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Greetings From New Zealand !

NZMotorsport

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Hi , well I have just joined this forum , so it would be rude not to say Hi from here in New Zealand . I've just bought a white 2014 RCZ 200horse turbo ( petrol ) automatic . I must admit I have close on 50 cars , most are modified . Hell , even my humble motor home has a Viper V10 and auto ( on LPG ) in place of the dirty diesel , I have a few race cars , lots of AMGs , M series , RS's , an older Lancia coupe , a couple of Minis ( including a genuine JCW that is now past 350 horse ) , a Beetle turbo , a PT cruiser , 3 Nissan S Cargos , including 1 with a rear mounted 3.6 turbo Posche motor , a Minor Traveller widened and lengthened over an early 2000's ML500 chassis and drivetrain .

Anyway , this is my first Peugeot . Basic plans at this stage are to do a DTM trubute -- 22" wheels , deeper front skirt , rear diffuser , wide body guards , lowered a couple of inches , mildish engine mods . I own half of a race car and performance car business , so we have some good contacts and inhouse skills , so it will be a fun project !

Are there any other New Zealanders here ? I believe there are may only be 25 RCZ's still road registered in New Zealand , although sometimes our countries computer registers aren't always accurate -- there are currently 4 listed for sale online , so hard to believe that nearly 20% are for sale ?

Thanks
 

NZMotorsport

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Cheers Apple . I don't think mine is an R version , in fact I suspect we only got the one mid-range 200 horse turbo version here , and I suspect they were all automatic . I have seen 1 manual one , but it was 'privately' imported from England .

Our modified vehicle rules here seem to be a bit less restrictive compared to you Australians -- if it is done logically and safely then it is fine -- I am hoping to run 22 x 10.5" front wheels and 12" wide rears ( yes , I know it is front drive , but it's gotta look the part ! ) , with appropriate low profile tyres -- that will need wheel extensions or flared arches ( and checking that theres no rubbing or scrubbing -- offsets need to be sensible too ) . I suspect those mods simply wouldn't be allowed in Australia , for example . But to expand on that -- if the suspension is stiffened , bigger brakes added , 22's added , but the car is then lowered 2" or so so that the body is back to approx original clearance , it will grip better , handle better and stop better , so as long as you use 'solid' suspension components , as opposed to welding tie-rods together or similar , it is likely to be okayed .

Similarly , engine and power mods are allowed , especially if combined with bigger brakes and better handling . Engine swaps are allowed under some circumstances , but on this RCZ I can't see much benefit . I assume the same period Peugeot V6 could be made to fit , but it would presumably have fitment and/or mounting hassles , probably need an aftermarket computer , then more fun if you wanted a turbo or two -- a lot of $$$ and aggro for the end result IMO . $2k for a custom manifold and bigger turbo and injectors sounds fun -- $15k for an engine swap not so much so .
 

NZMotorsport

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Cool -- I am in Hamilton , there are at least 2 other RCZ's around here . Mine is at about 92k's , I am tempted to pull the engine , do the tensioners and chain , and replace all the plastic bits with metal ( water pump , thermostat housing , crossover pipe , etc ) , assuming they are all similar to R55 Mini parts . A mate of mine is an absolute turbo wizard , he recommends a 45mm impellar in a machined 42mm housing , bigger injectors and a brand name BOV , and either a more tunable aftermarket computer , or play with the Peugeot one . If I'm going that far ( its 98% likely ) I like to add braided lines , an alloy catch can , basically look a bit more race orientated under the bonnet . I've done several 280 horse Minis , and the GT RCZ's seem up there too , so I'm pretty confident I can get that reliably from the RCZ . Not much point getting 400 horse if you have to rebuild it every 10,000kms !
 

RCZ-mad

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Cool -- I am in Hamilton , there are at least 2 other RCZ's around here . Mine is at about 92k's , I am tempted to pull the engine , do the tensioners and chain , and replace all the plastic bits with metal ( water pump , thermostat housing , crossover pipe , etc ) , assuming they are all similar to R55 Mini parts . A mate of mine is an absolute turbo wizard , he recommends a 45mm impellar in a machined 42mm housing , bigger injectors and a brand name BOV , and either a more tunable aftermarket computer , or play with the Peugeot one . If I'm going that far ( its 98% likely ) I like to add braided lines , an alloy catch can , basically look a bit more race orientated under the bonnet . I've done several 280 horse Minis , and the GT RCZ's seem up there too , so I'm pretty confident I can get that reliably from the RCZ . Not much point getting 400 horse if you have to rebuild it every 10,000kms !
Hey bud, I notice you have the 200hp auto, so if you're planning on giving it a decent amount more horsepower, just be aware that the auto trans is rated for a maximum of 300nm. The 200hp engine is already pumping out around 275nm so that doesn't give you much room to increase it.

There is probably some work you can do to strengthen the auto transmission but I haven't looked into it that far, I just know the base stats. You can find plenty of info about the transmission around Google, but here's an article from 2010 which mentions it - Peugeot introduces new AT6 6-speed auto - paultan.org
 

NZMotorsport

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Thanks . I guess like a lot of people who like modifying vehicles , step one is to see how long until I break something ! In my younger days , I had modified STI Subarus and RS Audis -- in both brands , I would do a lot more damage to axles , diffs , centre diffs , CVs , gearboxes , etc -- more than I did to engines .
My basic understanding of the dark art of automagic boxes is , once they break , add heavier clutch packs and up the line pressure , combined with flashing the computer to sharpen the change while also limiting the torque ( advancing the timing curve and dumping turbo pressure ) on changes .
This will be a toy car , the big DTM style body kit and wheels , and modified mechanicals , probably 2000ks a year .
 

RCZ-mad

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Thanks . I guess like a lot of people who like modifying vehicles , step one is to see how long until I break something ! In my younger days , I had modified STI Subarus and RS Audis -- in both brands , I would do a lot more damage to axles , diffs , centre diffs , CVs , gearboxes , etc -- more than I did to engines .
My basic understanding of the dark art of automagic boxes is , once they break , add heavier clutch packs and up the line pressure , combined with flashing the computer to sharpen the change while also limiting the torque ( advancing the timing curve and dumping turbo pressure ) on changes .
This will be a toy car , the big DTM style body kit and wheels , and modified mechanicals , probably 2000ks a year .
Yeah all that stuff you mentioned should make it able to handle the extra power, but HOW to do that specifically with that box is the question.

The box is Aisin AT6 so a decent manufacturer and its in a fair few cars so I would of assumed someone somewhere would of done this type of upgrade work before, but after a quick search, nothing is coming up so you might need to really take some time to look for some info.
 
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