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Engine Fault - Repair Needed

lucy.basten

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Hi Guys

I recently bought a 2013 RCZ, cars been working like a dream for 7 weeks, took the car into a garage for a full service, within 20 miles of leaving the garage the Engine fault warning light appeared and the cooling fan started running continuously, and continued for about 10 mins when the car was switched off. Car was taken back to the garage, they rechecked the service work they had done and cleared the codes.

Car ran fine for 2 weeks. Then the same issue happened again. Called the AA out, and they recorded a cylinder misfire and the temp on the diagnostic was running from -200 to +300. Took car to the garage and they replaced the temperature sensor and unit and replaced the misfiring cylinder. Drove the car around 40 miles and the engine fault happened again.

Car is now back in the garage. The car temperature does't ever go above 90 so the car isn't overheating, but the fan is just constantly running.

Does anyone have any experience of this or know what it could be? Not sure if its a coincidence that they car was fine until the garage performed the service on it. Just wondering if they could have done anything to the car, to make it behave this way.

All the regular checks have been done
- oil cap is tight
- new temp sensor
- fuel cap is sealed
- coolant and oil both fine
 

RCZIain

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What are they using to diagnose it? Ideally you want dealer level equipment.

Further to that, if it was on correct diagnostic equipment, did they tell you the codes they retrieved?

Having had experience in the past of "generic equipment" and it costing me a fair few quid after it guessing at problems, I bought myself the correct software.
 

neilgsxr69

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You say they diagnosed a misfire on one cylinder, what did they replace? The coil pack I’m guessing? If the HP fuel pump starts to fail it usually throws up a misfire on no 4 cylinder.
Let us know how you get on.
 

wilsofar

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I feel for you having had all your symptoms before.

I now can't remember what replacement part solved what particular fault as many combined faults can show up erroneous errors,which can lead you down the wrong track.

I do recall replacing the water expansion cap which had been letting water vapour smells into the cabin but don't know if that was just a side issue and not related to the main problem.

Have you checked if it has been properly tightened down - the garage may have topped up the water and not put the cap back securely giving false pressure readings.


I found that until I replaced the High pressure fuel pump many issues kept recurring despite having replaced timing chain,coil packs,plugs,temperature sensor,etc.
 

lucy.basten

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Thank you all for your replies.

They did provide me with the codes which I provided to the garage, I can't remember them off the top of my head but I will have a look at what they are. I'm not sure what diagnostic equipment they are using, would like ti think the breakdown assistance would be using proper tools, of course it won't be dealer specific i would imagine.

Cylinder no 1 was misfiring, the AA guy cleared the codes and switched 1 with 4 to see if the coil was causing the issue, the garage re-produced this issue and the no 4 cylinder registered a mis-fire. The coil in no 4 has been replaced.

Thanks for the water cap suggestion, I will check that. Waiting to hear back from the garage today, luckily it's a family friend so cost will be dramatically lower.

Will let you all know what they find out.
 

Plecodoras

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Hi lucy.basten,

There are several reasons that the fans run continuous after shut down and thus why it is important to get the error codes, as Neil has already mentioned fault on cylinder coil pack 4 usually indicates High Pressure fuel pump, which can be expensive to fix.
I had a similar episode just back in August with my fans staying on and coming on while driving, my car is under warranty and with a trip to Austria looming I was hoping it was the HPFP - it wasn't - my fault code indicated coil pack on cylinder 2 had failed, so with the trip imminent, I replaced all four and upto now still going strong.
Another fault I had on my first RCZ was to do with the coolant sensors / thermostat sensor, but you can usually see this one because your temp will shoot up past 90 straight away from starting and the fans come on instantly, luckily this is an easy fix.
Anyway, don't let this initial set back ruin your experience of a beautiful car as the RCZ, once it is repaired you will love it all over again.
good luck and please report back how you progress, as this might help others with similar issues.
Cheers M.... :beer:
 

bnblk17

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Sorry to raise an old thread, but I have the same issue with the temp gauge flicking to full then back down and the fan running at full tilt. It's currently in the garage (Peugeot) and the cost is rapidly climbing.

What was your issue Plecodoras?
 

tm2204

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Sorry to raise an old thread, but I have the same issue with the temp gauge flicking to full then back down and the fan running at full tilt. It's currently in the garage (Peugeot) and the cost is rapidly climbing.

What was your issue Plecodoras?

This sounds like a faulty coolant/thermostat sensor. This is located on the thermostat housing and is an easy fix with the replacement part not expensive 👍
 

Pedro

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The fan triggers when the ECU picks up that the Engine Temp is too hot so maybe the sensor or even a sticking thermostat is the cause but its a case of elimination using the code reader plugged into the car as far as misfires go they are normally usually associated with the plugs & coil packs & its recommended by Peugeot for the Prince engines that if they are failing you should replace all 4 packs & if necessary also the plugs
You need to ask the garage for the fault codes which will give members a chance to try & identify the warnings coming from the ECU as for the HPFP failing can mean the engine will have a flat spot or begin to stutter on acceleration & it will cause the fuel consumption to rise plus will send a continuous "engine repair needed message " on the dash I find it odd that after they have done a normal service this has occurred one of the problems with the RCZ & a lot of other makes is that the electrical systems are touch sensitive that means if a connector has been unplugged a signal is sent into the ECU's memory & then when the connector is put back that can trigger the Fault code because the ECU thinks a fault has occurred on that system that's why the reset is normally carried out by Peugeot when they do any servicing
 
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