Smoke after idling = valve stem seals?

[Valex]

Hi,

before the last oil change I used the Liqui Moly Engine Flush Plus and after that I started to have higher oil consumption and a lot of smoke after idling.
With the motor cold, it is is fine, no smoke but with the motor hot I'm almost scary to stop somewhere because I know what is going to happen when I will give gas .

I removed also the second oil catcher (the one on the back of the rocker cover) but I have still the one on the turbo side. I removed it because I installed it on the same period of the oil change so I was thinking that maybe could be related to the issue. But looks to me the same.

Could be that the oil flush cleaned too much the valve steam seals and now the oil draw into the cylinders?
Some experience with this problem?

Any possibility that could be just the PCV valve? The motor has 120.000 Km.

 

[Nemi]

I have a similar issue. After the last oil change, my RCZ started to produce a lot of white/blueish smoke after idling (only when the engine is hot). It is very annoying in traffic jams, I leave everyone in a huge cloud of smoke. My mileage is 150.000 km.

I am also suspecting valve stem seals.

 

[Flanners]

Or the turbo.

 

[Nemi]

Or the turbo.

In my case, the turbo was rebuilt recently

Just called my Peugeot dealership and asked how much would it cost to replace valve stem seals... More than 1000 Eur White smoke started when they changed the oil to 0W-30 and suggested next time to use 5W-30.

 

[Pedro]

Walnut blasting should eradicate the problem its carbon build up it plagues all direct injection engines as fuel doesn't wash over the valves as per indirect fuel systems do but on the Princes & a whole generation of new Engine designs its jetted directly into the chambers which gives better & faster detonation but on the downside causes more carbon around the valve seats
As for high mileage its no good using 0W.30 as it will give little protection once it loses viscosity unlike 5W.30 which has a longer service life

 

[Valex]

Walnut blasting should eradicate the problem its carbon build up it plagues all direct injection engines as fuel doesn't wash over the valves as per indirect fuel systems do but on the Princes & a whole generation of new Engine designs its jetted directly into the chambers which gives better & faster detonation but on the downside causes more carbon around the valve seats
As for high mileage its no good using 0W.30 as it will give little protection once it loses viscosity unlike 5W.30 which has a longer service life

Just the walnut blasting? I really hope that it is just that. I found in other forums (Mini and Peugeut/Citroen with the same 1.6 THP motor) that the valve steam seals start "cook" and drying after some time and the oil start draw .

 

[Pedro]

The seals do deteriorate after high mileage but I've seen posts that say the same thing but it was carbon as the main problem but as you rightly point out the seals can harden over time & the valves will not be sealed properly so whoever does the work will advise you of this issue assuming they know what their doing ?

 

[Valex]

Thank you Pedro. When possible I will take a look with an endoscope camera.
In case, I found a Mini specialist that should do the job (valve steam seals replacement) for 700 Euro, without removing the cylinder head. They pressurize the cylinder so the valves stay close.

 

[NF7]

Try the new oil first. Put 5W-30 in. Then drive for couple hundred km to see. Before doing valve stem seals, try the cheaper options before (no point checking the turbo, since you already did it).

Mine also started producing more white smoke during traffic jams. No oil smell or anything. Just white smoke. Oil consumption is the same as it was before. I did the walnut blasting - no change. I changed the PCV Valve - no change.

Also bear in mind, its getting colder and more humid and the THP engines produce a lot of heat. So you could just be seeing condensation.

Most cars I see in the traffic jams during my morning commute produce some type of white smoke. Its impossible that all have issues

 

[Pedro]

Usually its condensate from the Engine warming up from cold I have quad exhausts & in the mirror it looks like its a steam engine when standing in traffic

 

[NF7]

Usually its condensate from the Engine warming up from cold I have quad exhausts & in the mirror it looks like its a steam engine when standing in traffic

Same here, but only one one side since no Quads yet.

 

[Valex]

I'm already using the Total ineo ECS 5W30, never tried the 0W30.

When I bought the car, I found an old receive from the previous owner, that one time a garage used the 10W40

Today, going at work and back, 80 Km, 90% highway, and no smoke at all. Also when the car/oil is cold there is no smoke. It is just when the motor is hot and I stop for more than a minute in the traffic or wait at the traffic light. This motor just like 2000 + RPM .

 

[NF7]

I'm already using the Total ineo ECS 5W30, never tried the 0W30.

When I bought the car, I found an old receive from the previous owner, that one time a garage used the 10W40

Today, going at work and back, 80 Km, 90% highway, and no smoke at all. Also when the car/oil is cold there is no smoke. It is just when the motor is hot and I stop for more than a minute in the traffic or wait at the traffic light. This motor just like 2000 + RPM .

The dealer in my country is using 5w40 for higher than 100k km RCZ.

 

[Nemi]

I also had a talk with a guy from Peugeot dealership and he suggested trying 5W-40 because my mileage is higher and I drive more aggressively.

 

[Flanners]

My take on this would be that swopping from 0w30 to 5w30 offers little benefit whatsoever for the OP's situation or higher mileage or running temps; given the first number is the viscosity of the oil when 'cold'. Putting a 40 weight/high mileage oil in could possibly offer some benefit for track/hard use high mileage etc and issues with seals etc.

Frequent oil changes from new and throughout the life of the car is the best option with the recommended oil every 2-4000 miles max especially with the THP lump. Mine is every 1000-1500miles as that is the annual service for the warranty/stamp.

 

[NF7]

How logical is to replace timing chain at the same time you replace the valve stem seals? As I understand, you have to take it out either way as you have to remove the cams.

The car is on 120k with the original timing chain.

 

[Pedro]

Hi,

before the last oil change I used the Liqui Moly Engine Flush Plus and after that I started to have higher oil consumption and a lot of smoke after idling.
With the motor cold, it is is fine, no smoke but with the motor hot I'm almost scary to stop somewhere because I know what is going to happen when I will give gas .

I removed also the second oil catcher (the one on the back of the rocker cover) but I have still the one on the turbo side. I removed it because I installed it on the same period of the oil change so I was thinking that maybe could be related to the issue. But looks to me the same.

Could be that the oil flush cleaned too much the valve steam seals and now the oil draw into the cylinders?
Some experience with this problem?

Any possibility that could be just the PCV valve? The motor has 120.000 Km.

I would never use flushing oil all its does is wash the residues out of the engine & maybe fined d a few weak seals in the process?

 

[Valex]

I would never use flushing oil all its does is wash the residues out of the engine & maybe fined d a few weak seals in the process?

First and last time that I use it .

 

[NF7]

First and last time that I use it .

Did you already replace the valve stem seals?

 

[Valex]

Did you already replace the valve stem seals?

No, as I wrote, I use the car 99% on the highway (~80km/day), and there I don't see smoke at all. I will try first with the 5W40 oil but I have still one new 5L can of 5W30 and another one open that I use for topping up between the oil changes.