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Engine stuttering at higher rpm

LeonGrchz

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Hello y'all,

my engine starts to stutter at higher rpm and if I keep accelerating it goes into limp mode...

Check engine light comes on and reads

P1336 Engine misfires with risk of destroying the catalytic converter
P1339 Combustion of cylinder N° *1

But I guess that's because of limp mode and not the actual stuttering. After a restart the engine runs fine again (at lower rpm at least).

Can that be the high pressure fuel pump not keeping up at higher rpm or do you have any other idea?

Or can it be a faulty fuel injector?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Charlie1875

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I would firstly change your spark plugs with a decent brand, bosch or ngk, it’s common for a high rev range misfire when one of the spark plugs are faulty, regardless if they were changed at the last servic, I would start there
 

Charlie1875

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I would firstly change your spark plugs with a decent brand, bosch or ngk, it’s common for a high rev range misfire when one of the spark plugs are faulty, regardless if they were changed at the last service interval I would start there
 

LeonGrchz

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I changed by coils and spark plugs last year April about 20k km ago.
Those should be good.
I'll take a look at the spark plugs and maybe change them so I'll be able to see if it stays in cylinder 1.

Thanks for the heads up!
Ignition Coil, had the same issue about 2 months ago.
 

LeonGrchz

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I would firstly change your spark plugs with a decent brand, bosch or ngk, it’s common for a high rev range misfire when one of the spark plugs are faulty, regardless if they were changed at the last service interval I would start there
Sounds good, I'll take a look at the spark plugs and maybe switch 2 and if it still says cylinder 1 I'll know that it's not the spark plugs.

Thanks for the reply!
 

NF7

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Which Ignition Coils have you put in?

I had a weird situation where I had three BERU coils in and one Bosch (because I replaced one original with Bosch) but then Bosch was not available when I replaced all of them and the mechanic only put three BERU inside because they were pretty much the same when testing them.

However, three months ago I started getting "ghost" Engine Repair lights. After turning the car on and off, all was fine. I checked the codes and the code for Bosch coil came up - it was intermittent. Sometimes it would work, sometimes not. Then I replaced the coil with Beru one (same CODE as the other three). No issues since. My mechanic also started using exclusively Beru coils for the BMWs he is fixing, as they seem to be better than Bosch.
 

LeonGrchz

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Which Ignition Coils have you put in?

I had a weird situation where I had three BERU coils in and one Bosch (because I replaced one original with Bosch) but then Bosch was not available when I replaced all of them and the mechanic only put three BERU inside because they were pretty much the same when testing them.

However, three months ago I started getting "ghost" Engine Repair lights. After turning the car on and off, all was fine. I checked the codes and the code for Bosch coil came up - it was intermittent. Sometimes it would work, sometimes not. Then I replaced the coil with Beru one (same CODE as the other three). No issues since. My mechanic also started using exclusively Beru coils for the BMWs he is fixing, as they seem to be better than Bosch.
That's weird. I fitted NGK 48206 in mine.
 

LeonGrchz

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1000032990.jpg1000032991.jpg1000032992.jpg1000032993.jpg

That's how my spark plugs look like. I ordered new ones!

All in cylinder order from 1 to 4. The fourth looks best and first looks worst, how's that?
 

Pedro

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Did you check the plug gaps as its critical for them to be set right otherwise they can overheat & also destroy the coil packs in worst case scenario if left too long
 

LeonGrchz

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Did you check the plug gaps as its critical for them to be set right otherwise they can overheat & also destroy the coil packs in worst case scenario if left too long
Hey sorry for the late reply.

I just have calipers and no thickness gauges so couldn't measure reliably it but looked fine.

Yesterday I changed sparkplugs, oil, oil filter and fitted a k&n air filter but the issue is still there...

If it's not spark, nor air can it be the (high pressure) fuel pump or fuel filter?

Don't know when the fuel filter was changed if ever...
 

NF7

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Hey sorry for the late reply.

I just have calipers and no thickness gauges so couldn't measure reliably it but looked fine.

Yesterday I changed sparkplugs, oil, oil filter and fitted a k&n air filter but the issue is still there...

If it's not spark, nor air can it be the (high pressure) fuel pump or fuel filter?

Don't know when the fuel filter was changed if ever...
Did you also change the ignition coils?

Fuel filter is highly unlikely (it is also a pain to change it). It is usually never changed in non-desert countries when it comes to RCZ.

HPFP is possible.
 

LeonGrchz

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Did you also change the ignition coils?

Fuel filter is highly unlikely (it is also a pain to change it). It is usually never changed in non-desert countries when it comes to RCZ.

HPFP is possible.
No I didn't change ignition coils, I changed them last year in April.

I visited the Peugeot dealer and they think it may be a compression problem.

Maybe I'll let them check for that but the compression test alone costs about 250€ and I don't even know how much the fix will cost if they find anything...

This is quite frustrating.

The car is running but can't drive it like it's supposed to be driven with high rpm. I'm just driving around with 3000 rpm at max and that's not fun at all.
 
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lfe

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With a 10€ ELM327 ODB II bluetooth connector and a free app like Torque, you can monitor fuel pressure while driving.

If it drops below 50bar when it stutters, the HPFP is faulty.
 
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LeonGrchz

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Quick update to the Topic:

I was at Peugeot. they cant tell me excactly what it is and just told me to use 100+ octane fuel and an fuel additive to get rid of dirty fuel injectors.

I found someone nearby who does intake valve and manifold walnutblasting for 400€ so ill do that and i will buy a compression test kit to compare before and after.

Also my exhaust is smoking white and smells bad... Can that be bad compression as well?
 

NF7

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Quick update to the Topic:

I was at Peugeot. they cant tell me excactly what it is and just told me to use 100+ octane fuel and an fuel additive to get rid of dirty fuel injectors.

I found someone nearby who does intake valve and manifold walnutblasting for 400€ so ill do that and i will buy a compression test kit to compare before and after.

Also my exhaust is smoking white and smells bad... Can that be bad compression as well?
What do you mean smells bad? Like rotten eggs?
 

Pedro

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The smell from the exhaust is normally burnt oil residues or condensate steam ?
 

NF7

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White smoke in RCZ is burnt oil, or steam when running the car up to temperature. But they do not have a distinct smell.

If the exhaust smells bad, this can be due to faulty catalytic converter.
 

lfe

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Mine also had a bad smell on cold start prior the HPFP was repaired, but I had cold start misfires, not at high rpm.

Now it still smells a little on cold start, but all petrol engines do that until the catalytic converter heats up.
 
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