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Cooling system error codes

bnblk17

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Hi people. My RCZ is the garage again. Just had a call from them to say there are error codes.

P 1655 - engine running system info - short circuit to positive

P1656 - engine running system info - short circuit to earth

P023B - control of coolant pump actuator - short to earth

P023C - control of coolant pump actuator - short to positive

There came up after working on cam timings and replacing cam cover gasket.

Anyone have any idea why this might come up?

Many thanks, Ben
 

Pedro

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I can only find 2 which give a indication of power loss for Peugeot Generic codes
P1655/1656 Starter Disable Malfunction
023B/023C Turbo(TC) Intercooler coolant pump circuit low
Does the car start or turn over? has the ECU poor communication for the timing parameters ?
Check condition of Battery ? Maybe a connection issue ? Short to earth ? short to positive? BSI no signal recognition maybe a power drop off wiring harness Engine ?
Starter system fault can be attributed to = Battery?Alternator? Starter Motor?
No disrespect to the Mechanic but is the Timing set up correctly ?
 

Jack lati

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Good day i am currently having the exact same problem, did you manage to sort out the problem ?
 

Lanciaman

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Not saying this is valid, but I did it for my own curiosity. AI reply below.

Likely cause — electrical fault in the turbo/intercooler electric coolant pump circuit (wiring/connector or pump) and possibly a related ECU/BSI input fault.
What the codes mean (concise)
  • P023B / P023C — Charge-air (turbo/intercooler) coolant pump control circuit: low (short to earth) and high (short to positive). These indicate the ECU is seeing both over-voltage and under-voltage / short conditions on the pump circuit or its sensor feedback.
  • P1655 / P1656 — Engine running system info / starter-disable type faults showing both short-to-positive and short-to-earth on the related control/communication line — suggests the same wiring loom/connector or a module input is unstable.
Most probable faults (ranked)
  1. Damaged wiring or chafed insulation around the intercooler/coolant-pump harness (especially where it routes near the cam cover if that was recently worked on).
  2. Poor connector contact or contaminated/bent pins at the coolant-pump plug or at the engine ECU/BSI connector.
  3. Failed electric coolant pump (internal shorting) or its internal control electronics.
  4. Faulty ECU/BSI (less likely) or temporary re-learn/communication error after work.
Recommended checks (step-by-step)
  1. With battery disconnected, visually inspect the coolant pump connector and wiring from pump to ECU for pin damage, corrosion, melted insulation, or recent disturbed clips.
  2. Wiggle-test wiring and connectors while scanning live data (or have garage do this) to reproduce voltage errors.
  3. Measure with a multimeter: check for short to earth and short to +12V at the pump connector pins (engine off). Compare to expected: one pin should have switched supply when commanded, the other ground/return or signal.
  4. If wiring/connector are good, bench-test or swap in a known-good pump (or temporarily supply correct voltage to pump) to confirm pump operation.
  5. If pump and wiring test OK, have ECU/BSI inputs tested (dealer-level diagnostic), clear codes and re-run while monitoring.
Immediate precautions
  • Don’t ignore: if the pump is not running or circuit is unstable you can get overheating / turbo charge-air cooling loss and limp mode.
  • Avoid repeated cranking if electrical shorts are suspected.
What to tell the garage
  • Ask them to focus on the intercooler/turbo electric coolant pump circuit: inspect wiring and connectors near the cam cover/engine loom, measure for shorts to + and earth at the pump connector, and confirm pump draws correct current. If wiring/connector OK, replace the pump; if still present, request ECU/BSI module diagnostic.
If you want, I can give a short pinout checklist for the RCZ pump connector and expected voltages (assume engine off/on) — tell me your engine code/year and I’ll provide it.

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