Re: Gibraltar
Both Britain and Spain seem to have a knack of presenting conundrums.
At present we have the Catalan situation in Spain, the northern Ireland / Eire border after Brexit, seeming to be an insurmountable problem, and Gibraltar affecting both Spain and Britain.
After a few visits to see first hand the little bit of surviving British colonialism, my fairy neutral and, I hope, realistic views are as follows:
The Rock is a very political and contentious subject, which I have rarely discussed and am sticking my neck out here.
My position, like on many things, is middle of the road, and I hope, well reasoned, and certainly not partisan.
Simply put, Spain thinks it is theirs but Britain has it, and it IS theirs.
And it is widely reported, backed by votes, that those who live there wish to retain the existing situation.
Historically there are arguments on both sides, but then all round the world are disputed territory situations that exist either through quirks of sovereignty, outcome of wars, or conquest.
That is how they are, and some may possibly be up for negotiation for change of "ownership".
Spain itself has contentious colonies in north Africa - Ceuta and Melilla.
Britain leaving the EU has muddied the waters even more regarding the future of Gib, with both sides claiming what might happen, based on nothing more than their own agenda.
My focus and opinions are based on how things are at this moment and from first hand visits to the rock.
I am also well acquainted with many of the arguments.
First a couple of facts.
Gibraltar is not an island, believe it or not.
I make this point because I have even read in erstwhile serious publications that they think it is.
It ain't!
Been there, seen it, walked through the customs point then across the airport runway from Spain to Gib, and back again, several times.
It is a British earring hanging from a Spanish ear lobe, La Linea, near the Strait of Gibraltar.
Notice I say "near", because the closest point to Africa (Morocco) is actually at Tarifa, further South and West of Gib.
So that's two misconceptions already, made frequently, before we get onto other facts, many of which get either blown out of proportion or almost ignored.
To make any practical observations, it is first and foremost important to look at the town of La Linea de la Concepcion and its relationship with the Rock.
La Linea is where Gibraltar is joined on to Spain, is larger than Gibraltar and has about twice the population.
I wonder why is not enough said about it!
Reality is often uncomfortable for politicians and even journalists.
La Linea and Gibraltar not only co-exist but need each other on a day to day basis. For example, watch the border crossing at rush hour times in the morning and evening. The queues (long even in normal border flow times) of vehicles and pedestrians are not tourists, who arrive later and leave at various times.
The rush hours are mainly due to the flow of workers; some estimates say up to three thousand!
So, the Rock has a very positive effect on the economy of the local Spanish community; and, Gib needs the workers from Spain.
But, buy fags in La Linea and you might be breaking the law, because there is a huge black market due to the far lower price (lower tax) in Gib.
The customs try to keep it under control, but it is a losing battle as dubious shaped ladies wander back and fro across the border, being less plump on their entry into Gib than on their return.
The very odd thing about the contention between Spain and Britain over Gibraltar seems to be about everything BUT the reliance of La Linea on Gib and vice versa.
It is true that the rather "unfair" (my soft description) tax advantages the Rock has, which enable it to be very prosperous, must get up many noses.
The unseen but ever present gambling industry there brings in an absolute fortune; all betting companies have a thriving base to avoid tax elsewhere, and finance businesses have access to the EU markets.
The tourists, especially from the cruise ships, whilst not usually straying across into Spain, pay the wages of a huge number of La Linea workers.
On our last visit, we took a taxi "tour" up the rock and to the caves.
The driver lived in La Linea and the car Spanish registered; and all the other tours offered seemed similar.
It was an expensive few hours, so La Linea's economy got a small injection of funds from us.
And we were staying full board in a hotel in La Linea, where there are huge areas of land available for hotels, etc.
Curiously, the atmosphere inside Gib flips back and forth between Colonial British and modern Spanish, as you walk around and take in various, often contrasting, experiences.
Marks and Spencer and other easily recognisable UK High Street shops and banks sit in a context of narrow Spanish village-like alleys and small squares. The waiters and the restaurants and bars are very Mediterranean, but outside you will likely bump into (not literally) an English Bobby with distinctive helmet, by a traditional old red phone box.
Driving is on the right as in Spain and the vehicles look no different from what you see in Spain, but the road signs and directions are all very British.
Where it all seems to get nasty is when sabre rattling, mainly by Spanish authorities, whether at government or local level, spills over into actual confrontation.
There are two main areas where this happens; one is the ridiculously defined territorial waters; the other is border controls.
The fishermen and pleasure craft "sailors" are very often naughty all over the world and will occasionally be reprimanded in some way or other.
There are also claims of drug running by Gib based fast craft.
The truth is that all along the coast near Africa has the problem.
There are drug gangs in La Linea, who, by having different levels of the authorities in their pay, regularly unload small low profile (radar invisible) craft mostly in poor light or at night, from North Africa, and shift it up into the rest of Spain.
But off Gib, the macho guardians of the shore get themselves worked up with each other and cannot back down before one or other does something silly.
The press go to town and also the diplomatic protests are made.
Nothing is achieved by the antics of either side and after a little spell of indignation by both, it all calms down again.
The border control silliness is a major aggravation to those wishing to go about their daily business or for visitors.
From time to time, the authorities, at whatever level, decide to disrupt the flow by imposing unrealistic checks on vehicles and pedestrians.
Delays of several hours can occur.
Again it only has a negative impact on all concerned, and the pompous military style posturing of policing by the Spanish border staff just gets up everybody's noses.
They are bullies who can make life difficult, so, given the opportunity, they do.
So, I have said a lot about very little, as most of the friction is petty and will lead nowhere, I am sure.
Why not just leave things as they are and get on with life.
The Gib government could make a big gesture of goodwill by raising the tax on fags to make an even playing field, which would cut out the smuggling and make things less confrontational at the border.
The Spanish government could rein back the gung-ho uniformed folk a bit.
Moreover, I feel both sides could be a little more mature - one side acts a little superior and cocky, whilst the other appears to have a huge chip on their shoulder and sulky (you work out which is which).
In my small utopian thoughts, I would build a canteen straddling the border, where, at no cost, but as an employment condition, all police associated with border or shore patrol, must eat and drink together; fish and chips, paella and tortilla, draught beer and wine.
There might be the occasional punch up if a Brit insults the mother of a Spaniard or if a Spaniard minimalises a Brit's cojones, but behind closed doors they would not inconvenience the rapport and coexistence of La Linea and Gib inhabitants.
And it would be nice if it didn't appear to be one lot thumbing their nose at the sulking other side.
