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Hi From Slovakia my new RCZ

Nadzi

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no ďakujem za túto informáciu a hneď ju prepošlem mechanikovi, aby vedel, na čo si dať pozor a ak bude možné, dám vymeniť celý rozvod vrátane týchto ventilov. otázka znie, či ak je zlá kompresia, dá sa s motorom niečo urobiť a opraviť to, ak sú napríklad zlé piestne krúžky? pretože neviem, kde by som v našom okolí kúpil nový motor. mám vyčlenených 5000 eur na servis, stačí to na kompletnú opravu motora???

Otázka číslo 2 je, že keď ho naštartujem za studena, motor beží dobre a má výkon, takže z toho viem zistiť, či je kompresia dobrá? Samozrejme, že to dám skontrolovať, pretože na to nemám nástroje, ale zaujíma ma, či takto zistím, či je kompresia v poriadku.
 

EddieJ

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Either unplug the injectors (below the inlet manifold) there is a plug on each one, feel your way in from either side to get at two from one side and two from the other. Feel the tab on each and gently lift up whilst withdrawing the plug. Be gentle getting your hand/arm in not to dislodge anything else.
I have attached a video of someone taking bits off a very similar engine type so you can see where you are going, along with the below pic of the injector plugs. You will need to remove the air filter box and air pipes to give access, be careful removing sensors, see how the guy in the vid goes about it so you know the method. You don’t need to be taking the inlet manifold off.


1764195181226.jpeg

Or F10 (30a) in the fuse box under the bonnet, but it shuts other things off too.
1764195369191.jpeg

With fuel stopped, remove your coil packs (creature of habit I mark each one as to which cylinder it came out of…yours are all new so maybe not).
Remove your plugs (again mark location……..though again yours are new).
Insert pressure gauge into no 1 (take absolute care not to drop anything into the spark plug holes, placing a rag over the exposed holes can seem like a good idea but can get sucked down)
Crank for aprox 5 seconds to allow a few full rotations to ensure max pressure is achieved on the gauge, note reading.
Repeat across the rest of the cylinders.
It may be worthwhile depressurise the gauge and repeating on each cylinder so you have a couple of reading on each.
The noted pressure should be about 245psi (17bar) for normal, with 200psi (14bar) at the low side. Maximum deviation across the cylinders should be 45psi (3bar) (manual states 75psi (5bar). Depending on your gauge you may need to convert the unit of measure (bar, psi, kpa) Numbers shown are rounded slightly.
If your readings are low you might want to try dripping about 5 mil of engine oil into each plug hole one a a time and retest each cylinder. This will give a bit of additional sealing of the rings to bore during the stroke and can help identify worn rings/bore. if you do drip oil in try not to get it on the spark plug threads as this can affect the torquing of the plugs.

Also, tho you haven’t probably got any mileage on your new plugs to show anything, take note of their condition, ie wet black etc or a photo, may be of use later.

I am not going to say anything else at this point as you seem to be getting flustered and seeking worst case scenario’s, maybe my fault for too much information at a time, wife says I always go into too much detail all the time. A compression test will give you a reasonable indication of engine condition. Then you can start to rule things out. Just note that if you do drip oil into each cylinder that when you do next start it there may be a few puffs of smoke from the exhaust as the oil burns off.

Also, while you have the air pipes out of the way on the gearbox side, measure you hpfp diaphragm while you have access to it.
 

Nadzi

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I read on the internet that this engine cannot be repaired if, for example, the head gasket is cracked or there are other problems with the cylinder head and you only need to buy a new cylinder head?
 

EddieJ

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I read on the internet that this engine cannot be repaired if, for example, the head gasket is cracked or there are other problems with the cylinder head and you only need to buy a new cylinder head?

That’s a big jump, did it fail compression test?
 

Nadzi

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Nie, stále čakám na termín u mechanika. Radšej nechám meranie kompresie na mechanika. Kým čakám, snažím sa byť informovaný rôznymi vedomosťami a učiť sa, čo by mi tiež mohlo pomôcť.
 

EddieJ

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Nie, stále čakám na termín u mechanika. Radšej nechám meranie kompresie na mechanika. Kým čakám, snažím sa byť informovaný rôznymi vedomosťami a učiť sa, čo by mi tiež mohlo pomôcť.
Sensible idea, but while you wait it might help not to read all the bad things there may be with the EP6 engines.
Read some of the good things, such as if looked after well how they can go on and on, how tuneable they can be etc.
 

Nadzi

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Áno, pre mňa je to skvelé auto, aj keď to znamená veľký servis. Stále mám vyčlenených 4000 eur na opravy, takže dúfam, že to na začiatok bude stačiť. Mimochodom, je niečo, čo by som mal povedať mechanikovi, aby ho neopravoval ani nemenil nič iné, čo by ho mohlo poškodiť? Je to skúsený mechanik, ktorý sa autám venuje už mnoho rokov.
 

EddieJ

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If he’s an experienced mechanic he won’t thank you for telling him what to do.
You’ll need to trust him, there are a few rogues out there, but there are many many good ones too that do care about what they do.
 

Nadzi

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A few days ago I took the car to a mechanic and unfortunately my bad ideas came true. The engine is beyond repair because the cylinder heads do not hold the cams and are leaking. I need to buy either a new head or a reconditioned engine. What would you recommend? Can I get a cylinder head on the aftermarket? Or is it better to buy a reconditioned engine? But where from? Look in Poland, for example?
 

EddieJ

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Not the news you wanted I am sure.
There may be as yet unseen damage to the engine block, you could put a new head on and still have further troubles. I keep recalling you had mentioned that the car had a lack of decent servicing. That information would lead me to look for an engine if it was mine.

if there are any localish dismantlers/recyclers around you it might be best to work with them on a replacement. Remember when you are looking for a replacement engine that this engine type was used in many cars, mini, Peugeot 308, Citroen etc. Look up your full engine code to be sure you are seeking the correct unit. It’s something like EP6CDT, check. Remember to have the know good/new items stripped off your old engine as well as anything you think might be useful to have as spares, coil packs, hpfp etc. (I’d leave the turbo with its history).
If you do go down the route of a replacement engine, might be a very good idea to have key service items done while it’s out of the car, timing chain, water pump, visual inspection on the thermostat housing, new seals on the oil cooler/filter housing, turbo oil feed and return pipes. Could save you quite a bit on labour and give you good peace of mind.
 

Michalis999

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I agree with EddieJ.

@Nadzi not sure what your mechanic said about the cylinder heads do not hold the cams and are leaking, but i suspect he means the valve stem seals which are a known issue on these engines.

Suggest you to still perform the compression test including fuel injector test, inspect turbo for any play on the impeller, inspect the oil and filter for any glitter or signs of metal, Inspect catalytic converter for any sighs of blockage (if the engine burns oil it can damage it), if these are ok then the costly items are OK.

Then replace the timing chain, valve stem seals, water pump, pullies, crankshaft seal, thermostat, complete valve cover housing, HPFP (although not cheap) including full service and check for any boost and vacuum leaks.
Decarbonize the inlet valves since these engines are direct injection and can clog up.
Adding Liqui Moly Ceratec with the same brand 5-30 synthetic oil and some fuel system cleaner will be good.
I did the same on my own (i have a 1.6 petrol THP200 with 150000km) and car became alive again.

Use quality or OEM spares most of them are relatively cheap except the HPFP.

Happy motoring
 

Pedro

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Dirty oil cause the vinos VVT system to go AWOL the fuel trims are better measured on live data as in teh car running on open road on my 200 the trims were dropping on acceleration so I knew my pump was finished other factors on the petrol engines is valve stem seals will bake rock hard due to the amount of heat they generate in the upper parts meaning oil burning & if left too long will cause havoc with the emissions messing up fuel usage as the Oxygen sensors will struggle to give the ECU correct data to adjust the air fuel/fuel ratios also causing stuttering juddering even knocking aka Knock sensor issues
 
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