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Sealant

A

Anonymous

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Hi,

I've been slowly purchasing my shopping list of detailibg products while waiting for my new car. I have now got to the sealant and need some help. Looking at RCZ1 full detailing guide (very comprehensive thank you) there are a number of sealants recommended one if which being C2. About to purchase online last night and stumbled upon C1 and C1.5! Even a C1&1.5 kit. What should I be using or should I be using all 3. The guide for C1 suggests butting it straight on the paint but the detailing guide says after polish..... I'm so confused. Conflicting advice on how to use it before or after polish also?

So far I have bought: autoglym SRP, dodo juice quick detailer, karcher snow foam lance and free bottle of karcher snow foam to start off, autoglym tyre protector and shine, planet polish rim protect and shine 2 bucket guards for the bottom of the buckets, meguiars nx glass protect, monza microfibres drying towels.

I am left with tardis, ironx, clay and paint sealant and something for the plastic trim.

Sealant question has thrown me!

Cheers
P
 
A

Anonymous

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Think this one will be answered rather comprehensively by our detailing queen RCZ1. Over to you young lady as all this bamboozles me too ;)

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
 

renegade79

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I'm in the same boat as you! Trying to get myself into detailing aswell. My understanding of rcz1's instructions, is that the sealant goes on after the polish to help seal the shine for longer. I think it provides an extra layer of protection! I did a quick detail of my car yesterday but I will be looking at doing a proper one soon! I couldn't find where to buy the sealant so presumably online!
 

RCZ1

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Hi Guys

Before applying C1, to get the best out of it, you need to fully decontaminate your car and then polish it, to make it as swirl and scratch free as possible. As polishes contain oils, you need to do an ipa wipe down or use Carpro Eraser, which is the same but you just spray on and wipe off. No messing with diluting the ipa. The wipe down leaves a completely clean surface to which you can apply C1. C1.5 is a bit old hat now and has been largely replaced by Grechniq C2v3. It's far more hydrophobic and gives great gloss levels and is so easy to use. You can dilute it also and use it as a QD and spray it on a wet car to help when drying it. Helps remove watermarks, etc and you can use it on your alloys for extra shine.

Also Exov2 can be put on top of C1 but is more expensive but is even more hydrophobic. Whichever way you go, you won't regret it. They are great products.

Hope that helps but if you have any more questions, please ask.


Blog: http://rczandme.wordpress.com/
 
A

Anonymous

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So if I understand correctly your recommending C1?

So your saying wash then ironx / clay then Ipa wipe down( what's this and what product to use) then C1

Or replace C1 with C2v3 which looks considerably cheaper?
 

RCZ1

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diciacca_p said:
So if I understand correctly your recommending C1?

So your saying wash then ironx / clay then Ipa wipe down( what's this and what product to use) then C1

Or replace C1 with C2v3 which looks considerably cheaper?

C1 and C2v3 are two completely different things.

C1 is a coating which gives hardness to paint (adding a couple of microns) and helps to reduce swirling and marring. Can last up to 2 years. C1 really needs to have C2v3 or Exo for example, applied on top to help provide the hydrophobicity (is that a word ?).

C2v3 is a standalone sealant, which on its own can give up to 8 months protection.

Ideally, you would coat your paintwork with C1 and then top it with C2v3. When the beading starts to drop off, after 3 or 4 months, then you can reapply C2v3 or just use it as diluted QD once a month or something like that.

It really depends what kind of protection you want to give your car. A harder coat to reduce marring or just something that's quick to apply that adds some gloss and makes water sheet faster.

Use Carpro Eraser to do a wipe down, cheaper and easier to use than IPA.
 
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Anonymous

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Ok so I will stick with c2v3 as I've read c1 should only be applied by a trained pro which as I'm sure you've gathered I'm not.

So I will snow foam, wash with chemical guys citrus wash and wax, ironx, polish, carpro eraser then c2v3. That sound about right?
 
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Anonymous

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RCZ1 said:
Sounds good to me - not forgetting the Tardis.


Blog: http://rczandme.wordpress.com/
The optimum way to fix paintwork problems is to prevent them in the first place...hence the need for a time machine. Time And Rcz1's Detailing Instruction Script - TARDIS, see? ;-)

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 
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Anonymous

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I was intending to buy tardis also RCZ1 but didn't think I would have to do that upfront as I will be doing the initial detail within first few days of receiving the car from brand new. Would you still recommend doing it and would you do it straight after wash before ironx?
 

RCZ1

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diciacca_p said:
I was intending to buy tardis also RCZ1 but didn't think I would have to do that upfront as I will be doing the initial detail within first few days of receiving the car from brand new. Would you still recommend doing it and would you do it straight after wash before ironx?

Yes I would still use the Tardis and exactly as you describe. Just don't let it dry on the car. Leave 2 or 3 minutes, agitate if necessary and then thoroughly rinse.


Blog: http://rczandme.wordpress.com/
 

RCZ1

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Anonymous

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Ok got my c2v3 in preparation, nearly there with all the gear and looking forward to giving it a go in a few weeks.

My AutoGlym SRP turned up today and they also sent a nice microfibres cloth and what is call a AutoGlym Hi Tech Polish Applicator - which looks exactly like a sponge? It says professionals choice for applying and uses much less polish.....all the advice I've ever seen on here suggests a sponge should never go near the car....anyone have any views?
 
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Anonymous

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diciacca_p said:
...which looks exactly like a sponge? It says professionals choice for applying and uses much less polish.....all the advice I've ever seen on here suggests a sponge should never go near the car....anyone have any views?

A sponge isn't dangerous if you carefully clean it after usage, or whenever you notice dirt on it during usage.
 

RCZ1

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diciacca_p said:
Ok got my c2v3 in preparation, nearly there with all the gear and looking forward to giving it a go in a few weeks.

My AutoGlym SRP turned up today and they also sent a nice microfibres cloth and what is call a AutoGlym Hi Tech Polish Applicator - which looks exactly like a sponge? It says professionals choice for applying and uses much less polish.....all the advice I've ever seen on here suggests a sponge should never go near the car....anyone have any views?

I see what you mean about the AutoGlym Applicator. I wouldn't personally use it. First time I've seen one of those.

I would use something like this to apply the polish
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/accessori ... od_89.html

Or this for some extra abrasion when required
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/accessori ... d_280.html
 
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Anonymous

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RCZ1 said:
I see what you mean about the AutoGlym Applicator. I wouldn't personally use it. First time I've seen one of those.

Just searched for that thing and it looks indeed like a washing sponge...wouldn't use it either!

RCZ1 said:
I would use something like this to apply the polish
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/accessori ... od_89.html

That's what I use, and because they are made from the same material as sponges I assumed the OP meant these.
 
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