to escape.
Start the car up with heat on hi and blower on full, monitor coolant level, top hose temperature (should increase).
Check for leaks around pump. Check heat coming through in cabin. Expect to top up aprox 1/4 L after a short drive. Keep check level for a few days.
I’ll try and add an annotated pic of useful bits later.
10mm spanner and 10mm 1/4 drive socket and mix of short extensions - water pump and friction wheel , 27/28/30mm - spanner tensioner, flat blade screwdriver or 7mm socket - bottom hose clamp. 6mm Allen key - loom support bracket. cleaning rags, brake & clutch cleaner and a container to catch coolant.
Empty coolant system (bottom hose of rad is a good place)
Crack loose the three 10mm bolts on the water pump friction wheel (but do not remove yet), 10mm spanner as space terrible.
Using a 28/30mm spanner pull forward and also push the lock pin into place to release the tension of the aux belt,
Draw the manual release cable on the water pump friction drive outward until hole is exposed and hook over the tang.
Remove the belt (note on it orientation and location).
Remove the friction drive pulley mechanism, 3 10mm bolts, hold out to the side to give better view of the wiring plug and remove it.
Remove loom support bracket bolt, Allen key just beside timing chain tensioner. Follow along loom under the engine mount support bracket and tease the plastic ‘Christmas tree’ style clips. This will allow you to access the uppermost water pump bolts.
Remove the friction wheel bolts you cracked lose earlier and remove pulley. Examine it for wear, if original maybe change it.
Remove the 5 bolts from around the water pump, 1/4 drive ratchet and short extensions.
Wiggle water pump out, small amount of coolant will come out.
Clean the mating surface on the block using a plastic scraper etc, then clean off thoroughly with rag and a drop of brake cleaner, do not scrape or gouge surface with metal. The surface should be completely clean and free of any marks.
Do not use sealant, the new water pump has rubber gasket, sealants can cause issues.
Ensure the new rubber gasket is well seated in it groove, inset into location ensure to line up the location stub.
Insert all five bolts running them down to pinch, then torque to 9nm.
Replace the friction drive, torque to 9nm.
Install friction pulley and run the 3 bolts down to pinch.
Replace the loom support bracket and loom clips.
Replace the belt.
Engage the friction wheel drive pulley, ensuring the cable fully returns and push the handle fully back in.
Release the aux belt tensioner.
Torque the 3 friction wheel pulley bolts to 9nm (nb the reason for undoing having the belt under tension before loosening or tightening is that this helps stop the pulley spinning whilst loosening or tightening).
Check bottom hose is secure and refill with coolant. Depending on thermostat housing type there is a bleed screw on top that can be opened with a large flat screw driver until a little coolant flows or ease the top rad hose back slightly allowing air to escape.
Start the car up with heat on hi and blower on full, monitor coolant level, top hose temperature (should increase).
Check for leaks around pump. Check heat coming through in cabin. Expect to top up aprox 1/4 L after a short drive. Keep check level for a few days.
I’ll try and add an annotated pic of useful bits later.
Wow! Excellent breakdown of the job, thanks very much.