Recent content by EddieJ

the tensioners on the very early cars were only getting torqued at the factory to 60Nm (from memory) and after a bunch of heat cycles they started leaking. Was a service recall back in the day, up to 80/90 Nm now. With all the items done that you have, should keep the oil in the right place...

Go all in on the top and front, valve cover, filter housing to block gaskets as well as the pre mentioned feed pipe. Check the pipe on the right hand end of the valve cover too, from pcv to cold turbo pipe, tends to stretch with heat cycles and allow a wee bit of a weep which can look like an...

Not saying that turbos from eBay are all bad, but you might be better to find a local(ish) respected turbo refurb company. It may work out cheaper in the end as it may only need a resell or something straightforward. Whatever route you do go down, be sure to put a new turbo feed pipe on when...

I have my 1.6 156 and am absolutely chuffed with how it drives, handling and performance. Car has a couple of tiny mods to improve it, cloth seats out and leather electric in. Slight mechanical mods to engine to reduce lag but visually kept stock (not a fan of those silly red/blue silicone air...

You can download the manual here: LINK

Put battery on a long charge, if you have a conditioner charger even better. I would put the most of that down to a discharged battery. The 12.7 you measured is a sign that it probably will take a charge again as the alt pulled it back up.

Welcome to the group. Clutch - Some say they do seem hi, but as i have the z and a 308 (same thing), they both have same bit point, think its just a case of getting used to, unless its really high. At 42k there shouldn’t be any issue with the clutch unless its been….. Head unit - I have an...

I used the stuff below to assist when flushing, descaling etc, think I sort of listed out before, but two extension hoses on the matrix to raise things up a bit for access, funnel in one, pour some of the mixed GAT in let sit 15m, blow out with garden hose, repeat a few times and it really did...

It’s possible one of you engine temperature sensors is faulty, or the split loom for the temp sensors has a wire that is chaffed through earthing down and pulling you canbus communications out. if you can find your way to the thermostat housing and locate the temp sensor on it then follow along...

Ah you’ll miss the wee beep at 10miles. Glad your sorted.

Your mech might prefer to get the parts, after all if you’re expecting him to stand over the job he might want an input on where they are from. Also that little bit of discount he gets makes towards his wage. If you are getting the thermo housing redone, ask is the cross pipe being done also...

Have you stopped overheating?

Sound box cover, not essential but finishes things off. Just like the engine undertrays some mechs don’t like and leave off.

I’ll try and write up a bit when I get into work this evening. But for info, the happy RCZ temp is 90 static, not above or below, so something amiss.

Petrol? 156/200/270 Bhp? Mileage? On original timing chain? Based on a 156 petrol; can also be a fault with the vanos not pulling forward correctly, vanos gear faulty or vanos solenoid faulty and can be a result of poor servicing regime and these fouled with mucky oil sludge. Flushing can help...