A
Anonymous
Guest
Just sorted this by installing a new sensor!
It annoyed me that an expensive item monitoring an important function should fail even though it failed 'safe'.
(The mark1 eyeball was always 100% reliable.)
I did a search to see what others had done and found a claim that cleaning the electrodes would fix it - not in my case hence the new sensor.
Since I now had time to investigate the sealed unit, I cut through the cover at 45deg through the radius of the flange to expose the electronics.
The electrodes are soldered into the circuit board and it was immediately obvious that one was not connected and the other was intermittent. (if you are lucky with the cleaning operation the joint probably re-connects for a short while.)
These were re-soldered and the cover replaced using epoxy adhesive.
I now have a known good spare for when the new one fails!
It annoyed me that an expensive item monitoring an important function should fail even though it failed 'safe'.
(The mark1 eyeball was always 100% reliable.)
I did a search to see what others had done and found a claim that cleaning the electrodes would fix it - not in my case hence the new sensor.
Since I now had time to investigate the sealed unit, I cut through the cover at 45deg through the radius of the flange to expose the electronics.
The electrodes are soldered into the circuit board and it was immediately obvious that one was not connected and the other was intermittent. (if you are lucky with the cleaning operation the joint probably re-connects for a short while.)
These were re-soldered and the cover replaced using epoxy adhesive.
I now have a known good spare for when the new one fails!
Attachments
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RCZcoolantsensor.jpg