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Engine Power Loss

RCZAuto

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I’m new on this so forgive me if not using correct format but looking for advice, thoughts or comments on an issue with my RCZ 2014 model in Automatic.

Only 26k miles but just experienced rapid power loss and engine light illuminated stating urgent engine fault: repair needed.

Engine still on (just) and car still drives but revs up 3-4000 before changing gear auto and max speed of 35.

Hear there is a recall due cooling system check but mine was not overheating.

Ideas?

Thx
 

neilgsxr69

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Hi and welcome to the forum :greetings-wavingblue: I’m presuming your running a petrol RCZ? So there are too many possible causes of limp mode to mention to be honest you need to get a diagnostic check done to point you in the right direction. :thumbup:
 

RCZAuto

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Any ideas where the OBD port is located inside the car.
 

RCZAuto

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Thx for the advice. Recovery guy has done a a quick diagnostic and it looks like a coil.
 

neilgsxr69

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Hopefully a cheap fix then :thumbup:
 

RCZAuto

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Very although somewhat frustrating.

Towed 50 miles home as no limp mode on motorway. Diagnostic next day shows cylinder No.1 faulty. Garage swapped coils 1 & 2 around and fault disappears. 20 miles test drive shows nothing wrong.

Intermittent fault

Well if nothing else, I’ve now learnt about Limp Mode thanks to the forum - appreciated.
 

RCZAuto

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So my prob from 2018 has reappeared. Annoying as just had the coil pack changed last month.
Cold engine (Auto) shuddered at a crossing soon after starting then pinged the engine fault light. Drove in limp mode before I switched it off for a bit. After restart, engine light returned however, no longer in limp mode. Will get it checked but interested in views/thoughts?
 

lfe

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Without knowing the fault codes, little can be said.

You can buy an ODB II connector with bluetooth and and with a mobile free application like Torque you can see the codes.

Also erase them so the light turns off.
 

RCZAuto

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It’s going in for diagnosis soon but great tip. Many thx.
Will update with outcome of diagnostic.
 

RCZAuto

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Update: Had local garage assess fault/code and it looks like the underlying cause for the ignition issue (engine fault), resulting in limp mode in cold startups, points at the High Pressure Fuel Pump unit. Allegedly, its a common problem! Annoying as it runs fine from 2nd startup.
Wondering what fellow RCZ owners say considering the replacement part from Peugeot is c£600.
 

Kerr

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Update: Had local garage assess fault/code and it looks like the underlying cause for the ignition issue (engine fault), resulting in limp mode in cold startups, points at the High Pressure Fuel Pump unit. Allegedly, its a common problem! Annoying as it runs fine from 2nd startup.
Wondering what fellow RCZ owners say considering the replacement part from Peugeot is c£600.

HPFP are very common failure.

There is a guy on eBay that refurbishes the pump for around £150. I've used him and would recommend.
 

BobM

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Update: Had local garage assess fault/code and it looks like the underlying cause for the ignition issue (engine fault), resulting in limp mode in cold startups, points at the High Pressure Fuel Pump unit. Allegedly, its a common problem! Annoying as it runs fine from 2nd startup.
Wondering what fellow RCZ owners say considering the replacement part from Peugeot is c£600.

I also used the guy on any and had the total job done for about £250 including reconditioning the pump that has been flawless since. Please check this thread I made detailing the process.


Cheers Bob
 

Scott1973

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I’m new on this so forgive me if not using correct format but looking for advice, thoughts or comments on an issue with my RCZ 2014 model in Automatic.

Only 26k miles but just experienced rapid power loss and engine light illuminated stating urgent engine fault: repair needed.

Engine still on (just) and car still drives but revs up 3-4000 before changing gear auto and max speed of 35.

Hear there is a recall due cooling system check but mine was not overheating.

Ideas?

Thx
Hi there

I had the same problem with mine a couple of weeks ago. R.A.C said it was the turbo boost control solenoid. So had that changed at a cost of 400 quid. Went fine for a week then the same problem. Got my mate to have a look whos a mecanic and he said it was the dump valve. I fitted that my self and the part cost 68 quid. Very tricky to fit but touch wood it has been fine since
 

RCZAuto

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To bring this thread to conclusion. My
Mechanic found a reasonably priced HPFP for me and replaced it. All above problems now sorted.
 

Verminator

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Great news that you have got it sorted out at last
Drive safe and stay lucky 🍀
Les n Co
 
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