danieldavid
New Member
Hi, after tackling the timing belt on my diesel rcz and having noticed no guidance video on youtube or thread n this site, ive listed what i did in cvase of help, though rely on your own checks.
I bought mine a year ago and was vaguely told that it had been done quite a few years ago it was thought. Given its at 146k, i obviously had to act for the cost of parts of only around £100 for everything. Ive looked at the old belts and they both still have writing on which suggests they mat be only 5 years old after all, but better to be safe than sorry. It was a bit tricky to say the least given the space available to work in compared to larger engine bay peugeots with that engine.
Took driverw wheel off, removed the 12 or so plastic studs that hold the wheel arch liner, took the big rubber gromit out over the crankshaft pully with a screwdriver and pulling it. (the only tool i had for timing was a tipex tube and the cheap £5 set of 4 pins from ebay. I also took off the undertray, except the two back screws that couldnt be removed as siezed, so left on ground.
I took the serpentine belt off by using a socket on the tensioner to detension it clockwise.
I locked the crankshaft by putting in 6th gear then taking 2 bits of wood andf forcing down on the brake pedal to lock the brakes uding the front electric seat. I then spent an hour locking 3 socket sets together and using a meter long scaffold bar on an axle stand and bricks to keep the socket set straight and not twist the bolt to not snap it, using my body weight on the scaffold bar, and got the tightest bolt ive ever come acrtoss out after an hour! i put a brick vertically through the hole in undertray and a brick to edge of undertry next to axlestand and a bit of wood across so i could jack the engine slightly with a thin bit of wood off of it under sump. I spent ages trying to get the two covers off using tiny spannersk i think there were about 7 bolts and a nut to remove. I eventually got the two plastic covers out by twisting these and removing the attached wire clips to crankshaft sensor. Oh i took the crankshaft sensor itself off to get the 2 plastic covers off, as well as the two metal discs off the crankshaft. I put the crankshaft bolt back, knocked out of gear and rotated to lock camshaft pin. I market top with tipex (not top dead centre but just the upper most part of the camshaft sprocket. I market it T for top, and market the bottom of the crankshaft with B and a mark with tipex as well. I undid the tensioner and prised the old belt off. I then carefully put the exact same 2 marks on the new belt with T and B with tipex and put back after fitting new tensioner and nut before tightening. I also took the water pump out and used a nylon scourer to remove residue and put back new one with new gasket. The tensioner was extremely difficult to see, so i had to tension by feeling the tightness of the belt, as couldnt see any arrows or marks, i pulled out the tiny pin as well, was very difficult to work out from the INA tensioner and actually see anything in position even with a mirror, so i tensioned to the touch from beneath, the belt feels about right. I tightened the tensioner up with a spanner tight. To get the tensioner out and in was a struggle, i loosed the engine mount on car side using a 6 sided tight socket as didnt have the female exact torx, only male ones, and used a couple of crow bars to get a bit of lift to get the tensioner in and out. Once i had carefully taken out the crank bolt again with it in gear, i reinstated the car side engine mount bolts and 2 poastic covers and small bolts and screw holding them using tiny spanners, put back the crank sensor and two disks over the crank, and put in gear with brake applied via electric seat and wood and tighteneed it up with my body weight on 2 feet of socket set lenght to get torque using my body weight.
I rotated it about 6 times and theres only air resistance, as the tipex marks line up from old belt to new belt. Before doing this i had taken out the one locking tool i used on the camshaft.
Coolant then is replaced with around 50% antifreeze, im using a filter jug to remove minerals from tap water. I took the opportunity to clean and hammerrite all the components and under wing arch while the plastic arch cover was removed. Plastic arch cover and undertray put back in place after this. Whole job i found fiddly, but in case helps anyone doing this DIY, cheers.
I replaced the serpentite belt tensioner as well, this is with a large allen key 6 side male, i got almost everything via ebay fron parts in motion, i got discount codes though, it was all around £100. £67 for the timing belt kit (had a tensioner and bolt left over this must be for cars with an additional tensioner), £13 for the serpentite belt, £22 dfor the serpentine tensioner pulley.
I bought mine a year ago and was vaguely told that it had been done quite a few years ago it was thought. Given its at 146k, i obviously had to act for the cost of parts of only around £100 for everything. Ive looked at the old belts and they both still have writing on which suggests they mat be only 5 years old after all, but better to be safe than sorry. It was a bit tricky to say the least given the space available to work in compared to larger engine bay peugeots with that engine.
Took driverw wheel off, removed the 12 or so plastic studs that hold the wheel arch liner, took the big rubber gromit out over the crankshaft pully with a screwdriver and pulling it. (the only tool i had for timing was a tipex tube and the cheap £5 set of 4 pins from ebay. I also took off the undertray, except the two back screws that couldnt be removed as siezed, so left on ground.
I took the serpentine belt off by using a socket on the tensioner to detension it clockwise.
I locked the crankshaft by putting in 6th gear then taking 2 bits of wood andf forcing down on the brake pedal to lock the brakes uding the front electric seat. I then spent an hour locking 3 socket sets together and using a meter long scaffold bar on an axle stand and bricks to keep the socket set straight and not twist the bolt to not snap it, using my body weight on the scaffold bar, and got the tightest bolt ive ever come acrtoss out after an hour! i put a brick vertically through the hole in undertray and a brick to edge of undertry next to axlestand and a bit of wood across so i could jack the engine slightly with a thin bit of wood off of it under sump. I spent ages trying to get the two covers off using tiny spannersk i think there were about 7 bolts and a nut to remove. I eventually got the two plastic covers out by twisting these and removing the attached wire clips to crankshaft sensor. Oh i took the crankshaft sensor itself off to get the 2 plastic covers off, as well as the two metal discs off the crankshaft. I put the crankshaft bolt back, knocked out of gear and rotated to lock camshaft pin. I market top with tipex (not top dead centre but just the upper most part of the camshaft sprocket. I market it T for top, and market the bottom of the crankshaft with B and a mark with tipex as well. I undid the tensioner and prised the old belt off. I then carefully put the exact same 2 marks on the new belt with T and B with tipex and put back after fitting new tensioner and nut before tightening. I also took the water pump out and used a nylon scourer to remove residue and put back new one with new gasket. The tensioner was extremely difficult to see, so i had to tension by feeling the tightness of the belt, as couldnt see any arrows or marks, i pulled out the tiny pin as well, was very difficult to work out from the INA tensioner and actually see anything in position even with a mirror, so i tensioned to the touch from beneath, the belt feels about right. I tightened the tensioner up with a spanner tight. To get the tensioner out and in was a struggle, i loosed the engine mount on car side using a 6 sided tight socket as didnt have the female exact torx, only male ones, and used a couple of crow bars to get a bit of lift to get the tensioner in and out. Once i had carefully taken out the crank bolt again with it in gear, i reinstated the car side engine mount bolts and 2 poastic covers and small bolts and screw holding them using tiny spanners, put back the crank sensor and two disks over the crank, and put in gear with brake applied via electric seat and wood and tighteneed it up with my body weight on 2 feet of socket set lenght to get torque using my body weight.
I rotated it about 6 times and theres only air resistance, as the tipex marks line up from old belt to new belt. Before doing this i had taken out the one locking tool i used on the camshaft.
Coolant then is replaced with around 50% antifreeze, im using a filter jug to remove minerals from tap water. I took the opportunity to clean and hammerrite all the components and under wing arch while the plastic arch cover was removed. Plastic arch cover and undertray put back in place after this. Whole job i found fiddly, but in case helps anyone doing this DIY, cheers.
I replaced the serpentite belt tensioner as well, this is with a large allen key 6 side male, i got almost everything via ebay fron parts in motion, i got discount codes though, it was all around £100. £67 for the timing belt kit (had a tensioner and bolt left over this must be for cars with an additional tensioner), £13 for the serpentite belt, £22 dfor the serpentine tensioner pulley.
![IMG_20251216_144854[1].jpg](https://www.peugeotrczforum.com/data/attachments/13/13106-783ed9380b8ac0599441d7cef1f0eee2.jpg "IMG_20251216_144854[1].jpg")
![IMG_20251216_144508[1].jpg](https://www.peugeotrczforum.com/data/attachments/13/13105-09ba035b8e00b4469de311aa7b94620a.jpg "IMG_20251216_144508[1].jpg")