Heat doesn't work

[Gatoryu]

Hi all, first time posting so apologies if anything's wrong.

My a/c stopped blowing heat at all (nice time of the year for that. Cold wind blows, checked fluid and levels normal, ventilator of radiator blows....
What could I check and how do I fix it and can I try to fix it myself?

Thanks

 

[RCZ-mad]

My first guess is the heater control valve not opening. Before sending to a garage, get yourself an OBD2 adapter/reader, plug it in and see what codes you get. These adapters are pretty cheap these days.

Just to be sure, check all fuses as well.

 

[lfe]

The water should always circulate through the heating radiator, there is no shut-off valve.

It could be a bleeding problem, perhaps there is an air pocket. On the water tubes that enter to the interior there is a manual bleed, I think you have to remove the air filter to access it.

Did they recently change the coolant liquid? maybe they didn't bleed it well

 

[RCZ-mad]

The water should always circulate through the heating radiator, there is no shut-off valve.

In that case, wonder if the water pump friction wheel is not engaging, which would stop the coolant circulating. Or the thermostat? Either way in both of those cases, the engine would overheat.

The question is, does it overheat? They'll have to drive it around for awhile and see if it does.

And also get that OBD2 reader onto it

 

[Gatoryu]

In that case, wonder if the water pump friction wheel is not engaging, which would stop the coolant circulating. Or the thermostat? Either way in both of those cases, the engine would overheat.

The question is, does it overheat? They'll have to drive it around for awhile and see if it does.

And also get that OBD2 reader onto it

Engine is fine, doesn't overheat. Checked with OBD2 and it returned 0 errors and that everything is fine. It would detect if thermostat or any sensor would be faulty, right? So it has to be something mechanical then?

 

[lfe]

There is probably air in the circuit.
The car has 2 taps to bleed the air, they are opened until only liquid and not air comes out, in the attached video at 2:08 and at 2:45 they are shown.

 

[Gatoryu]

There is probably air in the circuit.
The car has 2 taps to bleed the air, they are opened until only liquid and not air comes out, in the attached video at 2:08 and at 2:45 they are shown.

Although it says even in the book "bleeding screw", but I cannot see anything remotely like anything in the video.

 

[Gatoryu]

OMG
If not here is what you need to do. Basically the heater matrix does not bleed itself when the coolant is changed for any reason. But it is easily fixed by using the air bleed that is fitted to the heater hose pipe as it comes through the firewall back into the engine bay. You have to remove both the air ducts that go to and from the engine air filter. You need to undo the top one at the fragile turbo end first and you will need someone to help you unclip the lower one as it has 2 release clips. The Top one is easily accessible but the bottom one is hidden and you need to do it by feel with a long flat blade screwdriver while someone else gently wiggles it off. Once clear the bleed nipple is immediately obvious on the top hot water pipe which goes to the heater matrix. Undo the cap til all the air escapes then repeat procedure in reverse. Don't forget to top up your coolant. Simples and toasty warm on a cold morning!!

 

[lfe]

Although it says even in the book "bleeding screw", but I cannot see anything remotely like anything in the video.

The first one is hard to see, it is in the thermostat body on the right lateral of the engine and there are many things there, it is better to remove the pipe that goes from the air filter to the turbo.

The second, if you do not remove the air filter, as in the video, and the pipe already described, you will never see it.

 

[Gatoryu]

The first one is hard to see, it is in the thermostat body on the right lateral of the engine and there are many things there, it is better to remove the pipe that goes from the air filter to the turbo.

The second, if you do not remove the air filter, as in the video, and the pipe already described, you will never see it.

Thank you for your response.
Honestly, I removed "housing" top, then lifted pipe out of it's holder and can't understand where it even could be there. Maybe if I remove completely it it will be more clear, I will try again later on and will try to post maybe some pics.
Also I've tried just removing cap from liquid container and running engine with full High A/C on for couple of hours, it didn't help. Cold air comes fine with full force out of all vents, when you turn up the heat, front panel vents barely blow, only the front window one at the top...So maybe it's some blockage?

 

[lfe]

You welcome.

I think the car in the video is a Citroen C5, there may be differences with an RCZ.

I have been looking in my RCZ, I have not been able to see the bleeder on the thermostat body but I can see the one on the heating tube, it is where the tube enters the interior of the car, behind and slightly below the brake fluid reservoir, but It is much smaller than the cap in the video, it is tiny.

You really have to remove at least the air filter cover to access it.

The blockage can be done by the air itself

 

[Pedro]

The Thermostat will disable the Air con if its failing like mine did so a newly fitted tank cures the problem

 

[RCZKam]

Which model have you got? I’m not sure on the differences between the 156/200 or diesel (topside) but on my 156 If you remove your brake fluid reservoir (two T20) then pull it out (quite a bit) and across over to the right over the battery cover and shine a torch directly behind it you can see the bleed nipple on the heater hose going into the bulkhead

I’ve managed to bleed both my bleed screws just moving the brake fluid reservoir

The thermostat bleed screw is accessible if you shine a light directly down you can just see the top and will need a long screwdriver at a particular angle to access, if I get a chance tomorrow I’ll take a pic of the screwdriver seated

Practise first on a cold engine feeding your hand through blind onto the nipple and just turning (without turning) quarter and back out shine torch and check, keep doing this till you know the route

With engine upto temp and after doing the thermostat the heater hose nipple is quite straightforward

I did it in short sleeves but put some long sleeves on if you don’t feel comfortable jamming your arm in there. Again this is on a 156 right hand drive and was straightforward

 

[Pedro]

Mine is a 200 R/H/D & there is no bleed screw once its fitted to the car in the Thermostat housing you have to remove it to fit the temperature probe into the bleed hole as for the heater I haven't needed to touch anything as it works fine don't forget they changed the set up with the thermostat housing the 200 & R plugs into teh rear whilst the 156 needs longer tails to connect up

 

[RCZKam]

I managed to get some pics, depending on which model you have will determine the thermostat setup and whether you have a bleed screw or not as above

The three different types I’ve come across so far have which DO have a bleed screw on the thermostat have two in the same position and the other a little further near the top - my thermostat (for 156) is the middle one, note the bleed screw position on the last one because of the sensor, the thermostat bleed screws have a cross head but a flat screwdriver is advised not a Phillips



With the number one and two you can just make out its position in the bay looking down







For the heater hose going into the bulkhead there is a bleed nipple I believe on all models, use two T20 Torx and move the brake fluid res over to the side and shine a light and you will see the bleed nipple





The red is where the bleed nipple is the yellow lines just show the same item from near and far









Good luck