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Haven’t tried any other brands but I have an Xtron unit fitted, been in well over a year and no issues once I got it fully setup. i did have to purchase a different canbus decoder than was supplied. also found xtron staff helpful when setting up and looking some info

Hope this sorts it for you, I’d hate not to be able to turn the key and go when the notion takes.

I know sometimes needs must, but no, no, don’t put a tow bar on an RCZ. Since they came to market I have been fortunate to have never set eyes on such an abomination. PS, just winding, it’s yours to do as you please.

Jeepers, going deep. Hope you get sorted, keeps us posted.

Good luck, ps might be a loose Vanos bolt from not torquing enough or when a tiny amount of oil on its mating surface.

Hold the spring down, put a pick or small screw driver in between the two grooves and flick forward the little cover plate (from memory, it likes to travel so watch it). You should now see a torx head screw, T20 I think.

I found out the hard way there is a screw, but I now have three spares… Ill pop out to the garage in a little while and take a pic of a lose one so you can see how it goes.

Ouch, not a fouled sensor or such then, not good news, feel for you. Before you go buying a cam, what else got damaged along the way, I think you might be better awaiting confirmation of any other items like valves, piston tops, cam bearing caps etc. I I think I would want to know why? Ie timing...

I am only chucking this in as a wee bit of a start, others may be able to give you further. P1062 & P1067 (and a few others with them) I’d be focusing on three things first. Cam position sensor, starting to fail or fouled in some way can give misleading VVT/cam position, should be visible on...

Just thought I’d pop a few pics of the two of them all cleaned up nice at a local meet. Anybody else up to much?

i use Gliptone gentle cleaner and conditioner. Have used few other types in the past, like autoglym but fount the gliptone the best to date. Time and effort are key though.

well done, be good to get an update on this as time passes.

Hi, I am newish to forum but never actually introduced myself, so here goes, I am Edd and had a thing for RCZs when they first appeared, first one back about 2010, 1.6 156 petrol in Dolphin blue loved it. Got the chance to upgrade a few years later to a Gt 1.6 200 petrol in Grey….lovely car...

So being an older car (2012) it collected a few battle scars (stone chips), mainly on the front bumper. I eventually got round to getting it sorted and I’d swear she’s smiling at me in this pic in a way of thanks. Just to get it cleaned up again of all the bugs that hitched a ride on the bumper...

You might be better with a socket and a torque wrench, i will check a bulletin I have in the garage later to confirm but I recall 80/90Nm. Original TSB said 60Nm, but that was raised as the early prince engines leaked at the aluminium washer your leaking at after a handful of heat cycles. In...

ps, looking at your picture I think your seals on your oil filter housing have dried and cracked causing it to leak where the filter housing meet the block or your turbo oil feed pipe, both noted leak points and best done together. If you’re handy it’s not an expensive job to sort, tho cat needs...

this is what I used on my mk1 RCZ Fitting kit (good dose of copper grease etc always useful) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191790071422 Undertray...

If it’s of any use, my Rcz came with the half tray underneath and as I wanted to keep the underside of the engine clean after detailing it I bought a full tray of eBay (brand new aftermarket, fits okay) and a fitting kit. Wasn’t dear, think about £40 + £10 for the kit. I will look up the details...

Nice and tidy looking, health to enjoy.

Much of a muchness when you times four and add postage, but hey whatever works.