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P0016 but eml not on!

Nina's RCZ

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Hi Everyone

My wife, Nina, and I just bought a 2011, RCZ 1.6 156thp petrol.

It has done 60100 miles and seems in very good condition. Only 3 owners and last one a lady who had it for 6 years. Lots of bills, seems anything wrong she just had it done. I can't see an actual service book but some bills have services attached.

Timing chain does not rattle at all, and she goes very well. We have only done 50 miles but the mpg seems to be showing at 37mpg.

However today I checked a basic level Obd2 and found P0016. Cam/crank non correlation.

To me this suggests either, a chain tensioner not really doing its job, or a stretched chain, which I know is an issue with RCZ.

I am minded just to slot in a new tensioner to see if the fault goes.

My eyebrow is raised as why this fault isn't lighting up the EML?

Any ideas? Could it be a legacy fault, or something other than timing?

Thanks in advance

Tony
 

Nina's RCZ

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Oh btw - new member, so if I have done something incorrectly- apologies
 

lfe

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Welcome!

If the fault doesn't recur, the EML will turn off after a certain time.

Above all, change the oil often, as this can also cause the P0016 fault.

If the oil on the dipstick is dark and smells burnt, change it immediately. Also, change the filter.
 

Nina's RCZ

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Welcome!

If the fault doesn't recur, the EML will turn off after a certain time.

Above all, change the oil often, as this can also cause the P0016 fault.

If the oil on the dipstick is dark and smells burnt, change it immediately. Also, change the filter.
Thank you Ife. It is really very much appreciated.

The oil looks pretty clear and I have found a supposed service in last 6 months. Oil was a bit low (not unexpected) but they didn't use correct oil. 5w40 I think.

I certainly intend to change the oil, using Total Quartz Ineo 0w30. Probably every 5k miles. It will help me monitor usage as I suspect that like a lot it burns oil a bit.

I had heard that bad oil can be a cause of P0016 - hopefully an oil change will help.

I am tempted to change the tensioner anyway as I would think it has an original one.

Does anyone recommend a particular OEM or is it better to get from Peugeot?

Thanks for all the help.
 

lfe

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I've been using Total Quartz 9000 5W 40 for years. The engine runs smoother and quieter, and it consumes less oil than with 0W 30.

I changed the tensioner because it sometimes rattle a little. If it didn't rattle for you, I wouldn't change it.

I bought the tensioner from Autodoc, and it hasn't rattle anymore for 40,000 km.
 

EddieJ

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Interesting Ife, I have considered quite a bit on changing the oil spec up but never heard of anyone doing it for any length of time making comment.
Mines due a change in about July (@ 6000 from last), if you don’t mind me asking (and apologies to original poster), do you know how many happy miles you’ve been on 5/40 and what mileage interval you change at. I’ve two prince engine cars and they both would be getting a tea cup top up about every 1000 using 0/30.
 
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lfe

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The main reason to use less viscosity oil is to reduce fuel consumption, not better lubrication and the reduction in consumption is ridiculous, read article


I have already done 40000 km with 5W40, before with 0W30 it consumed 1 liter every 3000 km, with 5W40 1 every 4000 km

I change oil each 10000 km
 
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Nina's RCZ

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Hi Everyone

I thought I'd update on the above problem.

So after a bit the P0016 code started switching on the EML. What was odd it only did it on cold starts. Once up to temperature, if you cleared the code, it would remain clear until the next cold start (normally next day). Even if you left it an hour it would not fault. So, very temp sensitive. This is why I suspected oil or Vanos valve.

Rest of info, car started and ran beautifully, with or without code. Returned a steady 42 to 46mpg - and on one long run 55mpg (not bad for petrol). So I knew it was running OK.

Chain not noisy.

I changed the oil to 0w30 Total Eneo.
Needed doing anyway. No luck.

Car had a 3 month RAC warranty from dealer which just proved to be so difficult to navigate for us. A lot of messing about to no avail, except a diagnostic where the garage said probably crank shaft sensor. Never fixed though due to the many hoops you have to jump through.

I got fed up with warranty so swopped out the crank sensor myself. Easy job 20 mins from on ramps to off ramps. £17 part. Did not fix! Grr - so garage was incorrect.

At this point VANOS valve foremost in mind.

However took a punt on cam shaft sensor. So easy on these - Bosch one for £27 on Amazon. Literally a 1 minute job.

Bam, no Eml for a couple of days, where I know it would have faulted. So crossed fingers

If only everything was this easy!

Odd that it was temp sensitive?? Real curveball. But I know these engines get atomic bomb hot under the bonnet, maybe the sensor was heat damaged?

Other info about car for comparison purposes

63,000 miles
Uses about 750ml to 1l oil per 5k miles - normal I believe? I intend to change oil every 5k miles
Seems to do on average 45mpg (pretty happy with that)

Now onto working out why air con doesn't work, at all!
 
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