Diamondbrite ... Has anyone done this??

[Anonymous]

Hiya,

I was telling a friend today that I had ordered my new RCZ yesterday and he asked me whether i had opted to have the car 'Diamondbrited' (inside and out).

My dealer did offer this option but it was an extra £300 so I declined.

You would imagine my surprise then when my friend gave me a box wit everything I need.

1. Stage 1 sachet
2. Stage 2 sachet
3. Lint free cloths
4. Carpet protection spray
5. Leather protection cream
6. Tyre water resister
7. Windscreen water repellent.

Has anyone used this product, if so is it anygood?

Also the box I have has no instructions in it, ..... Obvious question, but where do I start?

And help appreciated.

Andy (soon to be the proud new owner or a nera black RCZ GT156thp.... :beer: )

 

[Anonymous]

your car is nero black is it not?well the diamondbright is really just polish basically and not worth even a third of what the dealer was charging you anyhow.

stage 1 and 2 are for the paint i would apply this stuff very thinly on JUST ONE AT A TIME then remove from the car at one panel at a time.DO NOT do the whole car at the same, then remove as this can be really tough to remove

i got 1 of my cars supergaurded grande punto without even knowing it fiat charge £250 for it but it was done by the dealership as i specced special paint,anyhow it came with a extra little superguard kit which i used later on my car and it very hard work to remove by hand it would have better to use a da polisher,the rest of the is of less concern and is easily applied to the interior but the tyre stuff is not a life long application like the paint protection

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Jassyo06.
Lol....I'm reluctant to even unpack the stuff now.

Andy

 

[Anonymous]

I used a professional detailer, who charged about the same as one of these dealer provided options. I believe that I got the better deal as my car was worked on for a whole day and looked amazing at the end of it. I am told that the valetors at the dealerships are not allowed enough time to do a good quality job. My advice therefore is to seek out a professional and get what you are paying for

 

[Anonymous]

Ron, thats intersting, I have asked them to do this on mine what would I search for in the yellow pages todo it rather than them. Valetors?

 

[Anonymous]

I had the Gardx treatment applied by my dealer, which i guess is simular the the diamond brite.

I'm more than happy with the Gardx, in fact i had a call out of the blue from the Gardx area manager last friday, asking what i thought of the product, he also confirmed that you DO NOT have to continue purchasing their conserver to keep the gaurantee in force. Just not true !
It's a one off treatment with a 3 year gaurantee, simples :thumbup:

Anyway getting back to the treatment in question, the most important thing with this type of treatment is that the paintwork is thoroughly cleaned before the treatment is applied, it has to be immaculate, this is what your paying for, time in preping the paintwork, not the product, that is not that expensive, it's all down to the preperation.
Like they say time is money !

You can go to a detailer have the car fully detailed and waxed, which will need topping up at intervals , and she will look fantastic.
My only slight gripe about having someone detail your car is that you still have to top up on the waxing, but with the treatment they say it lasts up to 3 years ?
I dont know how much truth is that quote but after 5 months my car still looks and feels like it has just been polished and waxed.

OR you could have the same detailing done by a dealer OR detailer but have a treatment applied instead of the waxing which does not need topping up for the gauranteed time stated on your gaurantee, however if you feel the need to still polish and wax on top of the treatment if you can if you want to, (DO NOT USE A CUTTING POLISH) this will remove the treatment but any good quality resin polish is ok, i use Autoglym Super Resin polish.

I find that any marks, like tar, birdmess, water marks ect ect just hose off, in fact i park my car under an cherry blossom tree and the sap just wipes off with a damp cloth, on my last car it was a nightmare to remove.

Just make sure the car is prepped thoroughly and all will be fine, at the end of the day you have a 3 year written gaurantee so if your not happy take it back.

If your doing it yourself, well like i say CLEAN AND POLISH IT THOROUGHLY BEFORE APPLYING THE TREATMENT, otherwise any contamination or marks will be trapped under the treatment, this can be removed but it's a pain as you will need to clay or use a slightly abrasive polish to remove the treatment and the offending marks.

Personaly i would get a profesional to do it, as you can always go back if you are unhappy.
Like most things, if it's done right it's great, if it's not then it's a pain in the bum.

 

[RCZ1]

Hi Andrew

Diamondbrite and all these sort of paint protections are sealants. Preparation for all sealants and waxes is exactly the same - your paintwork has to be squeaky clean and defect free ie swirls, scratches removed before its applied otherwise they will just be sealed over. I had diamondbrite applied to my last car but unfortunatly the care and time was not taken to prepare the paintwork properly hence swirls and dried watermarks were all underneath the sealant, so I had to remove it and then gave my car the love and protection that it deserved. I've never looked back since that day. Its not a bad product, it just needs applying properly.

I've never applied this particular sealant myself but I hope you find the following helpful:

you should have 2 packets stage 1 and stage 2.
apply stage 1 neat in straight lines rubbing in nicely and leave for 15-20 mins. it will look very dull and cloudy.this is normal. (aswell as doing the body do the lights aswel and wheels)

then when stage 1 is dry apply stage 2 all over the places where you have applied with stage 1. also apply it in straight lines and leave to dry for 15 mins.

then use a good quality microfibre cloth to buff it off. Use different cloths for each stage

Make sure you dont get loads in the cracks of panels because its a ******* to get off!!

 

[Anonymous]

Hi,
Do you live near me (Kent) if you do then PM me as I have the paint work kit spare (know someone at a dealer :thumbup: )
It has the full instructions on the bottles.
Did you guys know its made in Maidstone Kent ?

Paul141 :beer:

 

[Anonymous]

Hiya Paul. Thanks for the offer mate, but when you say you have the paintwork kit spare do you mean the stage 1 & 2 finishes.
If so, I've got that,but just no instructions to put the bloody stuff on...lol!.

Andy

 

[Anonymous]

Hiya Paul. Thanks for the offer mate, but when you say you have the paintwork kit spare do you mean the stage 1 & 2 finishes.
If so, I've got that,but just no instructions to put the bloody stuff on...lol!.

Andy

Andy,
I can get you the instructions off the kits I have, no problem, watch this space.


Paul

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Paul...
Nice one thanks mate, really appreciate it.

Andy

 

[Anonymous]

Off the back of the bottles

Jewelultra Diamondbrite
Stage 1 Pre-Glaze
Apply Diamondbrite pre-glaze section by section using a soft clean cloth or with a fine spray gun and allow to dull for a few minutes.
DO NOT REMOVE THE DULLED PRE-GLAZE YET
Then apply Diamondbrite Glaze stage 2 over it.
The pre-glaze acts as a base for fusing together the stage 2 glaze to form an extremely durable protective film on your vehicles paintwork.

Stage 2 Glaze
Apply Stage 2 Glaze over the dulled pre-glaze section by section using a soft clean cloth and in straight lines (NOT circular motions)

On completing the whole vehicle allow to dull for at least 15 min before polishing off with a clean cloth
Applying or removing Stage 2 in circular motion may cause swirl marks........................
We therefore do not recommend that a buffing machine is used.

Can be applied to rubber and chrome

Paul141