Yes had many phase 2 Volvo V40's and XC90 too. great reliable well thought through cars
Peugeot RCZ Forum
Register a free account today to become a member. It's free! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, connect with other members through your own private inbox and take part in competitions!
Coolant Loss, no heat in car - have I a head gasket or air lock issue ?
- Thread starter rczpali
- Start date
This is the diagram of the part from Peugeot . 
which matches the NAPA unit I ordered . however the connections on the stat on the car are different .The unit I have has a lead into the top of the unit near where the bleed screw now is , and also a 4 pin oblong shaped connector.. Is the item marked 10 the connection which would be on top of ,my current old stat?
which matches the NAPA unit I ordered . however the connections on the stat on the car are different .The unit I have has a lead into the top of the unit near where the bleed screw now is , and also a 4 pin oblong shaped connector.. Is the item marked 10 the connection which would be on top of ,my current old stat?
Been out pressuring the system with my new pressure test kit. 
pressure drops ..... and quite quickly. can see water escaping over the top of the gearbox housing it looks like somewhere between thermostat to rear cross pipe or on the seam of the thermostat. just too tight and not enough light to pinpoint . At least I know i've found one leak, Looking at the new stat I have maybe its modified part, just I need an adapter harness like HouYeen Thermostat Housing Wiring Loom for P-eugeot 207 208 308 3008 C-itroen Berlingo C3 C4 Picasso M-ini R55 R56 R57 1.6 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive . Also thinking I should get a pipe as precaution . Would this do? Water Coolant Pump Hose Pipe Replacement for Peugeot Citroen Berlingo C3 C4 C5 DS3 DS4 DS5 Opel Grandland X Peugeot 2008 207 208 3008 307 308 5008 508 Partner Rcz 1351.VF 1351VF : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive £10 or OEM @ nearer £40.
pressure drops ..... and quite quickly. can see water escaping over the top of the gearbox housing it looks like somewhere between thermostat to rear cross pipe or on the seam of the thermostat. just too tight and not enough light to pinpoint . At least I know i've found one leak, Looking at the new stat I have maybe its modified part, just I need an adapter harness like HouYeen Thermostat Housing Wiring Loom for P-eugeot 207 208 308 3008 C-itroen Berlingo C3 C4 Picasso M-ini R55 R56 R57 1.6 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive . Also thinking I should get a pipe as precaution . Would this do? Water Coolant Pump Hose Pipe Replacement for Peugeot Citroen Berlingo C3 C4 C5 DS3 DS4 DS5 Opel Grandland X Peugeot 2008 207 208 3008 307 308 5008 508 Partner Rcz 1351.VF 1351VF : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive £10 or OEM @ nearer £40.
Is there not a lead in the box?
With Febi there is.
Pic below is just a quick take from the internet.
Make you life a little easier and take the air box out completel, you’ll need to take the top of first to allow enough room to get the bottom out twisting and wiggling as you go. The air box has one screw to the left front holding it in place, then it’s on rubber pop grommets. The grommets may try and ‘escape’ when you pull up so just watch out for that.
Least you know where your leaking from, just to get the new one on, fill and bleed and dispel the hg fears. Everything you have said so far, I think sort this and you’ll be grand.
With Febi there is.
Pic below is just a quick take from the internet.
Make you life a little easier and take the air box out completel, you’ll need to take the top of first to allow enough room to get the bottom out twisting and wiggling as you go. The air box has one screw to the left front holding it in place, then it’s on rubber pop grommets. The grommets may try and ‘escape’ when you pull up so just watch out for that.
Least you know where your leaking from, just to get the new one on, fill and bleed and dispel the hg fears. Everything you have said so far, I think sort this and you’ll be grand.
Thanks for the tip about the air box. and your help. keeping me going hoping I am making progress. been frustrating with weather, time poor , not getting off to best start with this car. still it looks great stationary
.....I've done all I have this evening with the battery tray in place. Weather isnt the best and its cold... Hoping for kinder weather tomorrow so I can remove wheel, arch liner and get to that bolt . Hoping then I can actually get a better view . Still struggling a bit with the loom, does it just pull out from the top of the thermostat , or is there a secret to disconnecting other connetors ?
Probably over cautious -reluctant to yank at it as it all seems very flimsy and brittle .
Tomorrow hoping to make a lot more progress
hoping I am making progress. been frustrating with weather, time poor , not getting off to best start with this car. still it looks great stationary .....I've done all I have this evening with the battery tray in place. Weather isnt the best and its cold... Hoping for kinder weather tomorrow so I can remove wheel, arch liner and get to that bolt . Hoping then I can actually get a better view . Still struggling a bit with the loom, does it just pull out from the top of the thermostat , or is there a secret to disconnecting other connetors ?
Probably over cautious -reluctant to yank at it as it all seems very flimsy and brittle .
Tomorrow hoping to make a lot more progress
The plugs all have little ‘tangs’ to stop them from falling or vibrating out. The little tang lifts away a tiny bit to allow the plug to be gently pulled out. It should be a fight so so long as the tang is clear.
ps Change the word tang to clip, latch or whatever. If I get a mo I’ll try and take a couple pics on something in my engine bay, you’ll excuse me though for not pulling all my air pipes etc out to get a the temp sensor itself.
I am curious how you get on with the NAPA part, I had napa front discs and pads in my 308 for 3/4 weeks, the pads were under size and shifted in the caliper when reversing and forward moving into parking spaces, you could hear click click as it shifted back and fourth. I know have Mtec in and after 6 months needs to change them as pass side is warped. Brembo in the rcz and no issue, but just my tuppence.
pic of tang being released, nicked from a YouTube vid, not the same sensor but same idea plug.
ps Change the word tang to clip, latch or whatever. If I get a mo I’ll try and take a couple pics on something in my engine bay, you’ll excuse me though for not pulling all my air pipes etc out to get a the temp sensor itself.
I am curious how you get on with the NAPA part, I had napa front discs and pads in my 308 for 3/4 weeks, the pads were under size and shifted in the caliper when reversing and forward moving into parking spaces, you could hear click click as it shifted back and fourth. I know have Mtec in and after 6 months needs to change them as pass side is warped. Brembo in the rcz and no issue, but just my tuppence.
pic of tang being released, nicked from a YouTube vid, not the same sensor but same idea plug.
Last edited:
Just be hopeful that the crack in the thermostat housing was not there and ignored or missed by PO.
Maybe pressure test the system again after fitting the pipe but before filling, only as a vacuum??
I am fairly sure the one below is for your car, see lower down in the add where it refs the cable, and it’s OE.
These guys are very helpful and will check your part to reg So you can be that bit more confident the scraped knuckles will only happen once (Er hopefully).
These guys are very helpful and will check your part to reg So you can be that bit more confident the scraped knuckles will only happen once (Er hopefully).
OE Thermostat & Housing Mini R55 R56 R57 One Cooper S & JCW 1.4 1.6 Petrol | eBay UK
Mini R57 Convertible - all Petrol One, Cooper & Cooper S upto 2010 & JCW upto 2012. Mini R56 Hatch - all Petrol One, Cooper & Cooper S upto 2010 & JCW upto 2012. Mini R55 Clubman - all Petrol One, Cooper & Cooper S upto 2010 & JCW upto 2012.
www.ebay.co.uk
Thanks Eddiie J appreciate all your support... please dont dismantle your car ! right now I am wishing I never bought mine, this is a pig of a job and its cold , raining ... but hopefully by end the end of the day I might be more positive.... I've managed to move the cabling such that I have some access. I think everything had been disturbed before for HPFP replacement , there are tie wraps everywhere cutting a few of these has freed the loom a little , not much
Seem to have hit a snag disconnecting the plug for the HPFP , not sure where the tang or clip release is. thats why im back at my PC trying to find a video that might help.
Managed to remove the wheel arch liner, and battery tray. need to look inside the wheelarch as theres lots of wet mud collected , definite rust points that need cleaning another day.
Drained coolant from bottom rad hose... then have taken off the two rad to stat pipes from the stat. the pipe below for the turbo I presume just came away , so another leaking point , now my quandary is how that rubber pipe is removed from the other end , which seems to be a metal pip to the turbo. can it be removed ... seems to be crud , silt , collected in there.... maybe I vaccum it out?
the heater matrix connectiosn also seem to be difficult. My hose clamp tool doesnt seem to want to work on the lower pipe, and the other one I need to work out how it undoes .. It seems to have a metal / plastic type clip.
Thats where I am right now ...
Seem to have hit a snag disconnecting the plug for the HPFP , not sure where the tang or clip release is. thats why im back at my PC trying to find a video that might help.
Managed to remove the wheel arch liner, and battery tray. need to look inside the wheelarch as theres lots of wet mud collected , definite rust points that need cleaning another day.
Drained coolant from bottom rad hose... then have taken off the two rad to stat pipes from the stat. the pipe below for the turbo I presume just came away , so another leaking point , now my quandary is how that rubber pipe is removed from the other end , which seems to be a metal pip to the turbo. can it be removed ... seems to be crud , silt , collected in there.... maybe I vaccum it out?
the heater matrix connectiosn also seem to be difficult. My hose clamp tool doesnt seem to want to work on the lower pipe, and the other one I need to work out how it undoes .. It seems to have a metal / plastic type clip.
Thats where I am right now ...
Thanks for heads up on the part. I tried them and they confirmed it wont fit , and that they dont carry the part. I think its the coolant sensor and that bleed screw position . Not sure tha NAPA will be better however the bleed screw is where the coolant sensor is on my current stat , and the coolant sensor on the NAPA is forward facing where I hope there is clearance .
OK all out , looks like the outlet had disintegrated / cracked on the turbo hose joint , and also on the seam theres staining . O Ring on the waterpipe and also gasket look tired compared to new on the NAPA stat. will add pictures later. Looks like it will fit OK too . My initial dismay with the part was purely the cable now hopefully resolved when the amazon delivery arrives.
It is a pig to do, but once you have it done I truly hope you get the enjoyment of actually driving it.
Can’t remember the ins and out, I didn’t touch the hpfp Doing that stat housing.
I am slightly biased, but I think they are great handling cars and look fantastic, ps if you think it’s a pig to do in an RCZ, have a look into a Mini engine bay as the same engine got squished in there with even less room to do anything.
Can’t remember the ins and out, I didn’t touch the hpfp Doing that stat housing.
I am slightly biased, but I think they are great handling cars and look fantastic, ps if you think it’s a pig to do in an RCZ, have a look into a Mini engine bay as the same engine got squished in there with even less room to do anything.
I am going to add a wee off topic note in, there was talk a wee bit back about mayo in oil caps indicating failed head gaskets.
What do you think of this one on one of my other cars?
What do you think of this one on one of my other cars?
Attachments
-
1765038917591.jpeg
Ive done my time with Audi A2s , they have a similar water pipe that fails called the death pipe ... Its a pig of a job too, but this is worse in terms of dismantling I have connected all the coolant side up and added pressure to 10PSi at moment holidng steady. Might leave overnight now and resume in the morning with reassembly.
that would suggest HGF to me or on the way to but I presume youre going to tell me its been like that for sometime and going strong?
There is an instant jump to foam being indicative of an hgf, but it’s not.
Cars that are continuously only used for short journeys can gather condensation in the engine and can manifests up top as foam, a long journey can clear that up and if used on longer journeys it would never have been there. It can be a sign to look towards the head gaskets, but not used as the only diagnosis. Even the use of different oil types for top ups can cause it due to different detergents in them. At the same speak, an engine used continuously for short journeys and with a heavy build up of foam can lead to excessive wear on other components, but that’s another day. I’ll do anything but decorate today
That cap is a prime example, the car has done about 1500 miles since last service and 100% has not got a blown head gasket letting coolant into the engine.
There is the rest of the engine, it’s an air cooled beetle. Just want to dispel a myth that foam equals hgf.
Cars that are continuously only used for short journeys can gather condensation in the engine and can manifests up top as foam, a long journey can clear that up and if used on longer journeys it would never have been there. It can be a sign to look towards the head gaskets, but not used as the only diagnosis. Even the use of different oil types for top ups can cause it due to different detergents in them. At the same speak, an engine used continuously for short journeys and with a heavy build up of foam can lead to excessive wear on other components, but that’s another day. I’ll do anything but decorate today
That cap is a prime example, the car has done about 1500 miles since last service and 100% has not got a blown head gasket letting coolant into the engine.
There is the rest of the engine, it’s an air cooled beetle. Just want to dispel a myth that foam equals hgf.
Attachments
-
IMG_1330.jpeg